I have WRC9 as well and was just starting to get into it (and liked it) but then 10 got released and now 9 won’t even boot on my computer. There is discussion about the problem on Steam, but I’m just sticking with 10 until I feel compelled to go back again.
I do not have a sequential shifter in my setup yet. I’ve had my eye on 2 different models and can not decide which one to get, so for the time being I’m using the paddle shifters. Are you saying that a sequential will not work on 10 or that it will not work in conjunction with another shifting device?
A number of people have commented on the graphics and sound in regards to 10. To be honest, I’m not sure why. The graphics cranked up to maximum are the best I have seen in any rally game I’ve played (and I have all the current ones). On a triple monitor setup the landscapes look gorgeous and the sense of elevation is excellent. Maybe, people aren’t crazy about it because it’s generally just vegetation and forests? In terms of sound, it’s not the best, but I don’t think it’s the worst.
I have to admit, at first I didn’t really like the game. I don’t know why. Maybe it just seemed like the “same old thing” or something, but these days it is the only rally game I’m playing.
In regards to FFB on the steering wheel, yes it can feel floaty in the center of the wheel and it’s definitely not the most realistic, but the NLR setup I have compensates for it (imo) and as I said, it’s the only rally game on the market that supports under/ over steer and I can not believe how much of a difference it makes. Feeling the back end slide out when using a handbrake around a turn is just plain glorious!
As a side note, I’m only commenting on the actual driving part of the game. I don’t play any of the career modes in any racing games. I just have not interest in them so I can’t comment on that in comparison to other racing games. I also have no interest in multiplayer. I do however have interest in VR and really wish WRC10 supported it.
The graphics in 9, Fe dust behind the car, is much better in 9. Engine sounds aswell. FFB is very good. You have to start 9 through epic launcher, it won’t start otherwise. AFAIK you need to be logged in and online to race it. Concerning shifting: you can of course use sequential shifter. What you can’t is use a sequential shifter AND a push pull device at the same time. Rally cars have normally both. If you have a push pull device you can use it but then not the sequential shifter. I hope is understandable. WRC9 doesn’t have that annoying auto throttling from 10. But both are way better than the dirt rally series. I have BJ shifter and handbrake and very happy with it. Plus a dedicated rally wheel, which is great. I love rally a lot: how the starting rain change the feedback, the car behaves on snow, with realistic damage active steering loss… just amazing
in WRC 10, if I go off road in a long ditch (belgium rally for example), the wheel oscillates so roughly, from lock to lock, without stopping, it could break my arms so easily if I had not pressed the e-stop and if I had not removed my hands.
This game is a danger for any user. I will pass it if no fix. There is something weird and not controlled in this game for the DD power.
DR2.0 has no oscillations like that.
Use between 35 and max 40% of a sport. Use static force reduction, so you don’t have to fight the wheel in long corners. MOST IMPORTANT: reduce in game “force of collision, the one after engine FFB” to max 5. I wrote it before: I don’t have to brake an arm to know I hitted a tree.
i will test the ditch on Belgium rally, if I have always oscillation, I can’t play the game and risk a massive injury, cause in a ditch the wheel move left/right, lock to lock, without stoping and it will break my hands.
I suggest you to test the ditch in the Belgium rally, but be aware and becareful, you can lose your arms and hands with a massive injury.
edit : it’s the same, it changes only vibrations.
I can’t play the game with a massive risk of injury in a ditch. There is an issue with DD in this game.
Don’t play this game.
There is no such thing like a dangerous simulation. What can cause injuries are wrong settings.
You can use the Bakkerud 37 preset for WRC 9 and 10. Adjust the in-game slider for collision correctly, that is all.
If you post both, TD and in-game, it would be easier to find a possible source of the problem
the Collision is only a Vibration setting.
I suggest you to test a ditch in Belgium in WRC 10,but becareful, it can break your arms in less than 2 seconds, seriously.
EDIT:
Go in the ditch, slowly put only two wheels into th ditch, but BE CAREFUL, it can break your arms, the wheel will start to go from left to right (full lock to full lock) at the max speed, without stopping.
I REPEAT, be careful if you test this, it can break your arms, I’m lucky I’m not injuried.
This game is a murderer for your arms. Don’t play it.
I drive WRC 9 and 10 and never had such an issue. How much torque do you use? And engine is a vibration setting too. If I have it at higher levels each shifting produces a force at my sequential shifter. So I have to turn it down aswell.
did you try to replicate the issue where I have found it ? cause your setting doesn’t work.
My settings are always the same, in all the games, and it works for every games except WRC, the issue is 100% WRC game.
No, I didn’t. Why should I go into a simulation, looking for a specific ditch that I have to hit with a specific car to recreate a situation you describe as very dangerous??
It seems that you have all of the vibration settings very high, where I have them very low. This explains your problems. Here some basic information:
WRC 10 Vibrations (most should be turned down or set to 0)
Most vibrations will muddy and overwhelm the FFB with canned effects. They are sent, together with FFB, directly to the DD
Your assumption that vibration settings have nothing to do with FFB, in this case, is wrong
If the Game sends 100% force in every ditch or bump, thats the way It is made so your safest approach is to lower Overall FFB on True Drive until you get a strength that you can hold/tolerate the steering wheel forces
Dont be afraid of trying 2, 4, 6Nm forces on TD, as long as the force of the simucube can move your rim it will be enough for you to notice everything
the problem is my settings are good for me, lower I don’t like, and if I have bought a SC2 it’s to use a high FFB.
The issue is with the game. It’s the only one like that, a real danger.
Ok I update myself, WRC 9 seems ok, without any issue, I have the same settings, or almost, and there is any issue for the moment offroad in a ditch, the issue seems only in WRC 10.
And WRC 9 has bettergraphics and better framerate with my triple, so I will play WRC9 instead of WRC 10.
Torque alone isn’t a sign of quality. What makes the Simucube 2 so special is the precision, the ability to deliver torque within crazy short time, that the whole system is packed in a small cube, made from the best materials. To say I bought 25 Nm now I want to use it whenever and for whatsoever ain’t a good way.
Fe your WRC settings: 50%is too much, way too much. Andreas Bakeruud, a professional rallycross driver, has torque at 37%. Just to make it clear: WRC 9 and 10 both use the same FFB idea, where vibration is part of the FFB you experience at the wheel. If you have collision at 100 % you will receive massive, very harsh and also very fast spikes. Ending up in a ditch is (in FFB language) close to a collision. You are abruptly stopped, a lot of energy is involved…and there you go. Driving in Finland at almost 200km, and you find yourself wrapped around a tree, this will be a terrible experience with your settings.
…
I wrote about this before. WRC 9 has better physics, sounds and graphics. Downside is the lack of online rallies, the whole online part is bad.
I want to use the setting I want, and with all the games it’s ok, in WRC 10 there is a weird oscillations + wheel rotation issue. Even if I put 0% for the vibrations, the issue is always there, it’s related to the torque, and there is a massive issue in a ditch, when the wheels are offroad like in the screenshot posted.
In wrc 9 for the moment I don’t have this issue, like if there was a max torque limiter to prevent the wheel rotation issue. But I need to play more WRC 9, cause I didn’t play it very much to find the issue.
I have isssue, if I use my gamepad I have normal performance, but as soon I use my SC2 pro, I have half performance, low framerate, and if I press my gamepad, the normal performance is back.
I have installed the 2022.7 last month, last time I have played with the previous firmwire version all was fine.
