Thanks everybody for the convs, have learned a lot from this topic to be honest.
Still waiting for @Panschoin settings to be shared as they suit my driving style and was very happy with previous ones 
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For @Highmynamesryaan and anyone else who wants to try my latest settings.
Just copy them exactly as you see them (adjust though the TD strength accordingly for Sport/Ultimate). They should be working with most cars/mods but the trick is to find the correct FFB Strength per car. For me the strength can range anywhere from 40% to 80% for each car and off course there are outliers that may need more or less. So, start with 60% and increase or decrease as you see fit for your preference and equipment. But note that the higher the force, the higher the cornering strength and the more pronounced the nuances and details will be, but also the oversteer snapback and countersteer force. Set the strength too low and you will lose things. So, it is all a matter of balance. Once you find the correct strength per car, then you can as well experiment/fine tune the TD settings if needed.
As far as the CM effects, try first the ones I have and adjust them as you want them. They may as well depend on the car or track. Do not overdo the road effects as they can bring a lot of noise. I have not been using the latest TD, so I hope there will not be differences from the next versions.
Hope these will make sense to at least some of you.
Happy New Year to all!!
Edit: I have the Pro so am not sure how the Slew Rate value translates to the Sport or the Ultimate as the 3 motors have different slew rates. If you find snapback oversteer too much/too harsh try limiting more the Slew Rate e.g. to 0.40 (for ultimate). For sport maybe you will have to increase it to 0.75. In any case start with what i have shared and experiment with SRL if needed.
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Iām very surprised that you have kerbs at 75 percent. And also about the quite high slew rate limitation. I canāt drive AC at the moment because my wheel gets a few updates. So I canāt test your settings. I am a little bit sceptical that, with a very stiff formula car, the kerbs settings will suit. Maybe you can tell me what the reason is behind this 2 settings
Try to turn off āResonance reductionā, you might end up even with less resonance.
I believe it was frequency filter for some problematic aftermarket wheel, but myself and few other users here observed increased noise with it on.
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@Andrew_WOT I think i have tried that in the past and there was no difference so i left it as it is 
. But now that you mention it, i ll check again to be sure, thx.
@CLAYREGAZZONI the purpose of limiting the Slew rate is to mainly tame the snap back at oversteer without sacrificing reactivness of the wheel (e.g. with adding more damping/friction). So when you start sliding the wheel will not overshoot due to the force spike, allowing more feeling and control of the countersteer. It will also allow for more progressive force buildup (not having the full strength instantly) which is more close to reality. But now that you mentioned it i remembered that the Slew Rates between sport/pro/ultimate are different so there is chance that a different value might have to be applied. I ll update my postā¦
The only other way is to use the standard gyro, but it will overdampen forces in oversteer/drift which is not pleasant, informative or realistic. We have already discussed that i think a few days ago. The CSP gyro i am using, will not do much by itself. As for the kurbs, the Slew rate might also limit them in some cases and bumping it up might be needed, but this is very subjective, you can set them anywhere you want as long as you get the feeling you want. The thing is, we might be chatting here for ages the theory and logic of these settings. Once your rig is online, give them a go and see how these work, afterwards we can discuss further.
Iāll do that. I wish you a happy new year! Stay safe and healthy 
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I also use the SLEW reduction and I get a much better feel in the FFB forces, I find them more detailed, for example the up and down on a vibrator, and also when I put one side of the wheels in the grass, I feel more the reaction when I pull myself in the grass, itās also easier to control the car when it spins, I use it between 0.30 and 0.90
@getmlh Agree with you absolutely. When i started experimenting with SRL for AC it was a game changer for me. I could now feel weight transition, suspension, tyres, etc a lot more with more resolution/detail. Finally FFB made sense to me. Still for other titles like ACC it didnāt make much difference. To avoid misunderstandings, even with the limitation of it, the wheel remains to be extremely quick/reactive and strong wanting to battle with you all the time.
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So I upgraded my to the latest TD and firmware today because I had been speaking with Shovas who told me that the latest version fixed a few issues the direct input filters were messing up with GTR2. So I upgraded and now all my previous great profiles feel dead and lacking. I have been slowly working on them all again but for assetto corsa I have nothing I can use. I am using the profile Andrew WOT shared in this forum and it was nice until the update and now the itās like the wheel feels dead/smooth if that makes sense. Any advice from anyone who knows exactly what all the update did?
Also just to mention I previous had one different change to my profile which was to put a high low latency mode and a really low slew rate just because I got hit once in a race and my wheel snapped so hard it almost broke my finger, so the only way I have found to make hard impacts not affect my wheel is to mess with these two settings. Has the update somehow made these more effective? Iām not sure but I cannot figure out what is going on with my profilesā¦
Check direct input filters. They are all at 100 percent (default). This is also the case for the existing profiles, afaik. Check out your AC profile, turn down those active filters (AC I think is using damping).
well turns out after some testing, nothing was wrong. After apparently making the first change to one of the direct input filters, I started receiving the noticeable different feedback from my wheel I remembered, and when changing it back to where it was before, they still remained. I guess after the update I just needed to change a setting to have refresh or something.
The best solution you can ask for! Whatever it is, close and reopenā¦and with a little bit of luck 
everything is back to fine. Happy to see you happy
Any reason why you use 65% strength in TD and 60% in AC?
I follow this thread for a long time. I agree with @Andrew_WOT that the new gyro is not optimal. You need to have a lot of damping to rule out oscillations. Although i believe that kunos gyro has built in damping on its own but anyway.
I think that there is the belief that 100 gain with 25 ffb per car equals 50 gain and 50 ffb per car but anyone can test this and see that this is not the case. It is easier to deduct the same by using a drift car like supra for example. I am not here to say which is better just saying that they donāt have the same outcome in terms of feeling.
To clarify i prefer gain at 100 because it gives me a heavier slower response wheel although that doesnāt mean that i canāt drive and be fast with gain at 50. I just prefer it that way.
For me and my driving style/preference it is like this:
Old gyro: problems with quite a few cars, some show cogging, others have issues with hard lock and most importantly it dampens too much countersteer that you get a crappy feeling in oversteer.
New gyro: it seems that it doesnt do much so yes it needs additional filtering in TD. Still that doesnt mean anything compared to the old gyro where the damping is added from the sim signal. At the end of the day the total filtering seems to be less with the new gyro. It all depends to what cars you are driving. I found that the settings with the new gyro are more consistent and work for all cars. The only thing that changes is the per car FFB strength.
@Van_Cauter with the 65% in TD you limit the wheelās power to a point that it wont kill you if you have compounded forces from simultaneous effects from the sim. Even if you limit the gameās strength you might end up with a lot higher instant forces in some cases, so i think it is better to have the absolute limiter (TD gain) set at a comfortable level. At the same time i have the feeling that by increasing the simās strength you amplify effects (this might be a placebo as well). Anyway there are various opinions about this, in the past i was always with 100% in TD but in the last year i reached to the conclusion that it is better for me to limit it somewhat and reach to a balance between TD and the sim strength. At the end of the day it is all a matter of personal preference. You try all available options and you choose what you think feels better.
From my point of view, (maybe placebo) can completely agree with that and the second half of your post, came to me after a lot of trying with the settings because i had and still have lots of grainy feeling and ffb spikes even at highest recon, thats why i like your settings because with slew rate limit was able to tame that down and as we chat before, we do have a very similar driving style.
My only question is why do you have the Mcpherson struts deactivated now? Felt the difference on some cars as the description in CM says.
Also gotta say that have to agree with @Andrew_WOT, just build a new PC which means im able to try different sims, and as he says, ACC is where Simucube really shines.
TD Max Force is essentially motor amperage and affects strength of bumpstops and āconstantly operatedā filters.
Just keep that in mind when starting with someoneās else profile and adjusting TD gain.
Yeah, that was my only way for now to tame down (only a bit) those āspikesā i would call them , which is weird because other sims dont provide that feeling, specially on the curbs of tracks or side of the road of maps line LA Canyons of Pacific Coast highway, even the little lights in the middle of two lanes on some maps
Public roads mod tracks, we discussed that with Phoenix (mod creator), he suggested to use street cars with soft suspension. Race tracks from official content are fine.
What about street cars on nordschleife for example, do you use same settings for all cars or do you make any change? There are some bumps or curbs that feel very very grainy even with highest recon as i mention beforeā¦ really lots of testing with this sim and specially on nordschleifeā¦ so much that i kind of gave up after trying others without much less try and error