Hi guys I see that you have configurations for GT cars …
any good setting for the car formula? ferrari SF-70 H?
Found missing “secret” ingredient to make feedback more rubber smooth. Unexpected side effect from Utlra Low Latency filter.
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Hi Andrew, it is intentional, not a side-effect.
Now you found why ULL filter is a very good and important filter, giving excellent rubbery feel, without introducing additional latency. This is a very special accomplishment by Tero and Mika, and a very big part of the reason why GD will not divulge how this filter works.
It is to protect their research and findings, which I fully agree with - but we are very lucky to be onboard with this DD wheel, great to be beneficiaries of the work of a team that is truly striving to reach the pinnacle of DD wheel technology.
To realise this is their first DD wheel solution, to be the leader in such a short space of time is phenomenal
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If it is intentional, this specific behavior is not documented in any way. Takes some experimentation to find out what it actually does and even then I am still not sure what and how happened?
Hope we get more clarification from GD team for making more educated decision on this filter use, including all pros and cons.
I already know that it can rob some details, you mentioned that at high torque levels it can induce instead of removing oscillation.
Knowledge is power. We need more info.
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Originally the filter was supposed to compensate for the lag of USB communications, but as we didn’t know a suitable value to use in generic case, we had to make it a slider. It is possible that we will revert it to be just a on/off checkbox once we get to analyzing the telemetry data from the users.
Thanks for response, Mika.
Can we please continue that conversation over here
Seems like there is much more than just USB communication lag fix, unless it’s unwanted side effect as I suggested. Plus different values produce different results, making it one size fits all might not be the change some of us appreciate.
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So in your settings ULL is at 5%, does the rubbery feel increase as this value gets closer to 20%? I’ve always run ULL as high as possible so I’ve not noticed any difference in feel.
Im using ULLM the Last parameter in any profile, when everything is almost perfect, with ULLM I can fine tune and save profile forever.
Edit: with a value of 17 on every profile at start, then fine tune at the end
Same here, I’ve always set it to the maximum I can without introducing oscillations.
AC has Gyro - much better tool to control oscillation, don’t need ULL for that.
But ULL also adds that rubbery feeling by removing some harshness, and yes, the higher ULL, the smoother it feels, losing some fine details in process.
Not sure this is by design though. But we have no idea how that thing works, so treat it as a “mystery stew”.
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Ah okay, I only play iRacing.
Can’t anyone give me a Formula 1 car setting?
Has anyone ever had the problem that the entire FFB was gone from switching from the Qualli to the Race? Steering and buttons continued to work - unfortunately you can’t fix that in the race session either. The race was unfortunately over for me
Hi guys
Loving these settings (car control is phenomenal! and feel is pretty good too) so thought I would share with you all. works great for all types of cars. This is “it” for me. I find I am no longer messing with the settings and just enjoying the driving (many, many laps of the nordschleife in different cars )
I think the car control is great because I’m not using any of the settings that introduce the rubbery feel but have also removed the harsh spikes using the peak & notch filter
feel free to play with damping and inertia to taste. enjoy!!
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I’ll give those a shot later, azerpe, I really hope they suit me because I’ve been having some issues with AC since I received my unit on tuesday, and as a DD newbie it’s a bit worrying!
I’ve been using andrew_wot’s settings (the ones with the gyro enabled) and in almost every car I drive the FFB needs to be turned down substantially, usually from 100 to 60 in the per car controls, I would say from a starting point it’s a bit over twice the strength of the default ACC profile in TD, so I’m wondering if I’ve done something wrong. ALong with the strength, the bumps and off-tracks feel very hard and sound like something is going on with the motor, and the last problem is my biggest problem and it’s hard to describe but I’ll give it a go:
When I transition from a long right bend to a long left bend, sort of moving the weight of the car from right to left, changing the grip location and moving the wheel from left to right of center, during that transition period there is a knock, or what feels like a knock, almost like when the force has to change direction it is very hard and sudden in my hands, and it turns what would be a very nice experience into something that makes me think something is wrong with the base. I will have to play a bit of iRacing today and some ACC and see if I can recreate it, but I will try the other settings above tuned without the gyro and see what I think.
My global in game FFB multiplier is at 35%, if you need to lower FFB fir each and every car, just lower global instead untill most of them feel right at 100% car multiplier.
@azerpe, Peaking and notch filter was originally designed to eliminate resonanse, noise frequency. I believe it’s going away as there is resonace reduction filter now and hardly anyone fully understand and use this one.
https://granitedevices.com/wiki/SimuCUBE_Firmware_User_Guide#Peaking_and_Notch_Filter
pretty sure if you turn gyro on / off even at the same settings, you’ll notice a substantial difference.
that’s what gyro does.
Is global FFB multiplier different than gain? If so, can I find that setting in CM?
@wayne_kerr_racing I’m actually finding the default setup preferable to what I’ve tried in the last few pages, is turning on the gyro something I should just do regardless of my settings?
There are so many variables here and it’s really hard to know what is what. For example, there are two damping settings in truedrive, the damping setting and then the direct input damping section, and also damping in the CM settings, and also the dynamic damping when you enable gyro. I am getting so lost here lol.
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Same thing, global gain, and gain per car, they act as multipliers, the final gain is multiplication of two.
Ah I gotcha, I was thinking that you might have a setting that starts off every car at 50%. With TD at 100% and CM at 35% gain, if I hop into a car and leave the FFB at 100 it’s pretty darn strong, driving an M1 around the nordscheife was like wrestling a bear. I would say it’s over twice as strong as other game presets I’ve used.
One other thing, which of the last two sets of settings are you using currently? From just looking at it it looks like your last two posts have a lot of differences in the settings and values, although it just might look that way from a noob’s point of view.