Wow, and Wow! Thanks, finally ffb is alive in my SC2 pro
new hotfix today, ffb seems to be good again as it was before 0.9.6
Hello, I have just installed AMS2 and I cant get any feedback at all. I managed to calibrate the wheel fine as a custom wheel (and there was plenty of resistive spring force when I was calibrating it).
I have true drive set to 50% for strength and in game strength at 100 and there is zero force, same as having the e-stop pushed (which it isnt). I also tried installing the custom feedback file, but still zero FFB or resistance of any sort in game. Any ideas?
@NielsHeusinkveld hi Niels, just saw your yt video about ams2.
could you please share both your ingame and true drive ffb settings?
thank you very much.
Im using these settings but I cant steer in the game.
When I want to calibrate the wheel its very heavy to turn the SC2.
Can someone explain this?
Press emergency button for easy turning in calibration.
I finally got my Simucube 2 in the mail and got it bolted onto my rig. I can’t assign steering axis in AMS2 and in RRRE the FFB is odd.
Can someone just TL,DR thousands of posts and tell me succinctly what I need to do to feel $2500 worth of FFB I just paid for?
It would be lovely if someone from Simucube themselves made it easy as you guys are speaking a different language. There is so much baked in assumptions about what people know you guys are talking about, where to make the changes, how FFB files work or are overwritten, etc.
Please, please help make this simple!
EDIT: Finally got steering input after changing to very low rotation and using Emergency Stop to kill FFB. However, in-game there is a grinding noise and heavy oscillation not present in RRRE.
have you turned on high torque mode?
I have, yes. For AMS2, I got some FFB working but it’s pretty vague and light but in high speed corners it loads up tremendously and also beeps when it’s really loaded up. Maybe clipping?
Also, can I say I was glad when I saw it was you that replied. You seemed like you had found some good settings. Would you be willing to share the full settings you have for both True Drive and AMS2 in-game? Ideally I wouldn’t be messing with custom FFB files as I don’t really understand how to make that work in-game.
Lastly, it seems like setting strength in the True Drive software to, say, 5Nm doesn’t really mean anything. In-game both RRRE and AMS2 if set to 100% is still REALLY strong so it seems like the True Drive settings don’t mean anything? I figured if I set True Drive strength to 50% and then in-game to 100% I’d be getting 50%. If I set True Drive to 50% and in-game to 50% I’d be getting 25%. Half and then half again, right? But that doesn’t seem to be the case at all.
I’ll share my settings asap.
True Drive max force setting lets you set the Nm expressed by the motor, the % of ffb you set ingame is a whole different thing.
think of that as a fraction in which numerator is the game % of ffb and denominator the wheel force in Nm : if you set the motor force too low and the game ffb too high, it will obviously clip because the game is asking to the motor more power than it can produce.
general rule is to keep True Drive at 100% and set the ffb into the game at the level you are comfortable with. in AMS2 for example I have True Drive at 100% which corresponds to 17.1Nm for my SC2 Sport and ingame ffb at 45%. if you do the opposite though, like I think you did, you will just get clipping signal.
the Nm in True Drive actually means everything as you can see…which would be the sense in having 3 different Sc2 models each with a different peaque of Nm?
Thank You for the quick reply! Personally, I love the idea of keeping things as minimal as possible in software and then doing all the tweaking in-game. This is how my lowly G27 worked so I never had to worry about Logitech software.
I believe you play RRRE as well. Do you use similar True Drive settings for that game? What’s been confusing thus far is how incredibly different not only each game is to each other but when I seek consensus for True Drive vs. in-game settings things seem all over the board. Three different people say the game feels great but both their TD and in-game settings vary wildly from each other.
Also, if I’m abusing this thread we can take this to private messages. Thank you for the help thus far!
answered with private message
I’ve found that adding Inertia (10-15%) on TrueDrive really helps to reduce the “bouncy” feeling I’ve had with AMS2.
general rule is to keep True Drive at 100% and set the ffb into the game at the level you are comfortable with.
I’ve been receiving conflicting information on this. A few (who I consider well in the know) people have suggested using the TD strength as the absolute max you want to experience. Would it really clip, as long as the in game/sim gain is at or below 100%? So far it’s been making a lot of sense for me to set TD strength to about 9-12Nm and then in sim have gain at around 50-75% depending on the the title or car. Of course sometimes I use higher for fun/workout, but normally I tend to go for the IRL car feel.
Anyway, so currently I have no reason to think TD strength would have anything to do with clipping. I look at it like an audio mixing desk. TD would be my master gain, and the sim would be the individual channel gain. If the signal was to clip, it would be because the game/sim clips. Not correct?
You are right, it wouldn’t clip as long as your set the in-game FFB correctly. Setting up the True Drive strength always to 100% is bad and dangerous thing to do - one should always consider safety before anything else.
is it bad just for safety reasons or also for the motor itself?
Making wheelbase with powerful motor is bad for safety. Yet here we are.
my new profile for AMS2 (Sc2 Sport). best settings I tried so far.
ingame I only use gain at 60%, no low boost and no effects.
AMS2 new_2020.08.02_19.28.ini.txt (877 Bytes)
(tested with P1 @ Hockenheim and Stock Cars @ Interlagos)
Has anyone else been experiencing the what I would consider excessive road feel in AMS2? I noticed a post about it further above, but didn’t end up with a fix. I tried the then recommended custom FFB settings file from Reiza forums, but imo this made the problem even worse (the effect more amplified). Maybe I got the wrong file…
It’s as if I’m driving over a rumble strip at about 300kmh, except I’m actually on the black part of the track at around 100kmh. I definitely do want road feel/effect, but as is, I’m getting just a very high pitch, disturbing vibration. It’s also making my SC2 Pro emit a bit of sound similar to the audio notifications (very subtle though). Some cars better than others, but the worst offender I tested with so far is the newer Dallara F3 car at Hockenheim. Taking the same thing to somewhere like Ibarra and I can’t drive at all. Then it’s like racing on cobblestone.
Tbh I would be happy with the default FFB settings in AMS2 if I could just only reduce that vibration. Only I’m not sure if it’s about reduction in “volume” or reduction in “pitch” that is needed.
I’ve got a 100% fresh install of PC and AMS2 couple weeks ago, FFB gain at 50, LFB 0, FX 0. TrueDrive settings very minimal, with strength at 48% (12Nm), Recon 5, Damping 20%, Friction 15%, DIFX off.