As there were different iterations of settings throughout this thread, here’s my most recent ones.
I mostly racing ACC recently as FFB and physics to me is a huge step up from AC.
Thanks, i give it a try tomorrow if i get some free time and happy christmas.
To you too, and FFB feels better after eggnog. 
I know, not the best photographer out there…
Because I use the community on the smartphone it’s easier for me to open the camera, maybe that is why.
My TD settings are almost to 100 percent identical to yours: except 900/1180 and constant damping 0/5. Because you have a Pro, and I a Sport, the difference in damping is normal, if not surprisingly small.
In AC, difference is only:
gain 100/45
road 10/0
ABS 0/10 (because I don’t have in F1 cars/Formula cars)
And gyro…can be that the difference is also based on the different car classes.
Surprised you can get away with no damping at all and CM (corrected) gyro. It does work in some cars, from my understanding in just select few mods, otherwise I was just getting more oscillation and very offensive snap back when tires regain traction.
Gain 100 in game will lead to some signal clipping, it’s better to have it higher in TD and leave some headroom in AC.
I can’t get higher than 100 percent in TD🤣
Is like you say:
It’s most likely a question of the cars. I have never used an original car from AC but 1, the Ferrari SF70H (DLC). Everything else is from RSS (I like those the most)
It’s an older video, not very fast, but still gives you an idea:
and Sim dream development (Assetto Corsa mods)
https://www.assettocorsamods.org/
You didn’t get my point on the CM gain you are using. Even at 100 TD strength, with 10% (if i see your setting right) in CM you should be somehow at around 2-3NM (it is not exactly like that but anyway). So yes maybe at that strength there is not much going on, not much need for taming the forces of the 25NM DD drive and probably no need to touch the Slew rate. But if you ever decide to try forces at around 9-12 NM then maybe you will find the need for Slew rate or more damping or anything else offered by TD. Keep in mind that everything is relevant to strength and the amount of force. Also what do you mean canned effects? All the effects are canned anyway, nothing comes from telemetry. There is no difference to the quality of effects if you add higher values. Some people like more noise on road, other more on curbs etc. It is a personal preference. There is no right or wrong on how people set their FFB. By all means if you are happy with what you got, please continue using it. I just gave you some pointer as per my personal experience. The obvious thing for me is that your strength is too low and i am not sure how an SC2 pro would make much sense at that strength. But anyway as i said FFB is very subjective.
Also i think Andew is right, better keep the DI Damping at 0 and set a higher damping.
All the best.
I also think that this is by far not enough. The only solution this could work is to use high settings while driving, through per car multiplier. I have overall gain at 100.
Slew rate: with high torque slew rate can limit how much force you will encounter when having a crash, hitting a wall with full speed. While the rest of the race you won’t feel it’s there. It makes a huge difference having a crash with 10Nm per millisecond or 3Nm per millisecond (as an example).
Canned effects: I think all but kurbs are coming from the physics engine of the game. So kurbs would in my understanding then be really fake, while the rest is… kind of semiauthentic?
Are you sure High Torque is activated? Either that or you have Hulk inside. 
EDIT: Checked your video, didn’t realize that you use FFBClip, that one will adjust per car gain multiplier, so if you want higher get rid of it and delete all previously calculated per car gains. Why do you even need it with DD wheel, it was meant to maximize signal level while avoiding clipping for weaker wheels.
As mentioned, an older video. FFB clip has a DD mode. It was helpful at the time. And yes, high torque is enabled.
Maybe you use more per car multiplier and, don’t forget, you have 25 and something, me 17.
You can see that the cars are not very heavy to drive.
Slew Rate is not dampening, it is more like compressing. It is not like the other Effects and Filters. You have to adjust it very often. Different Car, diff Track, diff FBB settings ingame and diff TD Strengh settings. But it is a very powerful Tool. Got AC an FFB-output to Motec?
Tried it once and never touched again, much better tools around to smooth out signal besides artificially handicapping motor ability to accelerate.
http://wiki.get-good.net/index.php?title=Assetto_Corsa_Wheel_Settings_Guide
gain:
This is a straightforward multiplier on all forces. For wheels that grind, slip, or have other issues at maximum force, this should be set somewhere below 100%. If your wheel is too powerful you can turn it even lower. If you use FFBClip, leave this at 100%
Custom Shaders Patch:
Aside from making the game look much better, CSP also has a couple of FFB tweaks, including an improved gyroscopic effect. CSP can be downloaded through the Content Manager client.
Gyroscopic effect:
adds a damping effect that becomes stronger at speed. Custom Shaders Patch has a superior version of this effect, so you should leave this unchecked
Range compression:
An alternate method of boosting small forces
Not sure what was the the purpose of your post.
I am well aware of FFBClip and used it for many years before moving to DD wheel. FFBClip creator (Atle Dreier) stopped using it himself after moving to direct drive, it’s just not needed with powerful wheel.
CSP Gyroscopic effect is only “superior” in the eyes of its creator and echo chamber followers.
Use both, pick what works for your, it’s radically different and completely missing dynamic damping portion, may be “gyro” effect is better, don’t know, couldn’t tell as jerking wheel was ripping my arms out of sockets.
I probably should stop replying, it’s just waste of everyone’s time.
Merry Christmas.
We agree that we disagree on most. But we finally found a way to communicate, don’t we.
I wish you merry Christmas and a happy new year! Stay safe and healthy, Andrew!!
Greetings Roland
But the feeling is very different. It is not a smoothing…
The best way to setup the Slew Rate is with the help of Motec, visualize the Slew Rate makes it much easier!
And merry christmas to all of you! 
@Panschoin I did get your point, using Andrews settings on post 481 but with 10% AC gain the holding forces are pretty high with the M1 stage 3 i use for testing, corners over 200Km/h are pretty heavy and definitly higher than 2-3NM, i would guess at least 10NM if not more (i use torque wrenches every day so i think i can guess that pretty accurate).
The whole point of having AC gain on 10% is to get the average standard in-car gain to 100 because in-car gain has a range between 1-200 so i get the widest possible spectrum per car to adjust FFB strength.
I tried 45% AC gain as on Andrew’s post and when driving at 50Km/h with the BMW 1M stage 3 (a car with power steering) the wheel is about as heavy to turn as a real car without power steering standing still. Its almost impossible to turn and feeling details is even more impossible.
I drove quite a few nice and sporty cars in my life (im a car mechanics), i also drove a BMW 1M so i think i can compare pretty good and none of them where even close as heavy to turn as the wheel is even with 10% AC gain. So either youre an absolute Hulk or something with my software is messed up idk.
As for slew-rate, correct me if im wrong but i did understand it like @CLAYREGAZZONI said, its something you use to prevent fast and strong torque spikes like in a crash right?
With canned effects i mean the 4 effects you can manualy turn up (kerb, road, slip, ABS), these are additional and artificial to some extent. You have all these effects even when they are turned to 0, its just what the raw simulation delivers. Turning these 4 up just artificially increase these forces.
And also Merrc Christmas everyone
Edit: Ok seems like the problems i have are BMW 1m stage 3 related, i report back when i had some more time to test.
@Andrew_WOT So do you have both gyros deactivated or CSP gyro activated at 25%? I tried the settings you posted yesterday and really liked them but i enabled CSP gyro at 25% because you circled the option in in your picture. Did i get that wrong?
Also do you have the CSP feature to output real forces for DDD wheels enabled or not? You’ve never shown or mentioned that option.
My AC settings:
TD:
full torque for the Sport
Recon 1 (tried off, is an interesting variation)
CM:
overall gain 100
road: 10
Gyro off
CSP:
FFB tweaks on
Gyro on, default 25
DD force to same as in TD
Pedals 200kg, real force 200kg
Because with lower values I end up locking very early, even I change the gamma curve
Range compression assist:
Turn steer assist into range active. Try 400 percent
The percentage is straightforward: Set it to how much you want to multiply small forces. Or adjust it in sync with your overall gain if you want to maintain the level of small forces and change large forces. For example, 200% compression + 50% gain = original 100% on small forces, larger forces decrease. If you’re curious, the curve at the point of maximum force is simply the inverse, 200% compression will cause large forces 50% of the original delta in force. But in combination with 50% gain, you’re moving the original maximum force downward and the ceiling before the game clips is much higher.
Full text is here:
@Beni_Stingray Avez-vous essayé mes paramètres que j’ai postés juste au-dessus ? Voyez ce que vous en pensez. Je les utilise pour les gt 3, mais pour les voitures de ville, je n’ai pas beaucoup de différence, juste un peu plus d’amortissement et la rotation est passée à 1180 Edit : Joyeux Noël à vous tous, profitez-en
