Thx I’ll check …cause I haven’t been using TD only installed it today thx
How do you use an SC2 without true drive?
I see that they have updated iRFFB and a guy added understeer to all cars. Im testing it now.
I wish they would add this to Ture Drive.
Oh, I’m not interested in using irffb thanks
10-4 I mainly use TD but I just saw this and said I’ll see what it does.
I just did this Paddock-update and thanks for nothing. All profiles are gone and import doesn’t work. I don’t f-ing care what random people are using and don’t give a shit about online-profiles that only work online. What a ridiculous concept for setting up a few parameters. Some tooltips to explain the settings would’ve been nice and auto-activation of profiles, but no. I just can download settings from random people without any ratings and can’t revert to the software that was at least simply remembering my settings. So all the time I’ve invested into my settings I can do all over again. WTF?
We’re you using a non-Paddock version before this update?
Just curious.
You read this in the description?
Migrate your Classic profiles to Paddock or to Offline Profiles with 2021.7 or 2021.9 release before updating to this release.
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Unfortunately, few have the habit of reading, then they complain.
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May be warning prompt during upgrade suggesting to migrate profiles first when detecting anything pre 2021.11 as current FW.
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Thats the plan for the next release 
Seems you’ve not read my comment. I’ve exported the profiles in Classic and imported them into Paddock, but nothing get’s imported at all. Degrees of rotation is default and dampening, friction, inertia on 0% no matter which ini-file. 1st-world problem and sorry for the tone, but I was a bit pissed after all profiles were gone. And I really don’t like this concept. Just looking at the first rF2 online-settings and I would call this complete bullshit for example with way too high strength, dampening, friction and intertia. The former default was probably a lot better and it’s just a bad design luring people into trying shitty settings. What TD really need are useful descriptions what each setting does without YouTube and auto-switching profiles.
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You’re right to some extent, the vast vast majority of True Drive Paddock profiles are complete garbage, but your tone in your first message was quite off. The software developers Granite are simply trying to make the best program they can, and appeal to the widest base of users, and don’t need people on Forums swearing at them.
But yeah, Paddock isn’t anywhere near as useful as it could or should have been. I tried a few online profiles last night in iRacing, and any that have 100% overall strength as it’s first setting, you immediately know it’s going to make the car completely undriveable and painful. Granite/Mika have said countless times you should set overall strength to the maximum output you want for each game, and it doesn’t/shouldn’t have to be set at 100% maximum.
Having said that, I have been trying to upload my settings to Paddock, and I am constantly tweaking my settings every week to get the best and most realistic as possible, and I think the select ones I am uploading are very good. I am using an Ultimate, so I am also including in the description the Nm’s I’m using in game and in True Drive so that if you’re on a Pro/Sport, you can adjust the settings to match your wheel. Feel free to try them.
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I disagree, static force reduction works well and you’d adjust FFB per car in game
Static force reduction might be useful sometimes, but people shouldn’t use it plus lots of dampening, friction, intertia just to compensate too high overall strength. And the far more important settings for most titles are inside the game. Online TD-settings are completely useless without getting the hole package in most games and personal preferences have a huge range. Some like high dampening, some raw FFB like me. It’s just better to explain in simple words what the sliders are doing and usually less is more in terms of dampening-effects, apart from BeamNG 
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Leynard is right, Static Force Reduction shouldn’t have to compensate for 100% strength.
I am yet to find a single profile with 100% overall strength that works well on a Simucube Ultimate without shattering my arms.
For example, I’m just working on my Skip Barber profile, and I have overall strength set to 50%. On an Ultimate that’s 15.7Nm maximum output, and that is more than plenty feedback for a Skippy.
I’m just testing the upcoming F USA Gen 1 in AMS2 with 15 Nm max, 70% ingame and still reduced the per-car-FFB to 60% to feel some more details instead of brute force while with most other cars 100% is fine, so it depends on the details what’s right or not. BeamNG is usually better with 12 Nm or so plus far more dampening/intertia/friction than usual, because it’s using the 15 Nm way too often in situations that doesn’t feel appropriate and might hurt you. IMO everything well over 15 Nm is only useful to simulate karts or open wheelers without power-steering or just for having a work-out because of muscle-clipping. Racing teams usually go for DNF if the powersteering-system fails during a race.
PS: The true FFB-output depends a lot from wheel-size and stiffness…
Online profiles are so different from each other that they seem to confuse rather than being helpful. I don’t pay attention to them. For what I drive it doesn’t need much of adjustments in TD. Overall strength, wheel range, maybe recon to 1, static force reduction… In a simulation like AC, where you can choose from Formula to GT cars, very old racing cars to regular street vehicles with power steering it needs more than 1 profile, regardless to in-game settings (if you drive all sorts of cars). I never experienced a problem because of upgrading TD but my wheels are not wireless. I never lost one of my profiles either. Offering online profiles is a good idea but implementation seems to be difficult and if the quality of profiles is bad the quantity won’t make them better. Finally we are not forced to use them and the warning from Granite “using…risk” can’t be overseen.
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