Most of the button assignments will stay consistant - buttons nearest to thumb etc, but there is no way to really be completely inter-operable.
I see. Maybe this subject could be improved somehow by simucube software? Some kind of semi - programmable button identification?
Thats a great feature on VirPil software (flight gear)
IIRC Program reads inputs as physical then you can remap that as Logical inputs by firmware rewrite, all my grips have same button numbers ( when possible)
Another great perk on VirPil software is that you can change device VID/PID and Windows device Name, so Windows and other apps sees like whatever hardware you want, just match axis and buttons order and there your go! Thrustmaster T.A.R.G.E.T. sofware now sees my VirPil joy like a TM Warthog!
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Thatâs impresive.
It works with separate USB controllers but will it work with various wireless wheels connected to PC via Simucube base?
It would be useful if TD could allow remapping wireless buttons.
That will most likely not be implemented. Too much confusion, as the wireless wheel builders are taking care of the fact that most of the controls already stay in consistent locations.
I agree with Lee.
Mika I think more confusing is remapping in-game after changing wheel rim.
Please consider this carefully with the team.
Did your wheel arrive and how much time did it take ?
Hi Rune,
I placed my order on January 2 and received the wheel on the 29th
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Fanatec Mclaren v2 wheel with DD adaptor from SimRacingMachines
It is a good GT3 wheel with plenty of functionsâŚ
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[For Sale]:
Bentley GT3 replica wheel made by SSRG
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Nice one! Do the 3 rotary switches work ok with the conversion kit?
Hi @Stevo. The top 2 rotaries work as youâd expect, as both a pulse input (the most useful) and an axis output (like a joystick). The middle rotary is not quite as great. It works only as an axis output so for most sims you need an aftermarket software like JoytoKey to translate it into something more useful. I donât bother using the middle rotary since it gives me enough inputs without (for ACC). The tiny black button to the left of the middle rotary also works as a discreet input but havenât needed to map it. Still a really great wheel though (and a bargain at the price even with the converter). Hope this helps.
With my button mapping on this pic⌠Top right rotary is TC1. Push on funky switch brings up Pit HUD Menu. Rotating funky = cycles HUD displays.
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Great, thanks for the reply @RedTerrier. I like what you have done with your button mapping. And I agree with you, it is a very good value option. I am looking for more of a GT style option for GT3 racing, and I have always fancied this wheel. I will consider this option now for my SC2. Currently I have the previous gen 911 GT3-R wheel by SimLine. It is an awesome wheel, super top notch quality and impossible to fault (I am very fussy with a keen eye for detail). However, it would be nice to not have the top of the steering wheel blocking part of my in-car dash display sometimes. Other than that I love the wheel. But I will consider the McLaren GT3 with the conversion kit now also. Cheers for your replyâŚStevo.
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Hi @Stevo. That is a great set-up you have there 
. I also have an Fi-Tech custom wheel based on a Sparco 310. It is an excellent wheel but cost many times the price of the converted Fanatec McLaren wheel. The McLaren is a good wheel for sure. The quality is better than the price suggests. The buttons are all good and the rotaries too. The paddle shift (now it is magnetic in V2) is fine. The clutch paddles are a bit âplasticâ but I donât use them. You can tell the difference in quality for sure between the Fanatec and a custom wheel built around a real Sparco, but to be honest when I am racing it is plenty rigid enough for my SC2 and works far better than I expected. I was pleasantly surprised at how good it was. It wonât be up to the standards of your SimLine or an Fi-Tech, but for a GT3 wheel (the LCD works too with Fanaleds software) it is a good buy.
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If that wheel was offered in wireless i would get one.
Sorry, I also have this very annoying resonance, but which washers are we talking about? Should they be removed, where are they?
Thank you
