Thanks for the advice. I feel like I may be somewhat short with patience at first due to the price and my order has been pushed back multiple times. I ended up just today having to cancel it and order the wheel from G performance who will ship it out Monday.
I am just hoping to at least have one or two main games that it will work quicker for and I can feel my “money’s worth” out of it.
So you bought the same Simucube 2 but from another distributor? You soon gonna receive it? If yes, the good thing is you have the best DD! Bad news is, you will have more questions than before… while the experience is overwhelming!
@CLAYREGAZZONI Yes I was waiting the “2 weeks” got postpone twice so I ordered it from G performance who has already emailed me to let me know it will be shipped Monday. So I will still be getting it this upcoming week. I’m sure the questions will be there (too many of them for sure), but I’m still trying to understand all I can before I dive into trying a setup. My first two games are definitely going to be Rally Sims Fans Richard Burns Rally and Assetto Corsa. I have been focusing on learning about AC currently. I see that almost everyone uses the 1180 rotation and hardware lock on CM as well as 100% gain on the wheel which still doesn’t settle well with me.
Can someone please explain the clipping to me here. If I have my wheel at 100% gain (25nm) and then I have the in game like say at 20%, then I hit a bump and see the FFB Clip jumped above the target line of 25 nm does that mean that I would have in those moments I would still receive 25 nm of force or would it be reduced due to the in game gain?
1180 or 900, important is that you have in both TD and AC the same value. I have TD at 100 with the Sport. In AC are 2 settings: overall gain (which I have lower than 100) and then, while you are driving, the “per car FFB”. You have also FFB settings for: curbs, road, slip (think so) and ABS. I am using the newest CSP version, which have a special section for DDs and load cell brakes. Is “untested” but working very well for me. Clipping will cut everything above and is, if you don’t have it too much, not really an issue. Too much and constant clipping is not good for the motor and produces heat. RBR: it is literally a very old starter file only. Everything else is new and developed from a variety of people. I prefer WRC but must admit I didn’t spend enough time to really get into RBR. Do you have a rally wheel aswell as a Formula/GT wheel?
I forgot something: congratulations!! You bought the right product!
No, it doesn’t mean you will get 25nm, it’s signal clipping, meaning you reached 100% or max FFB value range available and everything else after that is flatline. So this is why it’s recommended to lower gain in game to have enough headroom for signal and increase in TD so it doesn’t feel completely weak. Check this post, it has some nice charts explaining the situation. But it’s not really different from G27 or whatever wheel you had before.
Torque Clipping Notification on Hardware Settings page is of great help when in search of clipping point ingame.
SC2 beeps when a 100% signal is sent by the game
True, except the value of loud beeping when occasional clipping on curbs, etc. is a perfectly normal thing, can be questionable.
a follow up question regarding the clipping, for other games that don’t have an app you can install (like ffb clip on AC) or already in the game (like PC2), how would you determine clipping and how much is going on for other games including older titles?
Already mentioned for an older title would be Rally Sim Fans RBR and I also have the Every Seaons mod for the Formula 99-02 game. But even GTR2 and others, do you have to run motec to get the values and tune around that?
Thank you for the pointers, that is what I’m mostly looking for on the games, are just some main starting points. The do’s and don’ts and base things the game is known for like curbs hitting hard or dangerous spikes etc. For now I’m going to not try and take on too much and work on AC and RBR but my next games are RF2 (not looking forward to it since a lot of individuals complain about this game and the amount of tweaking per car sometimes), Every Seasons mod for F1 Challenge 99-02, and PC2.
So feel free to give me any pointers for those games as well if you have the time.
Each game is made for a target group and for those using Fanatec, Logitec and Thrustmaster. Granite is like Rolex, and from R2 on Hublot. Some new games like dirt rally 2.0 are even terrible with a Simucube. Some games like PC2 are more arcade and giving you a hard time to even get your Simucube recognized. Some like ACC are sure not arcade. Some like F21 have a phantastic look and are using DLSS. Within the Simucube owners are 2 groups: 1 uses TD first, try to always use the full torque available and then adjusting in-game. Others are coming from the opposite side. As mentioned yesterday AC is AFAIK one of the first games that try to optimize the use of load cell brakes (in fact it’s CM dudes doing so).
About setting up: in real race world, regardless what racing class, there are countless persons for 1 car doing nothing but to find the best car setup. For every single event, for cold and hot weather, quali and race, dry and wet. Why should it be much easier in a simulation?
Did you receive your DD yet? If so, start with using TD only, no game, and get an idea what each setting is doing from 0 to max. Try to understand what each one adds and if your steering wheel does need this. Because FFB doesn’t end at the shaft of the DD but at your hands
@CLAYREGAZZONI That is a great idea. No I am receiving the wheel on Friday if the delivery is on time 
I don’t know if you already went through this list:
I had an interesting question for all long term simucube 2 owners. Do you tend to set up a new game or profile with the direct inputs first or the Constantly operating inputs first in TD settings?
I use almost same settings in every game.
@Nrde That is interesting! I have heard from a majority (based on who comments on the forum) that the simucube 2 is very different per game, or can be, and thus it take individual settings that could be much different game to game. That is at least somewhat optimistic to hear that you keep very similar settings per game!
99 out of 100 simulations don’t have the capability to interact with fine tuning filters. They are almost never active
when you say fine tuning filters do you mean the direct input filers?
Yes, correct! Direct filters are showing up while you have the preset open.
means not available
means available but inactive
(it’s an empty circle)
means available and active
(it’s a filled circle)
Think on last page of TD active filters are also present in text from
Maybe I’m just lazy or not that demanding - or use too little forces to be bothered for different feel. But then I’m not playing every sim under the sun either. It might be some games that I don’t play would require special attention. I play AC, ACC, Dirt rally, RBR, Wreckfest. But lately maybe 95% AC.
I have changed the steering range to fit rally titles better though.
Anyway, take the possible tweaking as a fun part of the hobby.
bro, that is really lazy then!! Are you driving dirt rally with full torque? Do you have “Popeye’s arms”?