My suggestion is to use the weight of the wheel that feels best to you… but to try to make sure you are getting fill telemetry… Which as far as I know which the AC model is to run less than 100% in game and probably significantly less if you are running LM type cars based on what I understand is how they set up the output, I haven’t done research into it so someone else may know better as to when a 100% output signal from AC/ACC occurs…
Regarding the forces at the wheel as I said those are for the most part controlled by the game as if the Game outputs a 100% signal then if you have your wheel set to give you 20Nm it will give you 20Nm if you have it set to give you 5Nm then it will give you 5Nm at that 100%.
iRacing works things differently as when in Linear/Nm mode You are the one that sets where the 100% point for the game falls in the telemetry spectrum so if you set the slider to 75Nm then 75Nm of telemetry = 100% if you set the slider to 30Nm then 30Nm of telemetry =100% to the game.
Now to if certain outputs are realistic… They are BUT and this is a big BUT… what we feel at the wheel also has to do with acceleration or the wheel, timing, yes the accuracy of the cars digital model (including the tire model)… FFB from games is not always timed exactly correctly whether at 60Hz or 360Hz or 2000Hz which is part of why we end up with oscillations as the wheel is always going to be slightly behind the game at the minimum. as well these wheels SPIN way faster than the wheel of a real car which means that the implementation of force will make the wheel move quicker which causes us as humans to feel that force more pronounced than if everything else were equal. This is the area where getting proper Filter settings really helps… i.e. if you are using a Small Mige with no filtering then you have it at its most active state which can get VERY VERY brutal at higher powers… it needs to be tamed back to reality through the drive filtering, so just turning up the power and having it feel perfect is NOT really an option (you have to play with settings). Then there is the Tire and Car models used in game. Unless everything is perfect (including the timing) everywhere they will not mimic the real thing exactly… In talking with the guys developing at iRacing one of their biggest issues is the Tires as NO tire manufacturer offers up any data regarding the performance of their tires (they are very secretive). Therefore iRacing (and other game companies) have to choose a tire model that they feel will work… thing is Tires are one of the Biggest factors in a cars handling (ie you can take a car that will only corner at .7G’s in real life well over 1G JUST by changing the tires). In addition different compounds and construction of tires can greatly affect whether you have really good off-center response or whether the car just feels sluggish. That tire that feels sluggish could have 4x more grip mid corner than the responsive tire but it doesn’t feel good when turning into the corner. This is why your Daily driver car feels different if you get different brands or levels of tires when you replace them.
So basically the simulation will never be EXACTLY like real life… they get as close as they can in dynamics but there will always be differences. So in the end just try to maximize the Range of feedback that the wheel receives and then once that is done adjust the power at the wheel. Then if you feel you need more power at the wheel you will have to compromise the Range.
For iRacing the Maximum Range is having the iRacing slider at about 60 - 65 Nm
Personally I run 47Nm in iRacing with a Large Mige at 25A 100% - which equates to just under .6:1 Specific Output (power out : telemetry in)
Saw you in the Fanatec Podium launch video -always great to put a face to the name.
It was interesting to hear your (and Bernhard’s) feedback that essentially the differences between SimuCUBE and the DD1 were minimal - the Accuforce being notably less impressive due to it’s much weaker forces.
Were you able to articulate where you felt the Fanatec/SimuCUBE were different, and if one was objectively better in one area or another?
Not that I would buy a Podium series, like many I am more interested in hearing more about their software implementation of different ‘profiles’ for different SIM titles.
Hopefully we can learn more about anything they might be doing well that could be replicated with SimuCUBE software.
I wonder also if Thomas has been in touch with iRacing or Kunos to better optimize his Podium series products? It would only make sense given he is looking to bring DD to the masses and these are the places where a DD wheel is most likely to sell.
I know that Mika has not felt any benefit in opening up discussions with iRacing, but Thomas being Thomas, he will be looking to find any options to differentiate and sell his Podium wheel in both SIM communities.
Fanatec has more to learn from “us” than we from them. ACC’s FFB is still really a mess.
Fanatec’s DD will have less settings and much more signal filtering and damping built in that you can’t change and is hidden. and that is good for people who have no clue or experience with DD wheels. and that will be the reason why it feels smoother than a simucube with too low rcon filter.
i can guarantee you there wont be a reconstruction filter 0 or 1 on that fanatec DD because people will start to think they have a broken wheel because of the signals the games produce are so spikey and notchy. feedback doesn’t feel like that in real life anyway.
Part of the issue between the Fanatec Software and the SimuCUBE right now is that Fanatec is still working on the filtering so from what we were able to play with things could change… Infact they really didn’t want up to play with the Damping since the algorithms were unstable at certain levels.
For me I prefer the level of control over the servo that you can find with the SimuCUBE as Fanatec is trying to keep their same terminology and methodology they have used with all their wheels as far as settings which for me makes somethings a bit confusing such as to add friction you turn down drift mode (huh?) I guess if I used it for a long time I would get it… Thomas has hinted at the possibility of a Expert setting mode with more control but as with most things Fanatec I do tent to believe it when I see it.
As for the Quantifiable difference in the feel there is not WHEN they are set-up to feel similar BUT the SimuCUBE allows you to escape that currently pretty specific feel and go to something either more active or More dull. as for the Smoothness and general responsiveness they are right on par with each other… The Accuforce since you mentioned it does have the Power deficit but it isn’t ONLY the power that is an issue, The Software at times can become to me a little overbearing and because I set it up with some Foundation Feedback, Which after the fact I found out in not all that common, I could feel were the software was trying to maximize the range… So for me after using it a bit longer the Accuforce relies MORE on SimComander than the simuCUBE or even the Fanatec does which means it will feel good but it will never quite have that not messed with feeling.
As for different Profiles for Different sims, they really didn’t have anything specific out there so I can’t comment on whether they have found anything… The Only thing that I caught onto while driving that initially they didn’t want to confirm but kind of said yea its OK is that they do have some sort of variable Damping system they are working on which was immediately noticeable to me when running a DD2 at Max power settings 1:1 with at the DW12 as the wheel didn’t get out of control as easily through oscillation on the straight at the Glen. It still showed Oscillation but it wasn’t as bad as it would be normally at that sort of power.
From what I understand Most of the developers basically tell the companies that make peripherals her his how we do it and then you have to figure out if you need to adjust your wheel or game pad from there… Which means they don’t want to make adjustments for a certain wheel or device… Which makes sense in reality… I am not sure if Thomas has any more clout given the size of the company but if there is an improvement made for the Fanatec DD’s more than likely that improvement will help every other DD as well.
its much better now on DD wheel ACC 0.2.0
Turn off the dynamic damping too 0% in the ffb options in acc;) (new option since this build)
and dont use direct input effects;)
42 gain ingame i would advise and 100% strength in simucube and 1%damping 1%friction and 4 % inertia and rcon 8 and 100% strength on my small mige 12.86 A
it finally drives properly now, also you can lower the fov even more finally and its possible to look down a bit with pitch. so we can get better fovs
For me the inputs were too harsh. And the vr user experience was totally bad. The main menu screen was on the bottom of the screen. During the driving it was ok but the menu was awful
Fanatec wheels do. You can always map buttons if you have enough of them. But I wouldnt bother VR needs a lot of work. Just wait till they add keyboard support, by then VR may be acceptable.
I’m using similar settings to those of SKeijmel although, I prefer RF of 6 so I can retain more detail but, it still has a nice rubbery-quality. I also tested with the AccuForce and both systems need a lot of smoothening applied to ACC FFB compared to other titles or even, AC.
Overall, the ability to adjust the ACC Dynamic Dampening was needed imo. I like some road-bump detail in my FFB (feels like my RL truck steering ) Personally, I hope Kunos adds the option for Tire-slip effects (ideally, with a frequency adjustment) to provide some under-steer cue.
Some recent time in Autocross (RL) provided me experience in 2 different cars and both had strong vibrations in the wheel and chassis during under-steer. I know, not all cars / tires produce that result but, these cars did in a big way. The tires were performance street tires of a softer compound on cold damp pavement but, the vibrations were excellent indicators of front grip-loss.
You can map any button you want as controls (under options, it’s the UI ‘tab’ [that aren’t really tabs]), not just a d-pad. Initially I mapped a couple buttons for left/right and shifters as forward/back (the functional equivalent of accept/cancel), but that seemed to cause issues in actual driving. Re-mapped forward/back to a other spare buttons and it’s ok enough. Bit clunky, but I can get into the car and drive.
Thanks @Cynical_Owl I’ve done that for Dirt Rally, using the two rotary encoders with push buttons on my wheel for left/right; up/down, enter and esc. Quite intuitive once set up, so hopefully will work the same with ACC.
Just curious about what you guys have the gain in ACC set to if you are running the wheel at 100 with a big mige. I have to run it a lot lower then I do I any other sim.
Because all of the other ones still make it feel notchy when turning the wheel.
this video explains it all https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0KFEn6QB_0o i know its iracing but the information stays the same.
even with a 400hz ffb rate in rf2 you still need rcon 8 to have totally smooth steering
because of the signals the games produce are so spikey and notchy. feedback doesn’t feel like that in real life anyway.
and rcon 8 and 100% strength on my small mige 12.86 A