the same problems reappeared again for me tonight, at first I tried to roll back to 2020.10 and I got the message “firmware update error, try turning off and on the base”, I tried to do so without success. updated to 2021.9, same update error. I thought well, at this point let’s go back to 2022.2, same story, only this time rebooting the base allowed to get rid of the error. so I tried to give it a go and it gave me a horrible and grinding ffb, at which point I really thought I had fried the base. turned off and on the pc and got rid of the terrible grinding (with that I mean a feeling of marbles and stones inside the motor, not just subtle noises) but I am back at square 1. right now I am in the process of reinstalling win10 from scratch in the hope it will solve something, otherwise I will have to open a ticket and send back my sc2 pro bought less than a month ago. I almost wish I stayed with my trusted Sport v1 and usb wheel at this point.
any idea about those issues @Mika? should I be worried about the update error?
Okay…I did some more testing.
I’m sad to report, but the problem ist back.
I used the same settings as yesterday.
But I’ve observed something. If i start the motor frech (and the motor is “cold” - it doesn’t run overnight)…everything is fine…if I drive for sometime…it comes back.
In my original supportcall, i told your staff member that it worked. If I recall my testing at this time, I only tested after a fresh cold start.
Do you have any other ideas of what I can do. Sadly i don’t have access to another unit, so i can’t dismiss a hardware-issue.
This comes due to this:
(from the 2021.9 release notes).
Older fw versions are not able to be used with Simucube 2 units currently in production.
no, see above.
A couple of questions, just so I fully understand compatibility.
@Mika are you saying that all units manufactured after week 36/2021 are only compatible with TD versions 2021.9 or later whereas older units are more ‘open’ to use all of the TD versions?
Yes, that is true.
A manufacturer of an electronic component just announced last summer, that “Hi, sorry to report but we have cancelled all your confirmed orders and we do not know when the next deliveries are going to be”. This forced us to find alternative supplier, which we did, but the tuning of the servo drive had to be changed slightly in order to make it work as good as the original component.
lost a few hours reinstalling win10 from scratch today, the noise/electric buzz is still present as before, so that must be a TD/wheel base problem. what should I do?
Its very difficult to analyze the issue here. Please make a support ticket if you need further assistance.
hey Mika, I’ve done some testing tonight and turns out that noise/buzz/vibration thing only appears with TD filters enabled, while running a TD profile with no damper/friction/inertia - all at 0% - along with 0% di effects do not cause any of those issues. also, setting high recon values or playing with the bandwith limit does not help at all at reducing the issue. all of that applies for any sim.
could that be solely due to some TD to Sc2 communication problem, an USB problem related to the cable/Sc2 back connection or maybe a faulty PSU? keep in mind all those problems appeared one day out of the blue when it worked fine untill that day (for 2 weeks that is…)
I’m just trying to help because I really wouldn’t want to return the base for assistance even though it is still under warranty.
thanks.
Thats sound intressting. I have to Test it too
The damping/friction/inertia filters cause current to be driven to the motor to cause the smooth torque effects, so if anything is going on with encoder or motor drive electronics, they would only show when there is some torque being generated.
But, just how non-smooth is it? We haven’t had any similar reports recently.
basically, when not ingame, by turning the wheel left/right, even slowly, I can feel something like micro-steps in the rotation, not as generated by the magnets inside the base but as the wheel is powered by belts, if that makes sense. ingame, the buzz effect is felt very clearly when turning the wheel left/right fast as in the last chicane at Barcellona for example.
I was thinking it could be a problem of “dirty current” at my house, given that lately I had some interferences in the tv/hifi audio, so I was looking at something like this if it can be of any help, and off course not being harmful to the Sc2 :
I would like to add, in my case the buzzing feeling is coming under high loads when the wheels of the virtual racing cars are loaded.
As I mentioned before…in my case it only occurs after I drive for a weile.
Im curious if the powerplug-think helps.
The power supplies are regulated switching power supplies with rather large output capacitors for filtering, and the power draw from the PSU is digitally controlled by the servo drive, so it is very unlikely and almost impossible that the quality of the mains power would somehow have a measurable effect.
But anything is possible, as we already know that the unimplemented directinput inertia effect (the calculation does not do anything) has a difference in the driving feel according to @SuperMonaco_GP 
Cool, it took another person opinion and more than one year to take care of messy Direct Input filters!!!
I can show you the part of the of the code of the wheel base that calculates the inertia effect.
switch (ef->type) {
case UsbEffect::inertia:
// effect not implemented, do not do anything
break;
}
And, I might have mixed up @Alfye20 and @SuperMonaco_GP in this case. I apologize if that is the case.
Pretty sure SuperMonaco_GP meant Constantly Operating Filter Inertia as “TD filter”, there is no DI Inertia slider in SW as far as I can see.
well, I admit I feel dumb right now…all the vibrations were apparently caused by the slipping of the inner clamp around the main shaft. I installed the simracingbay extension and I guess I didn’t tighten the bolts enough so that they lasted for a bit and then they started to give that sense of buzz under load. I took the chance to do a clean up of win10 in the meantime, let’s put it this way 
(luckly I didn’t purchase the new power strip, and didn’t waste anybody’s time making an assistance ticket)
Sounds good buddy. I think I will tighten these screws. Have I done something wrong?
Could you do some testing for me?
I’m curious. Is this working, even when the unit is warm?
In my case, the problem only starts after I’m driving for a while.