Could be that just battery occasionally losing contact issue?
Open battery compartment and check if it sits tight there, may be try some contact cleaner too.
This button box is only a few weeks old and the battery is very secure and the contacts are clean. I have had TrueDrive crash a bunch of times tonight so I’m thinking reinstalling it and starting fresh. I’ve noticed everytime I disconnect the wireless wheel the renable torque button on TD greys out and I have to reset everything to go back to using my wired wheel.
I checked battery contacts aswell - no changes. Just for information - I dont have any problems with TD freezing. Regarding TD button greys out - i believe its separate issue.
kevinloh, for me it like that: i want to shift, i press paddle - nothing happens, i press paddle immediately again - paddle works.
Some time ago i looked event log just after misshift happened, there were only battery voltage report and occasionally “RSSI Low” message, but connections stays 100% all the time. I will definitely post log here if i managed to catch that issue again.
I had a case of missing connection yesterday, after a very long time of no problems (I might have not noticed a missed shift here or there). I couldn’t shift for a couple of seconds. Lucky the connection got back just before the corner, so I could quickly downshift.
What can we do when that happens? Turn the wheel on / off? Hold the paddle shifters to initiate the connection? I wanna know how to save a race when that happens.
Is it a once-per-session kind of thing or does it persist throughout a session? For me, when the issue occurs it persists from when I turn on the wheel base until I reconnect the wheel. My issue has been occurring since the devices were new, so I doubt it had anything to do with the battery.
For me Its once-per-session or even once-every-few-days. Like i said before its only happens for split-second, next time i pressing paddle - it works fine. BUT once or twice (in a 3 months period) paddle just stopped working completely and only reset helped. I really hope Simucube team can help with it, for now its looks like only way to fix it - get wired wheel.
Installed fresh battery and ran it for 3hrs tonight and didnt experience any misshifts, True Drive is still reporting 3.54v on fresh cells which seems low but I will continue to use this week and report of anymore isssues.
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Can you tell what battery you installed? Same as original (but just new) or something different? Marking or picture would be great.
The brand I ordred is Tyrone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K8G2QBM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They all meter out at 3.67v but TD still only recognizes them at 3.53v, I haven’t had any issues since changing but I will let you know if that changes.
Issue still persists with TrueDrive 2020.3. Just raced with original battery, TD reports as 3.62v, in 1 hour race i got 2 misshifts. I will race tomorrow with new battery (which TD reports as 3.52v). Hope that change will help.
Actually i also have same problem, well not all the time. It was Daytona in iRacing and all miss-shiftes several times through 1h and all in one same place 
sounds very strange, but it’s like it is. Also Ascher’s button plate. But i have broken antenna on buttonplate and signal strengh is usually not more then 25%. I thought it’s battery related and also changed it, but made no difference. And as said before. Only 488GTE at Daytona same place all the time.
Probably for you this is caused by the broken antenna.
We are investigating the issue, however we have not yet found a way for the software to go into any extra slow mode as such mode that would be percetably slow does not exist in software.
Happy to hear GD is investigating. I experienced skipped/delayed inputs again last night, debug log attached. log.txt (7.8 KB)
The problem went away after I restarted my F28 wheel. If there’s anything else I can do to help with the investigation, do tell.
I havent experienced the issue since changing the battery last week, for the guys that change battery please post if issue still persists and what brand battery you used.
I done two 1-hour races (plus practice, etc) with this battery https://www.amazon.com/LS14250-Water-Meter-Electricity-Battery/dp/B081RJM1ZX/ref=sr_1_11?crid=VRTILSYJIIRM&dchild=1&keywords=saft+ls14250+3.6v+battery&qid=1585851071&sprefix=saft+ls%2Caps%2C249&sr=8-11
Didnt have misshifts since changing. Need to test for more time, obviously.
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I also have this problem and manage to reduce it significaly by pointing the antenna from SC2 toward the bottom.
You may want to try. (Also occured with both F28-SC and B16L-SC)
What is the latest news and solution?
I have the same issue last 2 Weeks, with f28 sc with simucube2 (latest td) . I keep missing shift up /down and it happens randomly.
My battery shows 3.58 and signal 100%
Please give me some advise
@kevinloh are the delayed inputs evident in games or just in the True Drive software button indicators?
If there are users that seem to have that “delayed all buttons” mode, please paste a debug event log to us.
Both - in game and in True Drive.