This is not a BISS C encoder. The BISS C has less pins.
I would suggest disconnecting the encoder cable from the motor.
Take the 4 screws off of the back encoder housing. If the cover doesn’t come off easy tap it with a mallet.
Be sure not to let the cover dangle unsupported so you do not damage the wiring.
Take a picture of the encoder. Get a shot of the label on the encoder if possible.
We will need to adjust your Granity settings for the encoder and the Amps. You have the Amps set to high for the small Mige.
If you are in the USA we should have a phone conversation. I can help you get up and running if you follow my instructions.
Will watch good o’l Barry @ Sim Racing Garage do it first so I know what I’m looking at.
Should not be a problem.
Famous last words of a Bomb disposal expert as he cut the red, no black, no yello!!!
I would suggest to try the quadrature encoder setting first, as you have already tried the other options that have been sold in Simucube kits with Mige motors.
Look what I did while moving my rig to gain better access to my wheel base. Forgetting that I had not gone an bought longer mini USB cables due to getting a bit of snow here.
I drove down Island and dropped the board off at an electronic repair shop. He was not confident in getting it repaired, but I asked him to give it a try. In the mean time I am looking at my options if the board is NFG.
Buy a new SC controller board.
Try to find a functioning used board.
Buy a different brand of controller. Recommendations?
Start from scratch.
so its a Heidenhain SinCos encoder. Crazy expensive, but also accurate. Unfortunately also very easy to break electronically. The SinCos settings you showed would be correct for this encoder, so the original trouble is with the encoder itself or the wiring.
Looking at the picture above of the encoder it looks like the encoder is bent to one side.
Maybe it is an optical illusion?
If it indeed is bent to the side I would suspect the encoder is damaged.
That sucks that you broke the USB connector. Let your repair guys know that it takes a high temp soldering iron to solder on these boards. The board truly acts like a big heat sink.
Hey there @Speed_Monkey. I’m fairly certain that you have my old motor. I sold it a couple of years ago but think I recognize that encoder and its 3D printed spacer. Also the enclosure sure looks familiar I don’t have much information saved as I built that OSW in something like 2017, but do have a couple things. I know I have a pinout for the encoder if that would help.
Also I think @Joe is correct and it does appear the encoder is bent. In order to make that encoder work with the Mige I designed and 3d printed a threaded adapter to connect the encoder to the motor (this was before the days of easily purchased/bundled encoder upgrades). If indeed the back of the motor housing was removed and the encoder was bumped with enough force the printed piece could have broken. It was plenty strong enough for me to use for many hours, but is a potential point of failure. That might explain why the motor kinda works but kinda doesn’t. If I recall, it’s a relative encoder (terminology?) which means you have to rotate the wheel manually to find the index point, unlike others (absolute?) where the encoder is ‘smart’ enough to know where the zero/index point is and will rock the wheel automatically to find it’s current rotation amount.
I can try and help if you’d like. Maybe take it off the message board so as to not clutter things up? Feel free to shoot me a private message.
I don’t have much information saved as I built that OSW in something like 2017, but do have a couple things. I know I have a pinout for the encoder if that would help.