Ok 45% is probably too much with 100% in TD. I am not a small dude but definitely not a hulk. The thing is you need to have enough force for the wheel to be able to react. There is balance to everything, with low forces you can get away with minimal filtering. You can increase force but you must then balance the filtering. Do not feel like you are making compromises with filters by adding more as long as they do not take away responsiveness. For example add too much damping or friction or high recon and then the wheel is sluggish as hell. For me AC is mixed bag. There are so many different mods from so many different people. A set of settings might be good for some cars but shit for others. After years of experimentation i took out the gyros csp or CM and try to control things from TD which is more solid in all mods. The Slew rate is not something to be used only for crashes and spikes. It plays a role everywhere and the good thing with using it is that you dont lose responsiveness like for example with recon, damping, inertia, etc. The wheel in an oversteer will react immediately but with lower force making the countersteer more manageable. You can use this to make the wheel feel closer to real life.
Anyway probably i miss-understood this whole thing. I got the impression that you might need some help/guidance as you said you are new to DD and got confused for 3 weeks. But you seem to have things sorted out, so my bad.
No, itās circled as unchecked to emphasize that itās not used :), the one on main Controller settings (vanilla Gyro) is checked. Try both, see what works better, CSP corrected one needs more damping. You can also try without any Gyro, it might feel even better if you find a good balance with Damping settings as oscillation and aggressive wheel realignment become a problem.
There is no one setting that fits everyone, experiment and try to find your own formula.
Surprised you have heavy FFB at just 10%, are you sure there is no some FFBClip gains saved somewhere if you used it before. 10% Overall gain and 100% car multiplier should be fairly light on BMW 1M.
@Panschoin Thanks for the explenation and dont get me wrong, i do appreciate the help. Its just super confusing when people with way more experience with Simucube than me say 10% gain as i have it is weak and i almost cant turn the wheel.
The thing that put me off was the Bmw 1M, the setup on it was made for my old Thrustmaster and had way more negative camber than the base tune, thats why my turning forces in faster corners were so much higher than my other 2 test cars. Tried the base tune only with corrected tyre pressures and the cornering forces went immidiatly down to normal.
I used extra 3 Kunos cars to set up the FFB so no mods are changing the outcome but i wasnt thinking about the setup. At least one failure point found and i can continue testing
Hm interesting your using slew rate for catching slides. I was always off the opinion slew rate only comes into play in crashes because the Nm/ms is so high that you shouldnt feel a difference (lets say you limit it to 1Nm/ms, thats still only 25ms to reach the full 25NM of force so i expected thats still so fast you wont notive a difference in normal driving circumstances i.e. no crash).
Ok that is the thing with AC. You try some settings with a few cars and everything is roses so you think you are done. But then you try something different and it sucks. You think ok itās just this car or this mod, but then more cars you try are again shit. Then frustration kicks in. I have been fiddling with AC settings for over 3 years, you can scroll up and find my posts since 2019 i think. Every now and then i post new settings very different to each other. Why? because i have been where you are.
For me both dynamic damping implementations are not working, not in all cars or at least not in the mods i am interested. I lean towards drift and road cars and my goal was always to make the settings resemble somehow real life cars. Andrewās settings are more or less fine as a base for GT cars, but they didnāt really work for me for drifting as although the countersteer is tamed, it feels uninformative to me and very far from what my experience is with real cars.
Slew rate can work miracles with AC specifically. It doesnt make much difference in other titles, but for AC anything from 0.3 to 0.6 should be fine. Anything above 0.6 (with gyro CM or CSP disabled) is not nice. Dont get my word for it, just use it and see if it changes things for you. It is just another tool that is worth exploring. I started using it after 2 years of having my Pro. I am not trying to say i am an expert and that you have to do what i say, no way, i am just trying to give you some hints.
If you want, i can post my recent settings. You can try them, try Andrewās recent ones, get hints/ideas and make your own. It never hurts trying different stuff.
Is what I keep telling the whole time:
It totally depends on the car class you are in. GT cars need a total different setup than drifting and street cars. And the ones I drive arenāt even AC cars, not even DLC cars.
Itās totally logical that we have very different setups.
I also mentioned that our steering wheels are very different too, weight, size, shapeā¦ everything.
If I change from Fe the RSS 2018 to the 2021 FFB settings must be adjusted. Luckily for all these cars there are a lot of setups for all tracks. But when I drive a race with over 120 kg of fuel settings are very different from those I use for a hotlap.
No-one needs to be felt missunderstood, or not respected. We canāt have a lot in common when we are driving totally different cars. That is pretty all I can say about this
I can only assume that drifting settings could be different as this is type of driving I am completely cold about.
The rest, Formula, GT, sports, street cars, RSS, I use the same settings. And while I agree that AC content could be hit and miss when it comes to FFB/Physics, itās tons better than Madness based titles, including AMS2, if you discard bad mods.
If you want real consistency, go to ACC, unfortunately it does not have such rich variety of content as AC, or Nord.
And noone is trying to āridiculeā anyoneās settings, I am always looking at these exchanges as opportunity to learn something or delegate to others what Iāve learned myself.
Itās always better to stay open minded, Dunning-Kruger effect is a real thing.
Exactly and that is probably the reason why you and I have been debating over settings some times . We are doing different stuff with AC. For AMS 2 that is also true and that is why i have spent hundreds of hours in developing the custom file (which i am not even sure if it is relevant now 1 year later). As for ACC indeed it is cool until the moment you lose the tail, then for me it just hit and miss if i am going to catch the slideā¦But really that is the way devs wanted it beā¦ As i said many many times already a telemetry based TD or whatever would just solve so many issues but it seems to be wishful thinking.
Thanks @Panschoin, i would love to test your settings, the more i can learn how this damn thing works the better
Im just somewhat of the opinion that one setting should work for most kunos cars. The fundamentals are the same so i would love to be able to only dial cars in with in-car gain and leave TD and AC settings otherwise the same. I could do that with my Thrustmaster so i see no reason why it shouldnt be possible with a Simucube.
Same goes for race and drift settings imo, if im racing a powerfull rwd car there will also be situations where my back goes sideways and i need to be able to feel whats happening so my settings need to incooperate both driving situations anyway so racing and drifting should both be possible with the same settings.
It is fact and truth for ALL CAR CLASSES, we agree on this. A GT car, has much more weight, less downforce Aso Aso aso. Tyre size, pressure and profile is differentā¦I could go on for hours.
I donāt know why @Andrew_WOT is acknowledging that there is (or could be) a difference to drifting but at the same time denying this for GT and formula. The difference in the rotation degrees of those cars already influences setups.
And sometimes I get the idea that you, @Andrew_WOT, doesnāt read half of what people write: I hope this is the last attempt (there are maybe 4 or 5 before this one) to let you know that I DONāT LIKE SIMRACING GT CARS, AND THEREFORE NEVER DRIVE ACC!!! @Andrew_WOT, I never come up to tell you to drive WRC or F1. Why? Because I know from your posts that you are into GT cars and ACC. Not exclusively, but itās your favourite simulation and the cars you are driving the most. Because even I maybe disagree I still read what you writing.
Same with your standard reply when it comes to the clipping app in AC:
Itās old, even the developer (Atleā¦ something , canāt remember his family name)
himself gave up after DD showed up on the market.
But he made an update with DD mode, changed because of DD from percent to Nm, made a new function where you can inform the app about the max Nm of your DD, among other stuff. So he didnāt stopped when DD technology arrived, but adapted his app to it.
If the app is necessary, old, good, badā¦ whatever, this is not the point in this very moment: itās the fact he went on, and not abandoned it.
The same with the gyro question: those who prefer the CSP gyro over the first one are all echoers.
And: sorry to you, @Panschoin!! I just abused my reply to you to ābashā @Andrew_WOTā¦ sorry
Sorry bro, that is wishful thinking. These cars are different in so many points, there is no 1 for all settings. When I go from Spa to Silverstone the car setup is totally different, and this for the same car. Itās gonna be even a 3d or 4th variation, based on weight, tyres and/or weather conditions. Why do you see this as totally normal, but the need for different presets/TD settings is something āsuspicious/strange/wrongā for you?
I wasnāt even replying to you, why do you always have to interject?
GT and Formula cars have different physics, but with the right engine the FFB should be reflective of the car class/model, you do not need to keep adjusting it every time you change the car.
Degree of wheel rotation is accounted for by engine as well, you set 1180 in TD and AC (max supported) and each car will have its own specific rotation within its range, if you activate HW lock feature in CM you can even have car specific hard bumpstops.
So yes, same settings for all cars, the only thing I change is slightly adjusting car FFB multiplier if itās weaker or stronger than overall gain, have buttons on wheel mapped just for that, same as in ACC.
I do not drift, so have no idea on settings, Iād assume the wheel must be looser with less damping and gain, and Gyro could interfere with quick counter steering, but I am ingnoramus here, itās just not my thing.
I was in fact replying to @Panschoinā¦and I could ask you the same, which I donāt. I may disagree, but it would never came to my mind to question your right to post
@CLAYREGAZZONI Roli no, no need to bash Andrew. He used to have stronger views/opinions in the past but not any more and he is right in quite a few thing he says. I am from a different driving school and still i have learned a lot from him over the years. The fact of the matter is that with the cars he is driving and his preference, his settings are good and people with similar tastes might be better off using them. But if you are into sideways, no traction control, etc. then not really as these settings are missing a lot. You can still drive the other cars (except those that gyro works strange causing issues like cogging, crazy bumpstops,etc) but there are things missing.
@Andrew_WOT Agree that any implementation of clipping app in AC is not a good idea. The target is to find some good setting for primarily the type of cars each of us are interested in and then just use the car FFB app to adjust the strength. There shouldnāt be more issues. Btw the main issue with gyro is that on oversteer/countersteer there is lack of information/feel. Forces are normal and there is no harsh snap back but the whole thing is numb (during oversteer only, dont get me wrong), so you do things mechanically from reflexes with no feel. That is why no gyro is not preferable but then again you need to control the harsh forces which brings the need for additional filteringā¦There is so much damping and friction you can add before the wheel becomes unresponsive and practically useless and that is where Slew Rate came into play for me.
At then end of the day we all have different styles, experiences, preferences and opinions and that is respectable. The only purpose of these posts is to share ideas and tips for improving our own and others experience with the simucube.
Details of the idea behind the new gyro:
Concretely, what weāre talking about here is oversteer - on the original experimental gyro, the force acts counter to self-alignment during oversteer. With this new implementation, self-alignment is allowed to occur freely, or, if the oversteer is so quick that the wheels canāt self-align, itāll actually push in the direction of alignment.
And of course itās strictly about verbal bashing. And that in quotation marks on top. So that there is really absolutely no room for missinterpretation
That is exactly what I used the clipping app for: to determine the max torque I feel comfortable with my cars. Because those of Sim dream development tend to need less force than those from Race Sim Studio it was the easiest way for me to define those 2 Nm settings, while the intensity of the FFB remains similar
My remarks on ACC having more consistent content was in direct reply to Panschoinās post, no one was telling YOU to use ACC, use what you like, nobody really cares.
ACC just like AC is Kunos title, built on the same physics engine, so mentioning it here is not completely out of the discussion context.
Not wrong or strange per se, i just dont want to change TD profiles or fiddle with main AC FFB settings just because i switch cars.
The goal is to drive a new car and all i need to do is change FFB via in-car gain to a strenght i like once, save it and then never touch it again.
When i then change cars next time, eveything is setup and i can jump in and drive. Its the only way to safe specific car FFB without having to touch anything because AC saves in-car gain for every car seperatly. You cant do that in TD or with ACās main FFB settings, thats the problem.
I still disagree with that. Its possible with a cheap belt driven Thrustmaster so why shouldnt it be possible with a SC2?
If its because the wheel is belt driven and more dampend? I can set that up with the SC2 manualy.
Is it the overall force? I can change that too.
I dont understand why you insist on it being impossible with an SC2 but its possible with a Thrustmaster. Just curious, whats the techincal reason?
Pleasure to have a discourse with you
Technicallyā¦I donāt know. My idea is because of the difference in the cars themselves. But I myself use practically almost everywhere the same settings. All I adjust is torque and steering range, and static force reduction in rallyā¦
I drive, again, F1/F1 like cars and rally. The only difference in my settings between RBR rally and WRC 9: torque
But you are the one looking for the 1 unicorn setting, and it seems you canāt find it. It would initially be your job to explain to me why it doesnāt work
Iām a bit confused
Because the game is made for these types of wheels???
Very very strange: I today wanted to do a post about the booming hardware market, and the fact that almost all games are very old.
Asked myself, why we all of a sudden have a DD from each and every company, new pedals, wheels and rigs, but still games made for controllers. Fe F1 titles from Codemasters: when I compare the F1 2018 to 21 titles, best with Simucube are the older ones. Why, Iām not totally sure. It could also be the complexity of the new cars. Or the pressure to bring up a new title every year. For me it is a bit like this:
A title has good VR, but bad FFB. Another title good FFB, but no VR. Next title has very good graphics andā¦not really much more. And quite some titles are just garbage, or doesnāt work with the Simucube, which is garbage aswell.
It looks like the hardware troops have made hardware for titles we can expect in 2024ā¦
Yep and you wonder why you have spent EUR 1.5K+ on the king of DDsā¦ If only we had a good implementation of telemetry based FFBā¦ Let see what Mika and the team will bring to the table in the future.