I don’t know about yours but I don’t know how many times the cable has got caught in the paddles or come unplugged. Mostly because the cable comes out of the wheel in front of the paddles at the base of the wheel. It should be behind them and it wouldn’t happen. Yes it works does it work well…not really.
Kiitos hyvin paljon, Tero!
I would luv to roll my own wheels, using this
@morpwr i’m sorry to hear that. I can see that if you have problems with the cable, wireless will be attractive.
I’ve had my OSW with a SimracingCoach button plate & panels for 2 years and I have never had the cable caught up in the paddles, or become unplugged, just wrap itself around the shaft on the very rare occasion the motor goes bonkers, Maybe it is the design of my button plate, or that the cable hangs quite loose below the wheel or I am just lucky.
I have the gt wheel from them. I really like the wheel hate the cord. Ive tried wrapping it around the shaft and leaving it hang which is how it is now and it still gets caught. Maybe im just unlucky.lol
Same wheel same result no issue with this of course I built a bracket to hold the usb wiring under my rig so it cannot come unplugged
Here is the transmitter module that goes in the wheel:
And here the receiver module to be plugged in Simucube:
I did industrial Velcro the pc usb side directly under the wheel on the rig but I was afraid to do something more solid in case you had a runaway wheel and it pulled out from somewhere it shouldn’t. Id rather have it unplug itself then rip the wires out of the wheel.
That looks fantastic Tero.
Do you have dimensions of the transmitter? Looks simple to work with.
Outer dimensions are 25.7 mm x 43.0 mm.
Im assuming a 2cell battery so should be pretty small?
it is expected, that a 2xAA battery is one of the options. Also a CR123A lithium cell should be fine, I plan on to mod my own development wheel to use this type of cell.
For AA batteries, they will rattle a bit in this type of application, so it should be made extra sure that the electrical connection is solid.
Absolute Maximum input voltage for the module is 3.8 V.
The CR123A looks like the way to go.
I’m assuming each transmitter will have a unique ID/name, so we can configure each wheel differently in terms of button assignments? Or is that part of the software programming you mentioned earlier?
yes, the buttonbox makers that the modules will be sold to, will be able to configure them using a hardware device that we will sell only to them. No USB connection, so the pin mapping configuration must be done with this type of arrangement.
For DIY model, if we choose to make this available for DIY, we would program some non-reconfigurable input mapping.
Thank you Mika. That’s probably one of the smallest controllers out there. Very cool.
As small as the controller is id think it would be pretty easy to find some place to put that. Even the battery I don’t think would be an issue and if it was maybe a small r/c battery box could be used to hold it if space was an issue.
With many wheels a major challenge may be the existing electronics inside the button plate. Some wheels have full size PCB inside where buttons and knobs are soldered on. It might need destructive modding to replace it with new board.
Yes, definitely want a DIY version.
diy version for sure… it looks so easy to work with and lots of user could mod theyr own rims or build new button box
I might be the one guy on here interested in a new wheel with this built in. Very comfortable upgrading Simucube to recognize it but seems easier just to get one more wheel and see what I think