Assetto Corsa and Simucube 2

Stefano’s explanation of “canned” effects in AC.

https://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/index.php?threads/from-the-facebook-thread.22763/page-437#post-652288
The “road effect” is totally coming from the physic engine, it’s amplifying the effect of load changes on the FF, so if the load doesn’t change (ie, the road is flat) you get nothing… it’s not a procedural noise added over the surface.
Slip effect is also coming from what the tyres are doing so, again, it’s strictly related to what it is happening.
The only effect that is 100% “canned” is the curb effect… as it is also happening on curbs that are 100% smooth.

Road feel depends on the track also, there’s tracks that are like pool tables, and then there’s tracks that have great physical mesh for the wheel to vibrate to. I have road effect at 10% but it depends on the track if it’s really needed. I’m just too lazy to change it for every track.

Anybody has some good settings they are happy with, specially for GT3 with 300 rim?

Here are my parameters, maybe they will suit you, I use a MATAMEC D-shaped wheel of 320 mm
the first one :

The second :

And my parameters CONTENT MANAGER, attention I do not use FFB TWEAKS, in continuation when you are on the track, you decrease the FFB of the car, between 30-40 according to the force that you prefer.:

Observed well my parameters

You use CM gyro then? Not the CSP one?

Save yourself the hassle, use original one. CSP “corrected” gyro requires lots of damping to reduce oscillation and violent wheel return snap back. With original one, you can get away with just 5% damping.

It seems to me, as I set it up it activates the original AC gyro, I think to activate the CM gyro it would have to have the orange line enabled/checked.

Hi guys

New SC2 Pro user here, after fiddling around for about 3 frustrating weeks not getting anywhere and reading about anything i can i finally found some settings im pretty happy with so i thought i share my settings here too.

But first, shout out to @Andrew_WOT, thanks for all your posts, helped me a great deal making progress with my own findings.

My main problem was finding settings that give me enough small details and feedback without getting too strong in corners or getting too edgy to feel what the car is doing at and over the limit.

First i tried different combinations of TD strenght, AC FFB gain and in-car gain to tone the main strenght to a good level.
Turning down TD strenght felt wrong, even tho general strenght was better, i lost dynamic range and details and it just didnt feel right.
In the end i left TD strenght at full power and adjusted AC FFB gain to such a level (only 10%) that the average in-car gain is around 100% to have the widest possible spectrum for in-car gain.

My next problem was to town down spikes and holding forces while not loosing details. That was a bitch and costs me the 3 weeks lol, Granite Devices not really being helpfull here with documentation and explenations what all the filters and settings actually do, how they work, when to use them and even worse how they react to each other.

I would have loved to use RC filter OFF but no matter what other settings i used my wheelbase made metalic clanking noises so it had to be at least on 1.
I also liked RC filter 5 and 7 but both of them lost details in one way or another. I could counteract that somewhat with higher damper/friction/inertia but then i lost details somewhere else and the wheel got sluggish.

After settling on RC filter 1 i tried to just play with damper/friction/inertia but i couldnt get anything good, anything over 10 felt terrible and below i had too much spikes.
Then the static force reduction but same here, forces went down but so did the details, so off it is.
Then thanks to Andrew :wink: i went down a rabbithole with the Ultra Low Latency Mode when i tried his settings which looked promising first but after testing some different cars and settings it also just felt just wrong (sorry, no offense).

Then i went down another rabbithole with the AC and CSP gyro, the different strengths and the Direct Input Effects. I should note that i never used any gyro with my old Thrustmaster TX, i tested it again with my SC2 just to be sure but went back to no gyro at all in the end because it just distorts the FFB imo.

But this lead me to test the DI effects for themself and turning DI effect Damping from 0% to only 5% finally took the edge of my spikes and gave me the necessary damping without taking details out of it as it happens with normal damping.

Finally something that feels good with all my test cars with only changing in-car gain where im between 72%-115%.
I test with GT86, M235i and 1M stage 3 on the Nordschleife but with my own setups. Also tested the Shutoko S14 because thats a very soft outlier which i play with 115% in-car gain now.

So happy i can finally just play and enjoy that wonderfull wheelbase instead of getting frustrated by terrible FFB. Next game is BeamNG - NOOOOOOO :slight_smile:

Here the settings i use now, maybe its helpfull for someone else who’s not happy:

If you use a new, untested version of CSP, something above 1.79 if I remember good, you can also try FFB tweaks which are part of it:
Turn steering assist into range compression. I know @Andrew_WOT is not a fan of the new gyro, he prefers the old one. The patch has also a feature for DD force, load cell pedals and will bring up a new window when racing. FFB tweaks: don’t use lut or gamma, but you can try to raise range compression. It will accentuate small forces only.
I recommend this only for formula cars, like those from Race Sim Studio. Although the link is a bit older it explains a bit the idea behind new gyro

Yeah im using CSP 1.80 Preview 1 but even 1.76 has FFB tweaks as far as i remember.

Not a fan of steering range compression in general because it distorts FFB and i also dont want multiple settings for different car types, i want one settings that works for all so changing range compression for specific cars is out of the window. And good settings should work for more than one car type imo.

I tried both CSP settings for load cell pedals and DD output force but i didnt like them. But to be fair at that point i had other settings enabled that i now know where bad so maybe taking another look at them might be good.

For now i stop fiddling with settings and do some driving lol

Agree with you on the standard gyro, it may work great with some cars but it is horrible with others and if i remember well there was some issue with the hard lock in some. Still i see you are using the CSP Gyro which is hit and miss too. Your TD settings look ok and close to what i use i think, but i suggest you to also check Slew Rate. Drop it to around 0.50 and if you feel you are losing details try bumping up the road details & curbs. That should give you better wheel reactions and more control and feel especially in oversteer/drift. Your CM strength seems rather on the low side at 10%. Try 30-40% (per car strength as you have it) with the addition of slew rate at 0.50 and see where that takes you. Another detail that really caused me a lot of frustration when trying to set FFB was the track conditions, use ideal to at least reach to good settings otherwise every time you restart the testing FFB will be different. It drove me mad for a couple of months. 3 weeks is really not much time to find the right settings, it will probably take you a lot more. I have the pro for over 3 years and still every time i try AC or a new car i might be fiddling with settings, if it does not feel right…Its a fun process but once you get how AC works and what TD can do, it should be quicker and easier.

Unless you increase min damping setting in AC, this DI Damper has only effect when car is stationary.
My advise, set it to 0 and use TD “constantly operating” Damper effect.

Fan, I am not sure how anyone with DD can use it without very heavy dose of Damper killing all details on the top? :grin:

I don’t use any damping, nor in TD nor in AC. I have TD at full torque, overall gain at 100 percent, and per car FFB between 14 and 20 percent.
Or is there a special setting you are referring to?

@Panschoin Why would slew rate be necessary? I dialed my spikes and bumps in and dont have any harsh jerks so there should be no need for slew rate.
Also why dampen the original ffb signal with slew rate and then use canned effects like road and cerbs to get an arbitrary feel back? Normaly AC’s FFB is more than good enough without added effects.

@Andrew_WOT I know you already said that in an earlier post but i think thats wrong. My AC gyro damping and min damping are both on 0 and so is my CSP damping as shown in my first post and there is definitly a difference between DI effect damping 0% and the 5% i run now, it nicely takes the spikes away without loosing details.
If i put DI effect damping on 0 and use more constantly operating damping i loose details, i dont loose details with DI effect damper but the spikes are smoothed out.

And in Simucube’s user manual on page 32 is written: “If an effect is created but the value is not actively controlled by the simulator, an empty balloon is shown”.
And i do have an empty ballon so i still believe there is some smoothing going on when driving.

Test my settings exactly as shown and run with 0%, 5% and 100% DI effect damping. 0 is harsh and spiky, 5 is pretty nice while still feeling curbs and bumps appropriatly and on 100 its super overdamped and you feel no details.

Empty balloon: effect is available, but not active
Fully filled balloon: effect is available and active

Ju can control it:
Leave TD open, so that you see all effects, and you can actually change them.
Asap you are driving the balloon should go from empty to filled

The way it was designed from Stefano’s mouth.

DAMPER_GAIN sets how strong this damper effect is… the reason it is there is because some wheel (that will go unnamed :p) screw up the damper implementation and vibrate like crazy when the car is not moving… so I had to had this value to allow to turn the damper off, or reduce the effect.

DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL is the amount of damper that is left on while driving. In other words, as the car is speeding up the amount of damper goes from DAMPER_GAIN to DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL. The reason why it is here is because some wheels are mechanically very “loose” and smooth and some users missed the old “FF DAMP” value that we had in AC in previous versions.

Having said that you are not imagining things. There was a bug (pretty sure still there) when either game or driver does not fully remove Damper effect and leaves some residual signal around adding some noise while driving, if you look up my posts it’s the reason I always set it to 0 in game and in TD, it’s just really messing up signal fidelity.
Check out this post

Windows Snipping tool works much better for capturing screen images. Or you can always go old school Alt-PrintScreen to capture active window, PrintScreen for the whole desktop screen.

Thanks for posting you two, i have already read about the damping and min damping and also about full and empty ballon but i could have sworn gyros off and changing DI damping felt different but now i just made another test and there is actually no difference, no clue whats going, maybe it really was that bug, i have to check and change the ini file.

And gyro is on 0 but off that is correct?