Unless you increase min damping setting in AC, this DI Damper has only effect when car is stationary.
My advise, set it to 0 and use TD “constantly operating” Damper effect.
Fan, I am not sure how anyone with DD can use it without very heavy dose of Damper killing all details on the top? 
I don’t use any damping, nor in TD nor in AC. I have TD at full torque, overall gain at 100 percent, and per car FFB between 14 and 20 percent.
Or is there a special setting you are referring to?
@Panschoin Why would slew rate be necessary? I dialed my spikes and bumps in and dont have any harsh jerks so there should be no need for slew rate.
Also why dampen the original ffb signal with slew rate and then use canned effects like road and cerbs to get an arbitrary feel back? Normaly AC’s FFB is more than good enough without added effects.
@Andrew_WOT I know you already said that in an earlier post but i think thats wrong. My AC gyro damping and min damping are both on 0 and so is my CSP damping as shown in my first post and there is definitly a difference between DI effect damping 0% and the 5% i run now, it nicely takes the spikes away without loosing details.
If i put DI effect damping on 0 and use more constantly operating damping i loose details, i dont loose details with DI effect damper but the spikes are smoothed out.
And in Simucube’s user manual on page 32 is written: “If an effect is created but the value is not actively controlled by the simulator, an empty balloon is shown”.
And i do have an empty ballon so i still believe there is some smoothing going on when driving.
Test my settings exactly as shown and run with 0%, 5% and 100% DI effect damping. 0 is harsh and spiky, 5 is pretty nice while still feeling curbs and bumps appropriatly and on 100 its super overdamped and you feel no details.
Empty balloon: effect is available, but not active
Fully filled balloon: effect is available and active
Ju can control it:
Leave TD open, so that you see all effects, and you can actually change them.
Asap you are driving the balloon should go from empty to filled
The way it was designed from Stefano’s mouth.
DAMPER_GAIN sets how strong this damper effect is… the reason it is there is because some wheel (that will go unnamed
) screw up the damper implementation and vibrate like crazy when the car is not moving… so I had to had this value to allow to turn the damper off, or reduce the effect.
DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL is the amount of damper that is left on while driving. In other words, as the car is speeding up the amount of damper goes from DAMPER_GAIN to DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL. The reason why it is here is because some wheels are mechanically very “loose” and smooth and some users missed the old “FF DAMP” value that we had in AC in previous versions.
Having said that you are not imagining things. There was a bug (pretty sure still there) when either game or driver does not fully remove Damper effect and leaves some residual signal around adding some noise while driving, if you look up my posts it’s the reason I always set it to 0 in game and in TD, it’s just really messing up signal fidelity.
Check out this post
Windows Snipping tool works much better for capturing screen images. Or you can always go old school Alt-PrintScreen to capture active window, PrintScreen for the whole desktop screen.
Thanks for posting you two, i have already read about the damping and min damping and also about full and empty ballon but i could have sworn gyros off and changing DI damping felt different but now i just made another test and there is actually no difference, no clue whats going, maybe it really was that bug, i have to check and change the ini file.
And gyro is on 0 but off that is correct?
As there were different iterations of settings throughout this thread, here’s my most recent ones.
I mostly racing ACC recently as FFB and physics to me is a huge step up from AC.
- Adjust in game Gain to your liking
- Need more wheel weight, add TD Friction
- Need better control of oscillation and spikes, add more TD Damper (constantly operating filter, not DirectInput)
Thanks, i give it a try tomorrow if i get some free time and happy christmas.
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To you too, and FFB feels better after eggnog. 
I know, not the best photographer out there…
Because I use the community on the smartphone it’s easier for me to open the camera, maybe that is why.
My TD settings are almost to 100 percent identical to yours: except 900/1180 and constant damping 0/5. Because you have a Pro, and I a Sport, the difference in damping is normal, if not surprisingly small.
In AC, difference is only:
gain 100/45
road 10/0
ABS 0/10 (because I don’t have in F1 cars/Formula cars)
And gyro…can be that the difference is also based on the different car classes.
Surprised you can get away with no damping at all and CM (corrected) gyro. It does work in some cars, from my understanding in just select few mods, otherwise I was just getting more oscillation and very offensive snap back when tires regain traction.
Gain 100 in game will lead to some signal clipping, it’s better to have it higher in TD and leave some headroom in AC.
I can’t get higher than 100 percent in TD🤣
Is like you say:
It’s most likely a question of the cars. I have never used an original car from AC but 1, the Ferrari SF70H (DLC). Everything else is from RSS (I like those the most)
It’s an older video, not very fast, but still gives you an idea:
and Sim dream development (Assetto Corsa mods)
https://www.assettocorsamods.org/
You didn’t get my point on the CM gain you are using. Even at 100 TD strength, with 10% (if i see your setting right) in CM you should be somehow at around 2-3NM (it is not exactly like that but anyway). So yes maybe at that strength there is not much going on, not much need for taming the forces of the 25NM DD drive and probably no need to touch the Slew rate. But if you ever decide to try forces at around 9-12 NM then maybe you will find the need for Slew rate or more damping or anything else offered by TD. Keep in mind that everything is relevant to strength and the amount of force. Also what do you mean canned effects? All the effects are canned anyway, nothing comes from telemetry. There is no difference to the quality of effects if you add higher values. Some people like more noise on road, other more on curbs etc. It is a personal preference. There is no right or wrong on how people set their FFB. By all means if you are happy with what you got, please continue using it. I just gave you some pointer as per my personal experience. The obvious thing for me is that your strength is too low and i am not sure how an SC2 pro would make much sense at that strength. But anyway as i said FFB is very subjective.
Also i think Andew is right, better keep the DI Damping at 0 and set a higher damping.
All the best.
I also think that this is by far not enough. The only solution this could work is to use high settings while driving, through per car multiplier. I have overall gain at 100.
Slew rate: with high torque slew rate can limit how much force you will encounter when having a crash, hitting a wall with full speed. While the rest of the race you won’t feel it’s there. It makes a huge difference having a crash with 10Nm per millisecond or 3Nm per millisecond (as an example).
Canned effects: I think all but kurbs are coming from the physics engine of the game. So kurbs would in my understanding then be really fake, while the rest is… kind of semiauthentic?
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Are you sure High Torque is activated? Either that or you have Hulk inside. 
EDIT: Checked your video, didn’t realize that you use FFBClip, that one will adjust per car gain multiplier, so if you want higher get rid of it and delete all previously calculated per car gains. Why do you even need it with DD wheel, it was meant to maximize signal level while avoiding clipping for weaker wheels.
As mentioned, an older video. FFB clip has a DD mode. It was helpful at the time. And yes, high torque is enabled.
Maybe you use more per car multiplier and, don’t forget, you have 25 and something, me 17.
You can see that the cars are not very heavy to drive.
Slew Rate is not dampening, it is more like compressing. It is not like the other Effects and Filters. You have to adjust it very often. Different Car, diff Track, diff FBB settings ingame and diff TD Strengh settings. But it is a very powerful Tool. Got AC an FFB-output to Motec?