Do you need to turn off the reconstruction filter for any of the Simucube effects to work in AC?
I thought they could be used concurrently?
I’m forever trying to figure out how to get a more natural feeling around the wheel center.
There’s just something about it that’s too ‘springy’ and in many ways unnatural and I find myself fighting it if that makes sense.
Decreasing FFB only seems to accentuate the spring effect, and increasing it to much causes more ‘fighting’ with the wheel that seems to care not how the tires should react to the road surface. Driving off camber back to back twisty sections, or through banked turns should have a different feel around center, but it’s always this same constant need to return to center.
When driving in a straight line at high speed through very small kinks in the road where minimal steering input is needed, the steering should be light and get heavy as you get on the brakes and turn into a corner.
But the center spring effect is the same in both situations and that’s not normal behaviour.
Appreciate any more suggestions to dial this out as best we can.
With the new settings architecture in place for the next version, I think something like profile specific bumpstop settings can be implemented. More difficult is to figure out how not to clutter up the user interface too much.
I sincerely hope that you guys are in active discussion with Kunos to ensure that ACC overcomes these issues that took so long to resolve in AC, and there’s still some odd behavior with DD wheels.
With Fanatec ‘Podium Series’ at pre-order, ACC will have DD thought put into it for sure.
Thomas is a smart businessman and he would never allow Kunos to not fully support his new DD wheel.
I just hope that they haven’t struck some kind of deal with Kunos to make Simucube less attractive in terms of support by making things unnecessarily more difficult.
I’d hope not, but at the same point it would be good to know that Kunos are also considering Simucube, or are ensuring that Mika can ensure it is a great experience.
Globespy . . . regarding the on-center feel. I have experimented with Gamma a little, and it affects the on-center feel. Sometimes I sense what you are experiencing (the spring-like center) at Gamma 1 or off—and going to 105% (1.05 in the ini) improves that. I don’t claim to understand gamma—I know it affects linearity of the FFB. But I do find that a small increase above 1.0 seems to make more effective delineation between subtle and strong forces that makes it feel more akin to rF2 or AMS. My observation is that it works a little like increasing the maxsteeringarmforce in AMS’s RealFeel—but on a much coarser scale. Maybe the power of a DD amplifies lower forces that were designed the be detectable but subtle (like on-center feel) for G27’s and T300’s.
But, frankly, other time—I go back to 1.0 because increased gamma makes on-center feel a little soft. Would welcome more expert input on gamma.
I an no expert in gamma but we keep it enabled=0 in the ini bec it feels better at least for us with the large mige. Another thing to play is div and mul. Keep them the same and try div=mul numbers 50 , 60 , 70 , 80 , 90 and 100. We settled lately for 70 for the large mige as it felt better for the road cars but i don’t have a specific number for the small mige, so owners of the small mige will have to try it. We also always set mpp to the watts of the psu as it feels better than unllimited, atleast for us.
Thanks, Loukas. I’ve not tried fiddling with the Granity settings to affect feel. I’ll try your suggestions tonight. So on my large mige with the 480/720 w power supply—mpp would be 720?
Changing MUL/DIV values should have no effect, as long as the values remain the same (scaling is 1:1) and DIV is larger than 20. These parameters just scale the setpoint signal.
Big mige has lower ratio, thus need more amps at same voltage to achieve same torque…thus if I can use correct term, it needs higher wattage for same torque than servo with higher NM/A ratio…
So my Large Mige should be on 18A instead of the 12 that it’s on now to reflect the settings of LAR555. It’s basically too light? I’ll try the steering rotation fix asap. Seems promising
Yes. Based on that spreadsheet I previously attached, which somebody more knowledgeable than I prepared, 12a would result in maximum torque of 13.4, whereas 18a would be right at 20, which is equivalent to the 20nm put out by a small Mige at 12.8amp or so.
I’ve not tried a small Mige, but there is pretty extensive discussion on this and other forums about differences in feel, inertia, etc. between large and small that are beyond the raw numbers. I don’t know that using the equivalent of LAR555’s settings will yield identical feel on a large Mige as he is creating on a small. But I would think it should be close and a good baseline.
