Hi there,
Very good read here with a lot of information and different perspectives.
My advice is to read this post from the dev: https://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/index.php?threads/thrustmaster-ts-pc-ts-xw-suggested-settings.48834/
This post explains very well how damper works in AC and how to set up the damper min_level. Mine is at 0.2.
Cyril.
Hi Cyril
Many of these posts may not be relevant to AC or any other title with regard to SimuCUBE or direct drive wheels.
Just like the LUT/other calibration tools that some use, this is for consumer grade wheels that are usually a motor with pulleys/belts.
DD motors are linear and do not need many of the ‘tricks’ that are used to help consumer grade wheels feel better.
However if you feel it makes a difference and you like it, then it’s right for you.
I don’t think that you read the entire post that has been written by an AC dev (it is not generic but only AC specific) so I copy the important part:
That’s a crucial part: the DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL is not just a simple damping force, but it’s related to the gyro effect generated by the wheels, so it is very dynamic, car-dependent, and allows to get more detailed and realistic feedback, especially in “unusual” conditions like slight oversteers or hard left-right (or right-left of course :D). I want to explain it better: the main “problem” setting a steering wheel is finding good ffb values to “feel” the track surface and catch losses of grip in time and with the right amount of force and general steering wheel weight. Setting this behavior the right way is like night and day for the user experience and as said for realism.
I’m lucky to be also a driving instructor on racing/drifting cars in real life, collecting much feedback from real cars and then try to get the closest experience on AC, so a DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL of 0.3 (together with other settings around here) is the value that provides me the most realistic feedback with the TS-PC and AC.
Please advise: this value could be slightly different for other belt-driven wheels (Aris uses 0.2 on his CSW but with a custom DRI value on the wheel, while another dev uses 0.15 on his DD wheel). Don’t go over 0.3 and below 0.1.
Hope this will help. Just for sharing
Interesting, eye-opening read, Cyril. After reading your link, I went into Content Manager and set damper gain at 100 % (1.0 in the ini) and min damper at 15 % (.15 in the ini), and pretty much set Simucube at raw settings, with DI damper at 100 %, but no Simucube damper, friction, or inertia. Then ran some laps in C7R at Sebring, which I ran extensively with LAR555 settings yesterday. Must say . . . it feels pretty darned good.
Thanks to all the wisdom posted on this forum, sharing ideas and tweaks, AC has gone from an irritating, usually vague DD experience to my favorite alongside AMS and even better than rF2 (though I watch that thread all the time, too). It feels quite natural and driving cars in AC is exceptionally addictive.
There are enough variables in each game and Simucube that we have multiple roads to Rome. After tweaking with Skeijmel, LAR555, Barry Rowland, and now this link from Cyril, I have come full circle to rather simple, pretty conventional settings. Have yet to try these in open wheelers, but feels quite nice and informative in a C7R.
Thanks Cyril.
Will try it out.
Hi,
I would like also to point an important setting regarding the strenght.
It is always better to have 100% strength in simucube and adjust the strength in the games.
This helps to reduce greatly the clipping and let a lot of headroom for particular cases.
For example, by looking at the last simucube screens posted here, I can see the strength set at 60% in simucube. Thus limiting the force to this value and it will be impossible to reach more that this force.
So it is better to set 100% in simucube and set 60% in game than 60 in simu and 100 in game.
I hope my explanation is clear.
Cyril
It is for certain that keeping gain well below 100 % is essential to prevent soft clipping in AC and AMS.
Good point, Cyril. I will say, after some experimentation over the months, I have this probably irrational, unscientific sense that my large Mige feels better in the 12 to 18 amp range than at full 25. If I set at 25 amp and offset that with lower gain in game, it feels less refined than splitting the difference on both amps and gain. I will be the first to acknowledge it’s probably in my head, because it doesn’t make sense. To my senses, the feedback feels like the difference between a firm knot in the hand verses jolts of the same magnitude. If you did the Pepsi challenge with 25 amp at lower gain vs. 15 amp at higher (but still middling) gain, I would probably have to admit It’s expectations driving perception.
One small test: Set your Recon Filter to 8 and test again. But what you’re saying is actually making logical sense 
Seb Kjeimel has given me the tip above, I will test it once I arrive home from Jakarta on the weekend!
Cheers,
Beano
Hi Ciryl. Tested your settings. Compared to LAR555 settings. What I found was that at low speed the roadfeel was a bit exaggerated, a constant bumping at low speed. Tested with a Porsche 2017 RSR on Silverstone. To be honest I preferred the LAR555 settings, that bit of inertia and friction makes the wheel feel a bit more stable, more ‘body’, a bit more predictable indeed. Felt the same with a roadcar such as the Audi S1.
Hi, Beano. I ran for a good while with Recon 8 last night. Is there something specific to 8 in the firmware that has been implemented that leads to your recommendation.
It definitely adds a rubbery feel to the steering of the car I tested…911 GT3 R 2016 at Sebring. That being said, Recon 1 feels good on that same car…with a touch more detail, like transitions across patches of pavement. It was rather impressive that I could detect no latency at all with 8.
Has anything in the filters changed, or is 8 a sweet spot. I’ve been running 1 because it seems 4 and 5 dulled the steering…8 felt pretty good. Just slight trade-off of minute detail for rubber feel.
Of course, we are discussing very subtle differences in what has developed into a terrific ffb experience in AC with recent Simucube builds.
Hi Mate,
Sebastian Kjeimel made some good tests and recommended it to me as well. I tested it last night and really like the feel, plus, I could not discern any added latency over the 1-3 I usually run.
It feels significantly more natural than the lower settings though…of course, FFB is very subjective, but I like the RF at 8
I’ve been playing with it off and on today, too, Beano. You’re spot on, it feels natural, and strangely seems to let more detail through than the intermediate filter settings.
I also did some experimentation with 15 amp vs 25 amp on my large Mige and AC. Here is an objective observation of a result; but I’m curious as to the cause. At 15 amp strength and 60 % in-game gain, with 100 % DI dampening, no other filters in Simucube (other than Recon)—and in AC–Dampening gain at 1.0, min damp 0.15, I get minimal oscillation while stationary. At 25 amp strength and 36 % in-game gain, everything else the same—I get violent oscillation while stationary.
One would think the overall output at 25amp/36% in game would be roughly the same as 15amp/60% in game. However, at least while stationary, AC is bypassing its own overall gain setting and using the Simucube strength.
Question: Is this also true of the dampening generated by AC while driving? Is it not subject to the in-game gain setting?
Sorry for the noob questions:
Where exactly would I find the Recon Filter setting?
I am running a large MIGE. The “Actual max current” is 12.00 A @ 100% in the “Profiles” tab. How do I get to set any larger Amps than that?
Thanks.
Recon filter is in simucube. Bottom part of the settings page. First setting.
For the amps you have to change that in Granite. Then it will show up in simucube.
Also tested RF 8, I think its an improvement. Dampens everything a bit to more subtal levels. Curious what LAR555 thinks of it.
I try lot setting i have Augury kit 30NM with biss-c 20A at 100% simcube, 30% ingame with CFG modification.
I find the steering wheel still too hard (i try mito, abarth) only when I decrease the ffb cars I lose a lot of info I can not find something conclusive someone could share his setting or I need to change my diet by lowering amperage to align me with what you have to find?
thx
I think LAR555 settings with Reconstruction filter 8 feels great. On a small mige though.
Hi am using filter=1 with lenze and i feel no spikes in assetto. It is smooth and feels good. I think that the ideal setting is defferent servo by servo
For me the RF is quiet linear in the feel from 1 to 8. The more I increase RF, the more the rubber feels soft, especially on kerbs. I would say that 1 feets very well the race cars (stiff) and 8 the production cars (soft).
My reference is the Porsche 911 2017 RSR, on RF1 the tyrewear results in a too bumpy feeling after a few laps, also for these types of cars I prefer RF8. More subtle and feels a but more realistic to me, but I don’t drive one in real life so would like some thoughts of someone who does.
