Posted on RD but might as well here too:
Here’s mine, just rebased tonight after watching Mike’s ffb tuning video. Tuned on the C8R. It’s a first pass, not saying it’s great.
I played for months with just 52 Gain and zero everything else in-game and I thought the ffb was very good (same SC2 TD default profile in the images attached).
Mate Mike got it totally wrong on the Custom file ingame settings. LFB and Damping sliders work differently than in the Default and control different things. Read the text on the file and you will understand. LFB and Damping must be used with the custom file as it was designed like that. There is a balance between Gain and Damping (powersteering) and LFB controls basically the return speed of the wheel. Your TD settings are ok (not sure if the DI play a role, i would put everything to 0 though). My suggestion for the custom is to use gain around 30-35, lfb 5-15, fx 32, damping 5-15.
I did vaguely recall something like that. I’ll go back for another round of tuning and see if it can be better.
Well listen if it works well with you and you prefer it, that is absolutely fine. I am just telling you more or less the settings (on our SC2 pros) that we mostly considered while developing/tuing and adjusting the file. Of course everything is subjective.
Is there some authoritative SC2P settings in this thread or elsewhere?
Okay, I just tried LFB and Damping in Default FFB and Custom Rfuktor 4.4 and I see little to no benefit from them. They’re just meant to reduce strength in cornering and/or emulate power steering? Something like Static Force Reduction? I didn’t like the experience and it took away detail from road feel in cornering.
I don’t think Mike did anything wrong except maybe he didn’t know how they behaved. I suspect at these low overall force strengths LFB and Damper become unnecessary if you have the right proportions of the others.
Tbh i don’t remember how it was on 4.4 file, there have been many iterations after that. So i can give you the overall principle. Regarding Damping i think with the previous files (i.e. 4.4) in some cars i could use 0. It is not like SFR. SFR is preset in the file already. Also they do not interfere at all with the roadfeel. Maybe you are losing roadfeel if you are low in gain, so you can up the gain and put some damping as well. I have seen people using high values in damping (but this is not my cup of tea). If the wheel is getting too strong for you in some cases/cars, just up the damping. However the LFB is a different case, it controls the centering. If you set it too high the wheel might become hyperactive. If you find your self in situations where you cant catch slides then up this slider. Setting it at 0 the wheel is more relaxed/sluggish. Also in some iterations this contributed to stronger center (again not sure what was the case on 4.4).
Mike explained how sliders operate. He should have treated LFB and Damping seperately for the custom and the default as obviously he created some confusion. Gain might be related to Damping, LFB and FX are irrelevant. As said, the custom files are not intended to be used with LFB and Damping 0 as they were balanced with the values i have previously suggested, however if you are happy with your settings no worries.
Yep, I find that if you don’t use especially the damping, the wheel tends to have a strong counter-spring /whiplash effect back to Center.
I am running gain at 45%, LFX at 10%, FX 20 and damping 10%.
On top of that, I use Recon Filter 1 in TD, but then Damping 12, Friction 10, Inertia 10, due to the size ‘torque of my servo. That is good enough for no oscillation with Bruteforce, whilst still giving me all the detail I could want.
But the VR is another story, need to sort that out, as it is a bit of a stutter-fest, even on my 5900X/3090 setup. Need to dive into that a bit, will see what tomorrow brings.
Have a good one, Boys.
Beano.
With what headset? 8700/3090 and its just like Pcars. No stutters at all with the RiftS.
Reverb G2, it’s quite demanding due to high resolution. First time that I had some nausea after 30min in the sim. Stutters just did me in, causing some mess-up in my visual cortex, wasn’t pleasant.
But had to test the ffb in AMS2 again, as I am having a bit of a chat with the guys over at iRacing about ffb update rates et al. Tyre-model in AMS2 definitely needs work, as it is pretty soft and rolls over the sidewalls to much, but the ffb in itself, feels a lot more communicative than iRacing’s.
I could also significantly reduce filtering and still managed to control oscillations, which was expected, but still good to feel. Hopefully AMS2 will eveolve the physics and tyre model to much better levels, at that point I will most likely move over to it. A bit tired that everyone is finding all the reasons and excuses why they should not update iRacing’s ffb rate, there are huge benefits to be had from both user and dd wheel ‘filtering perspective.
I hate to be told that I cannot feel the difference between 60hz and 360hz and all the reasons for why I can’t feel it, when I can 10/10 very clearly tell when I am using native 60hz vs iRFFB 360hz.
But there is so much more to it, looking from a FW and wheel-behaviour aspect. Sigh. Time for me to move on I think.
Anyone that says you cant feel the hz difference has something seriously wrong. ACC was a perfect example of that in the early release. I complained the ffb was absolutely horrible on my Ultimate and of course was told everything is perfect and its my setting or me. It was so bad i just stopped even trying to make it work. Then magically after release they raised the hz quite a bit(you can find it in the update notes) and suddenly the ffb was decent. But you cant feel it…
I’ll be very curious to see where you end up with both graphics settings and FFB settings as things progress. I have an HP G2 as well. Runs great in 60Hz mode, but still searching for optimum 90Hz settings. I agree that AMS2 still has some work to do on tire model/physics.
Does everyone else still get crazy oscillations when letting go of the wheel while on a straight for example? Just wondering…
I experienced that when I first tried the game and found that setting the Ultra Low Latency between 5% - 10% helped to settle things down.
Due to the nature of ffb setpoint signal being sent to the wheel, there will always be oscillation if you are not use a bit of Damping, Friction and Inertia. No getting away from that. Lower ffb frequencies, like the 60hz in iRacing, Will cause slower, faster, higher amplitude oscillations, which will require more filtering to stabilise.
High ffb rates like 360hz in AMS2, will cause higher frequency/faster, but lower amplitude oscillations, requiring less DFI to eliminate. Of course, ultimate filter-settings will also depend on the final torque you usually run ffb at…higher torque-levels Will of course also requiremhigher filtering to control oscillations.
Unless sim is using Gyro (Dynamic Damping (not real DI Damping)) like Kunos titles and recent revision of R3E FFB.
Custom RFuktor FFB profile for AMS2 does not require any damping either.
Dynamic Damping in AMS2 was supposed to work the same way as in other titles mentioned, but Reiza broke it in one of their countless FFB revisions and it doesn’t seem to be working at all recently.
So there shouldn’t be any oscillations with rFuktor file? That’s what I’ve been using and still have crazy oscillations 
Which file? Which cars? Which settings?
Not that it makes a huge difference but Im pretty sure AMS 2 is over 500mhz. If im remembering everything correctly PC1 and 2 where 500hz and Reiza went higher then that for AMS2.
