But honestly, after spending some quality time in ACC, AC always feels like a pretty sad simpleton. 
Right ok, that is what i thought. So in CM your damper gain is at 100% but then you go in game on the controller tweaks and drop it everytime to 0. Why? just reduce it in CM once and you are done. Also i think your settings approach is a mixed bag cause you are trying to combine too many contradicting things (500% range compression with steer assist but then SFR) and on top you are adding FFB clip which messes up things. Maybe the outcome for you is fine but i feel a simpler/cleaner approach would give you much better results.
Good point that I can drop damping to 0 somewhere in CM, and I donât have to it all over again. But the result is the same, damping is at 0.
Range compression turns steer assist into âŚrange compression, so itâs either or: once you activate range compression it disables steer assist. Itâs not both.
500 percent sounds a lot, but it is affecting only small forces. No big spikes, no harsh humps. But a very very detailed and still intense FFB. If you are too late in Imola, and the 22 skin has some heavy yellow barriers, you have to grab the wheel really hard, or you gonna loose it.
I use SFR because the forces in high speed corners, especially a combination left right is close together, it is impossible to react so fast and with constant forces so high.
You seem to agree that clipping is coming from in-game. So when I have a car that produces in real world 12Nm of forces at the steering wheel, why shouldnât I limit those forces in a game not to 12NM? All what I do is: this is the amount of torque the car produces at the steering wheel. That is what the game sends to the Simucube. And in TD I decide, at how much torque of what the the Simucube motor is capable she delivers what she receives.
@Mika once wrote: you can have clipping at every torque settings on TD. Clipping is in-game related.
In my understanding that is exactly what I follow: I set an amount of FFB in-game. I then decide on what level of torque the Simucube 2 delivers the signal to my steering wheel. Fe: in game I have 10Nm. At TD I have 100 percent. So I will get the output of the game with the full capacity of my DD. If I set TD at 10 percent, I still get the full signal, but at 10 percent of what the Simucube 2 can deliver.
And like I wrote: this is for cars not from Kunos and a single style of cars.
PS: donât you do the same in Iracing when you set the maximum torque at a certain number? If you do this in AC with an app that has a DD mode, which let you set the maximum amount of torque, I think you do the same. I donât know how else you can define the exact amount of Nm in AC
In order to get range compression you need to check the assist, otherwise you get assist? That is confusing. 
i ll check it next time i have time cause it doesnt make sense to me as i am quite sure that by increasing the range compression slider i was getting more lower forces without having checked the steer assist.
My experience with FFB clip was never good. Last time i used it was 3 years ago with the SC2 and it was just weird. Maybe i had set it up wrong. But in essence if in am not mistaken it should just adjust on the fly the strength so you get the target strength e.g. 12NM or something. Which essentially interferes with the physics engine and dynamically changes forces? I just prefer to set the desired strength for each car myself and not let some app do it for me. If i need to correct some of the wheel reactions, there are ways to do it.
You have to use FSR because you are running higher forces than you can handle or that are normal. This is probably due to the FFB Clip thingy. FSR is cool and can help in constant forces like cornering, but it is useless in instant/quick forces like countersteer, oversteer, etc. My question to you then is what do you do if you oversteer? How good are your settings once you start sliding? Yes, you will say you are driving a rss formula 2021 which is not supposed to slide, so all good⌠But really at least to my logic, we should be looking for settings that should work with most cars and most conditions. That is what i have done with my settings and to me are good for most if not all cars, kunos or others.
I could test your settings just out of curiosity with the rss formula, but really i dont want to mess/deal at all with ffb clip due to my bad past experience.
Of course it is possible, you have to check the orange line 
Thanks! Unlocked, set to 0, locked. I donât have to do it over and over again. Again, thanks
So I spent a big part of my day off testing with FFB CLIP, I must admit that itâs not bad at all, except for the gyro of FFB CLIP, I like the rest very much, I have not touched my TD settings are the same.
So I set the global gain of the game, I leave the ffb per car on 100% and well FFB CLIP adjusts the steering force for each car, itâs pretty convincing because I can drive an Audi R8 road car and an Abarth 500 road car or a Lotus Elise, the force is not the same at all, itâs fine for me, at least for now.
Below my settings today, everything that is green in CM is what I changed.
I also think that the application of the adjustment on the brake is great, I find that I dose better the braking pressure of the car, I even disconnected the ABS, is it a placebo effect âŚ
Well I donât know what youâre thinking⌠
Hi @Andrew_WOT do you have any good settings for the ACC? Tried few of them from paddock but still not happy. Thanks in advat
Setup from Max Verstappen⌠THIS Max Verstappen???
2021.9 Classic, no Paddock.
Did you find Tronald Dump too?
Nope, but Iâll let him know you want to see him.
Sincerely
Ray Clegazzoni
PS: nice link from you to you
Not sure if you get the joke. Reread the name on your screenshot.
Thank you. Is your base bit noisy with 2021.09?
