I’m in SC1 so I translated his settings to SC1 and in AC they’re fantastic for me. Sadly, I can’t come close to the same front end feel on ACC whatsoever. As a “front end” driver, I need that.
I tried this setting already, its pretty good! When my car gets over the kerb, maybe there is frequent telemantary(?), it will cause TD force quit and restart automatically.
First time I had an issue with the game today. It’s a strange one and only seems to happen if I select Silverstone as the circuit.
When I start any session and move away from a standstill, the wheel needs to be turned approximately 180 degrees to the left in order to drive in a straight line. There is no pulling or anything like that but it’s as if the rotation of the real rim goes 180 out of sync from the in game wheel.
If I select a different circuit everything seems ok and lines up.
Feels like a game related bug to me rather than TD but I wanted to check if this has happened to anybody else?
Hi Paul
Just did a quick test at silverstone with the Bentley… no problem with the wheel …no out of sync
Maybe try another car?
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Thanks mate. I thought it might be a corrupted setup file and swapped to one of the presets. Still no luck with the Bentley so I’ll swap to another car.
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Hi Paul
Let me know if a new car is ok …If not maybe the track file is corrupted. Just guessing ?..Maybe delete the track and download again to make sure …Good luck
Regards Denis
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I have to take back what I said in my last post. It did turn out to be a corrupted setup file for the Bentley on that particular circuit.
Before deleting it I had to drive like this to go in a straight line 
All ok now. Thanks for the assistance, Dennis 
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What does Reconstruction do?
Seen a lot of profiles with force set to 100%, I’m assuming this is then adjusted in game to a lower setting?
The user guide explains reconstruction much better than I could:
This filter smooths out low update rate torque signal from the simulator to the maximum possible
rate while making the changes between simulator torque updates smooth. The filter predicts
torque behavior. Low filters values are reactive also when torque rate or direction changes
quickly, but some of the original notchyness from the low frequency remains in the signal. Higher
values are smoother, but the torque peaks might overshoot compared to the signal that the
simulator produces. This due to the predictive algorithm. Typically, in constant torque modes or
in typical driving conditions, there is no apparent lag, and the filter just makes the wheel feel more
rubbery towards the higher values.
With regards to the strength, I run 100% in TD and use a lower in game gain, somewhere around 40%. There’s no hard and fast rule though. You could do it the other way around if you chose to.
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There is User Guide, a must read for any SC2 user, covers basic things like your question, safety instruction etc.
I jumped the fence and finally got ACC for myself. On first impression I have to say the FFB is actually quite decent, after it was widely reported it’s hot garbage.
On the Benz AMG GT3 everything was smooth sailing, using a slightly modified AC profile. However, when I jumped into the Lambo in career mode I could always feel a very subtle force/vibration when going straight. It’s quite annoying, tbh.
Anyone experienced something similar and found a fix?
Edit: After twiddling with it a bit more, setting the torque bandwidth limit to 100Hz removes most of the vibration. It’s still, ever so slightly, there, though.
Check if this helps.
And drop these Road Effects to 0.
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Thanks! You can see these vibrations in the little “FF” meter in the HUD. I dialed them out with setting RECON to 4 (which I usually avoid like the plague in other sims) and Torque Bandwidth Limit to 100Hz.
But playing a little more, I definitely noticed the missing feel for understeer. Otherwise FFB feels quite good.
Understeer is the weakest around. Check Aris video linked to this post for some plausible explanation
With the settings I posted above (16. Feb) I can feel understeer perfectly.
New tyres and old tyres give a less pronounced feedback, with grippy tyres at their peak the difference in FFB between grip-no grip is massive.
Of course a green or wet track give far less FFB effects than fast or optimum setting.
Overall the best FFB I had in the sims I played so far (R3E, AC).
Yes, you can feel it, but doesn’t make it the least pronounced around.
Accordingly to Aris, it’s closer to real thing. 
Many disagree, but this is internet, opinions are everywhere.
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I experienced the same thing on Silverstone with the Bentley, it’s probably normal on certain tracks/cars. Try Spa, which is a smooth track, with your previous setting and see if you still experience it.
hey guys I just want to share some info. After extensive testing with different cars, tracks, ingame gain ffb, dynamic damping etc. I came to conclusion why we have difficulties to understand what car is doing and when we can push the car even more. The thing is that Kunos decided to change the things how they want the cars to behave. When I usually test the car I want to feel the car properly and turn off traction control off and this is the key! When TC is on even by one step cars feel completly different, they have progressive feel of the tyres in the chichanes and when they are on load. I guess Kunos wanted the game to be more familiar and easy to pick up for everyone and decided to take this direction. Turn TC off and you are on ice if you oversteer even by little. I know first AC has different class of cars and ffb should be balanced towards all of them becouse there are older cars which dont have TC and they needed to build on that, here in ACC ffb was builded with TC on in every car which is shame in my opinion. But thats it, if you want to enjoy this sim even more put TC on.
General recommendation is to use Factory settings, AC or ACC, if TC comes as default on, it will be on.
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