The true beauty of SC2 and True Drive software, flexibility, you can find settings for anyone’s taste.
I’ll try to play with friction as some cars indeed have that SAT jerk when tires grip after slide.
Unfortunately the only way to slow down that wheel kick back when tires start gripping is extra dampening, not friction, makes sense as Dampening is dynamic force and increases proportionally to the force applied.
There is one more thing to play with. AC by default is only using DirectInput dampening when stationary, you can override that by setting Minimum Damper Force to non zero value.
just wanted to share some AC settings that I’m really happy with. They aren’t perfect but the closest I’ve gotten to it for this sim on the SC2 pro. Feels good for both road and race cars. Worth a shot if nothing shared here so far has appealed to your tastes
Now you found why ULL filter is a very good and important filter, giving excellent rubbery feel, without introducing additional latency. This is a very special accomplishment by Tero and Mika, and a very big part of the reason why GD will not divulge how this filter works.
It is to protect their research and findings, which I fully agree with - but we are very lucky to be onboard with this DD wheel, great to be beneficiaries of the work of a team that is truly striving to reach the pinnacle of DD wheel technology.
To realise this is their first DD wheel solution, to be the leader in such a short space of time is phenomenal
If it is intentional, this specific behavior is not documented in any way. Takes some experimentation to find out what it actually does and even then I am still not sure what and how happened?
Hope we get more clarification from GD team for making more educated decision on this filter use, including all pros and cons.
I already know that it can rob some details, you mentioned that at high torque levels it can induce instead of removing oscillation.
Knowledge is power. We need more info.
Originally the filter was supposed to compensate for the lag of USB communications, but as we didn’t know a suitable value to use in generic case, we had to make it a slider. It is possible that we will revert it to be just a on/off checkbox once we get to analyzing the telemetry data from the users.
Thanks for response, Mika.
Can we please continue that conversation over here
Seems like there is much more than just USB communication lag fix, unless it’s unwanted side effect as I suggested. Plus different values produce different results, making it one size fits all might not be the change some of us appreciate.
So in your settings ULL is at 5%, does the rubbery feel increase as this value gets closer to 20%? I’ve always run ULL as high as possible so I’ve not noticed any difference in feel.
AC has Gyro - much better tool to control oscillation, don’t need ULL for that.
But ULL also adds that rubbery feeling by removing some harshness, and yes, the higher ULL, the smoother it feels, losing some fine details in process.
Not sure this is by design though. But we have no idea how that thing works, so treat it as a “mystery stew”.
Has anyone ever had the problem that the entire FFB was gone from switching from the Qualli to the Race? Steering and buttons continued to work - unfortunately you can’t fix that in the race session either. The race was unfortunately over for me
Loving these settings (car control is phenomenal! and feel is pretty good too) so thought I would share with you all. works great for all types of cars. This is “it” for me. I find I am no longer messing with the settings and just enjoying the driving (many, many laps of the nordschleife in different cars )
I think the car control is great because I’m not using any of the settings that introduce the rubbery feel but have also removed the harsh spikes using the peak & notch filter
feel free to play with damping and inertia to taste. enjoy!!
I’ll give those a shot later, azerpe, I really hope they suit me because I’ve been having some issues with AC since I received my unit on tuesday, and as a DD newbie it’s a bit worrying!
I’ve been using andrew_wot’s settings (the ones with the gyro enabled) and in almost every car I drive the FFB needs to be turned down substantially, usually from 100 to 60 in the per car controls, I would say from a starting point it’s a bit over twice the strength of the default ACC profile in TD, so I’m wondering if I’ve done something wrong. ALong with the strength, the bumps and off-tracks feel very hard and sound like something is going on with the motor, and the last problem is my biggest problem and it’s hard to describe but I’ll give it a go:
When I transition from a long right bend to a long left bend, sort of moving the weight of the car from right to left, changing the grip location and moving the wheel from left to right of center, during that transition period there is a knock, or what feels like a knock, almost like when the force has to change direction it is very hard and sudden in my hands, and it turns what would be a very nice experience into something that makes me think something is wrong with the base. I will have to play a bit of iRacing today and some ACC and see if I can recreate it, but I will try the other settings above tuned without the gyro and see what I think.
My global in game FFB multiplier is at 35%, if you need to lower FFB fir each and every car, just lower global instead untill most of them feel right at 100% car multiplier.