Hi, I recently signed up here and I am a proud owner of smallmige+ioni running latest stable firmware.
Yesterday I tested the settings provided by lar555, Mika and “Sim racing skeijmel” in his YouTube channel.
I tested a Ferrari 458 gt2 in Sachsenring.
For this combo the best setup I felt was Skeijmel’s.
Lar555 Setup was a strange mix of feelings, when turning in a corner it gave you a good rough input of the chassis moving, but the feedback came in suddenly. When going Inna corner I felt no ffb at all and suddenly when the car starts to loose the back the whole ffb comes in strong. Also I noticed the wheel had no ffb when driving in a straight line. Just wanted to describe my personal feelings only with the intention of trying to understand my OSW and those setups. I really own it since over a year but did never really play with the settings in mmos. So maybe I am doing something wrong and would like to hear your feefback to improve my ffb. Maybe someone that has tested also Skeijmel’s setup can help.
Mika’s felt more like Skeijmel’s but needed more force from me to drive the car. I guess it could be due to the effects that were added in Assetto GUI.
Hope to hear your feedback about your experience tuning your setup.
I know it is a procedure of testing and each of us has a personal feeling towards how it should be. But maybe someone was on my same boat and can give me some hints.
Rgds.
Off course everyone should tweak the settings to his/her liking, but at least what I’m aiming for is getting it as close as possible to reality. I tend to lean towards someone who has real life experience. Also tried all the above mentioned settings and to me LAR555’s settings felt good.
After reading your post I tried again with lar555´s config. Actually it is very good.
I think I did something wrong because I changed some parameters in the .ini files but then at the same time did the same in Content Manager, so I actually was not using his config.
I still need your help regarding a couple of things. But before I attach my actual settings.
My doubts:
-Lar555 says he “Increased MMC to 12.860 in Granity”, is he talking about “actual max current”?
-Regarding “FF_experimental” did I select the correct values in CM?
-Regarding “ff_post_process” I think i should put in “ENABLED” the value 1, right? Where do I put it in CM?
Rgds
12.86A POS is the max amps in Granity to drive the small mige to its peak torque of 20NM, correct.
Cheers,
Beano
Question 1:Yes
Question 2: I do not use gyro, haven’t experimented with that,
Question 3: Yes
You want to use gyro 
Will try that! Curious what that does. Now getting to really know RF2 btw. Once overcoming the ui and manual steeringwheel ranges it feels a bit more subtal than AC using Skeijmel settings but mis a bit of weight in the wheel. I’m curious how you perceive the FFB of RF2 compared to AC. Is RF2 more like Iracings FFB?
IRacing and rF2 are two different FFB types. I think gyro are too WIP but some guys say it’s feel better with DD wheels.
Gyro feels better, more realistic. Thx. More stable steering.
Hi there,
Very good read here with a lot of information and different perspectives.
My advice is to read this post from the dev: https://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/index.php?threads/thrustmaster-ts-pc-ts-xw-suggested-settings.48834/
This post explains very well how damper works in AC and how to set up the damper min_level. Mine is at 0.2.
Cyril.
Hi Cyril
Many of these posts may not be relevant to AC or any other title with regard to SimuCUBE or direct drive wheels.
Just like the LUT/other calibration tools that some use, this is for consumer grade wheels that are usually a motor with pulleys/belts.
DD motors are linear and do not need many of the ‘tricks’ that are used to help consumer grade wheels feel better.
However if you feel it makes a difference and you like it, then it’s right for you.
I don’t think that you read the entire post that has been written by an AC dev (it is not generic but only AC specific) so I copy the important part:
That’s a crucial part: the DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL is not just a simple damping force, but it’s related to the gyro effect generated by the wheels, so it is very dynamic, car-dependent, and allows to get more detailed and realistic feedback, especially in “unusual” conditions like slight oversteers or hard left-right (or right-left of course :D). I want to explain it better: the main “problem” setting a steering wheel is finding good ffb values to “feel” the track surface and catch losses of grip in time and with the right amount of force and general steering wheel weight. Setting this behavior the right way is like night and day for the user experience and as said for realism.
I’m lucky to be also a driving instructor on racing/drifting cars in real life, collecting much feedback from real cars and then try to get the closest experience on AC, so a DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL of 0.3 (together with other settings around here) is the value that provides me the most realistic feedback with the TS-PC and AC.
Please advise: this value could be slightly different for other belt-driven wheels (Aris uses 0.2 on his CSW but with a custom DRI value on the wheel, while another dev uses 0.15 on his DD wheel). Don’t go over 0.3 and below 0.1.
Hope this will help. Just for sharing
Interesting, eye-opening read, Cyril. After reading your link, I went into Content Manager and set damper gain at 100 % (1.0 in the ini) and min damper at 15 % (.15 in the ini), and pretty much set Simucube at raw settings, with DI damper at 100 %, but no Simucube damper, friction, or inertia. Then ran some laps in C7R at Sebring, which I ran extensively with LAR555 settings yesterday. Must say . . . it feels pretty darned good.
Thanks to all the wisdom posted on this forum, sharing ideas and tweaks, AC has gone from an irritating, usually vague DD experience to my favorite alongside AMS and even better than rF2 (though I watch that thread all the time, too). It feels quite natural and driving cars in AC is exceptionally addictive.
There are enough variables in each game and Simucube that we have multiple roads to Rome. After tweaking with Skeijmel, LAR555, Barry Rowland, and now this link from Cyril, I have come full circle to rather simple, pretty conventional settings. Have yet to try these in open wheelers, but feels quite nice and informative in a C7R.
Thanks Cyril.
Will try it out.
Hi,
I would like also to point an important setting regarding the strenght.
It is always better to have 100% strength in simucube and adjust the strength in the games.
This helps to reduce greatly the clipping and let a lot of headroom for particular cases.
For example, by looking at the last simucube screens posted here, I can see the strength set at 60% in simucube. Thus limiting the force to this value and it will be impossible to reach more that this force.
So it is better to set 100% in simucube and set 60% in game than 60 in simu and 100 in game.
I hope my explanation is clear.
Cyril
It is for certain that keeping gain well below 100 % is essential to prevent soft clipping in AC and AMS.
Good point, Cyril. I will say, after some experimentation over the months, I have this probably irrational, unscientific sense that my large Mige feels better in the 12 to 18 amp range than at full 25. If I set at 25 amp and offset that with lower gain in game, it feels less refined than splitting the difference on both amps and gain. I will be the first to acknowledge it’s probably in my head, because it doesn’t make sense. To my senses, the feedback feels like the difference between a firm knot in the hand verses jolts of the same magnitude. If you did the Pepsi challenge with 25 amp at lower gain vs. 15 amp at higher (but still middling) gain, I would probably have to admit It’s expectations driving perception.
One small test: Set your Recon Filter to 8 and test again. But what you’re saying is actually making logical sense 
Seb Kjeimel has given me the tip above, I will test it once I arrive home from Jakarta on the weekend!
Cheers,
Beano
Hi Ciryl. Tested your settings. Compared to LAR555 settings. What I found was that at low speed the roadfeel was a bit exaggerated, a constant bumping at low speed. Tested with a Porsche 2017 RSR on Silverstone. To be honest I preferred the LAR555 settings, that bit of inertia and friction makes the wheel feel a bit more stable, more ‘body’, a bit more predictable indeed. Felt the same with a roadcar such as the Audi S1.
Hi, Beano. I ran for a good while with Recon 8 last night. Is there something specific to 8 in the firmware that has been implemented that leads to your recommendation.
It definitely adds a rubbery feel to the steering of the car I tested…911 GT3 R 2016 at Sebring. That being said, Recon 1 feels good on that same car…with a touch more detail, like transitions across patches of pavement. It was rather impressive that I could detect no latency at all with 8.
Has anything in the filters changed, or is 8 a sweet spot. I’ve been running 1 because it seems 4 and 5 dulled the steering…8 felt pretty good. Just slight trade-off of minute detail for rubber feel.
Of course, we are discussing very subtle differences in what has developed into a terrific ffb experience in AC with recent Simucube builds.
Hi Mate,
Sebastian Kjeimel made some good tests and recommended it to me as well. I tested it last night and really like the feel, plus, I could not discern any added latency over the 1-3 I usually run.
It feels significantly more natural than the lower settings though…of course, FFB is very subjective, but I like the RF at 8