I’ve had a Simucube 2 Sport with an Ascher Racing F28-SC for about a month now. Occasionally, TD and the sim wouldn’t register button or paddle inputs from my wheel when I press them at normal speed, despite the connection showing 100%. They would register if I hold them longer by a few tenths of a second, but this really messes up my rhythm. I’ve missed many gear shifts because of this especially at the end of a long straight where you have to downshift rapidly.
I tried all combinations of restarting the wheel base, wheel, TD, PC, none of it worked. The only thing that did the trick was to disconnect the wireless wheel and reconnect it in TD.
Interesting report. What do you mean by reconnecting in True Drive?
Hold paddless pressed for 5 seconds and the wheel disconnects, and after waiting for a few seconds, reconnecting by holding paddles pressed should achieve a valid cycle for the connection.
I meant doing it via the wireless wheel tab in TD. I hit “disconnect current device” and then hold the paddle shifters for 1s to reconnect the wheel again.
I’ve very occasionally had similar issues (SC2 Sport / F28-SC) with 100% signal strength. Disabling bluetooth in the Windows control panel seemed to fix it for me. 99% of the time it’s fine even with Windows bluetooth enabled though…
Twicenow I have had my paddle shifters/buttons completely stop working mid race with a wireless B16-M. I am starting to lose confidence in the whole wireless system. Both times it has been in iracing, I have had to pul over mid-race and toggle the power switch to the ascher wheel to get it to start working again, since it was mid race I have not been able to see the status of truedrive but I will check next time. The battery voltage 3.57v but I just noticed occasionally it will show 3.4xV if the wheel sits idle for a while.
I bought it about a month ago directly from ascher and have used it 4-7hrs total turning it off after each use, I may have left it on overnight once or twice but overall minimal use. Not sure why it blipped 3.4v on the main TD page the one time, it may have been a fluke because its always in the 3.57-3.59v. Also the signal is always at 100% and I have no other bluetooth connected to PC.
I just checked the voltage of the battery with a Fluke multimeter and it is reading 3.66VDC while truedrive is reading 3.58v so the battery appears to be healthy.
Steps to get a handle on this: Wait for any skipped inputs. Immediately when you have an occurrence, go to the last tab in True Drive, click “download debug event log” and paste all the content here.
I have exact same issue with SC2 Pro and F28 Ascher wheel. Occasionally wheel will miss shift (can be upshift and downshift aswell) but if i press paddle again in few moments - it works as usual. It happens about 1 time in 3 hours or so. I tried almost everything i could find - disabled bluetooth in windows, removed all other wireless devices, changed SC2 cables, i even contacted Martin Ascher himself and he send me another pair of paddle shifters! (big thanks to him). No luck, seems like i missing shifts again (need to test longer to proof it 100%). Connections stays 100% all the time, no strange events in debug log. Most of the time wheel and base stays off, i only turn it on while racing.
Sounds like the exact same thing, I had a F28-SC for a few weeks before selling it recently but I cant remember if it was B16-M or the F28-SC this happened to the first time. It was a few weeks ago but I want to say the bug corrected itself without toggling the power the first time and I kinda thought it was a fluke. This week it happened in the middle of a intense battle and I kind of freaked out because I was stuck in third gear during the long straight at watkins, I ended up pulling over and flicking the little dipswitch to get it back. I race in VR so its hard to see what TD is doing midrace. I really hope we can replicate this and get a debug as I fear these sparatic bugs will be hard to track down. I am afraid to do another race with this buttonbox for the time being. I ordered some new batteries to try but I doubt it will help.
I got stuck in gear once or twice too, paddle just stoped working and only swithcing wheel on/off helped. But it happens very rarely, more often paddles just misshifts. But i cant replicate it on demand.
For you guys, do you have to hold the paddles a bit longer or it doesn’t work no matter how long you hold them? For me, they would work if held for like 0.5s longer, but it seriously messes up with your operation when you don’t expect it.
What I’m trying to understand by starting this thread is whether this is a problem with TD or the bluetooth module in SC2/wireless wheel. I know it’s definitely not the sim since I get it in different titles.
I think i just had it happen again for a split second.
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3566
Wireless: Uptime : 309
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3565
Wireless: Uptime : 310
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3565
Wireless: Uptime : 311
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3480<---------------------
Wireless: Uptime : 312
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3564
Wireless: Uptime : 313
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3562
Wireless: Uptime : 314
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3564
Wireless: Uptime : 315
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3565
Wireless: Uptime : 316
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3566
Wireless: Uptime : 317
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3568
Wireless: Uptime : 318
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3565
Wireless: Uptime : 319
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3564
Wireless: Uptime : 320
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3565
Wireless: Uptime : 321
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3566
Wireless: Uptime : 322
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3565
Wireless: Uptime : 323
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3565
Wireless: Uptime : 324
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3564
Wireless: Uptime : 325
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3565
Wireless: Uptime : 326
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3565
Wireless: Uptime : 327
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3565
Wireless: Uptime : 328
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3565
Wireless: Uptime : 329
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3566
Wireless: Uptime : 330
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3566
Wireless: Uptime : 331
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3566
Wireless: Uptime : 332
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3564
Wireless: Uptime : 333
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3566
Wireless: Uptime : 334
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3566
Wireless: Uptime : 335
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3564
Wireless: Uptime : 336
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3487<-------------------
Wireless: Uptime : 337
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3565
Command: Event log download request : 0
Wireless: Uptime : 338
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3566
Wireless: Uptime : 339
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3565
Wireless: Uptime : 340
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3564
Wireless: Uptime : 341
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3564
Wireless: Uptime : 342
Wireless: Battery Voltage : 3566
This was over a hour of practice, not sure why the battery keeps randomly dropping voltage the spiking back up but it seemed to happen during the low point. I will have new batteries here on Friday but like I said earlier the battery meters out at 3.66v so it appears to be a healthy cell. Truedrive crashed after I downloaded the debug info so I am wondering if it is freezing up sporadically causining this,
True Drive freezing could be an indication of USB connection issues. However, that 3.487 V outlier battery voltage there is for sure interesting, and we are investigating if we can somehow reproduce that.
Is Truedrive voltage reading usually inaccurate? When I checked voltage the cell was not plugged into the PCB, I wonder if there is a voltage drop when it is plugged in and the cell is just junk. I tried plugging the Data USB into a diffrent USB3.0 jack, I will report back.
It seems that the battery voltage measurement in the wheel-side microcontroller happens at a point that cannot be externally measured, thus the measured voltage there will be around 0.1 V less than the battery would show in a multimeter. This is something that we can’t really do anything about, but we are investigating whether it is exactly the same on every wheel-side microcontroller so we could calibrate the measurement.
I don’t have any bluetooth devices in the room though, except the cell phone.