Simucube 2 pro coming in 2 weeks and where to start

Hello to all.

As the post states I am receiving my sc2 pro in around 2 weeks and I have been researching like crazy to shorten my learning curve, but it has just produced many more questions. I don’t mind learning and tinkering while at the same time I’m understanding that these are older games that require some tuning to get just right, but I also am not into the daunting and continuously overwhelming feeling when I attempt to learn this info nor do I have any interest in spending two weeks and my FFB feels the same or worse than I started lol

So I am reaching out to others who have the time (my time is limited with longer hours of work) to get started on these following things:

Main beginning tips for setup (ex. I know to depress the emergency stop when calibrating the wheel to be able to easily turn it on some wheels, to turn off the detect hands off because it can make the wheel go soft) as well as I am trying to attempt to find from others who have hundreds (maybe thousands) of hours in the wheel base already, how have you found is the absolutely best way to approach this all being new? Any steps you take or a process that’s been developed?

I would like to think I’ll just jump right in but I see some games are just not even drivable barely without adjusting right away. Then there is also information that contradicts such as which one should be at 100% gain: in game or on TD. Mika and some have stated it’s best to turn the TD up as high as you would ever want to feel in the wheel while many post in RF2 state turn the wheel to 100% and adjust the cars individual %. Some then also say use motec and see the spikes you’re getting and turn it up around 3nm higher to prevent clipping which could result in being higher than your previously desired TD gain.

What settings have the most impact or which ones to focus on first and which ones to fine tune? Which settings for osscilations or large vibrations, sudden jerks from road textures or curb? the list goes on…

So hopefully not too much blabbing but again this is overwhelming and I’m the analytic type that has to know all I can and don’t know where to start outside of looking over games of interest and reading which that itself only helps sometimes because games get updates and change, or ex project cars 2 listed tons of FFB files in them but only two were given with in game settings as well as TD settings.

I have conversed with others previously on here about paddock and from most on here it is said that it’s not really worth the time because they are bad or even dangerous, but even that doesn’t get you proper in game settings so one last main concern on where to start is the in game settings vs TD settings? Which affect more and which should be the initial focus?

Which is your Sim of choice? Knowing this will facilitate getting you dialled in quicker. Also, don’t overthink it, lots of expertise around to guide you :wink:

Initially the main three will be PC2, AC, and RF2. I’m rethinking RF2 though since it sounds like a possibly horrible experience to start with.

Following those would be GP legends and RBR from Rally Sims Plugin.

The questions I posted though such as when to use in game vs TD gains and such important things to me because I don’t want to end up injuring myself with this strong wheel base but it seems like everyone in the forums uses strong (even 100%) gain in the wheel and lets the game adjust the FFB gain and per car multiplier.

And for now all I’ve done is read most of all the forums title x game and simucube 2. That has given me some information on the games but of course all I have to go off of is what others say and attempt to use some of the settings that were provided that included both TD and game settings.

I am very limited in knowledge though. For example today I found out that AC has an in game Gain through CM, TD strength, and also a Car FFB controller app for car multiplier. So I would say don’t take anything for granted thinking I should know about it because it’s general information lol.

I should also say that I don’t mind the tinkering of the sims but I want to race a lot of titles and have fun driving more than tinkering for a year but I do know as I begin to focus more on a couple sims I enjoy more I will come here for more advice on how to further tune. I just want driveable and safe tunes for games with at the current moment any advice and information on main settings and affects to counter things I don’t like in these games I listed.

So I’m all ears to any helpful advice!

As Phillip said above, don’t overthink it.

You can start by taking some of the most popular settings from either here or via the Paddock software and use those as a baseline. Before driving, lower the overall power slider in TD to something around 40% or less, go for a drive to get a baseline feel and then bring that power up in small increments to where you feel most comfortable.

Once you feel confident that the base isn’t going to hurt you by suprise, you can then tinker with the other sliders and tune for the feel that suits your style.

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TD aswell as in-game settings depend on:
-Simulation
-Car class
a GT car doesn’t have the
same settings like a
Formula car, even they are
within the same
simulation, Fe Assetto
Corsa.
-Steering wheel
Size, weight, materials
used, shape…all of this will
have an impact and will
affect settings.
-Rig
Some rigs are better than
others. You maybe will
experience resonance or
flex at high torque levels,
while others won’t
experience that.

It is practically impossible to imagine the performance of a Simucube 2. Therefore, as already mentioned several times, you should not worry too much.

Okay so I’ll dial it back some and look more at what I would consider a base. So should I go for these settings people post where they put the simucube at full 100 strength in TD? That sounds pretty dangerous if the game decides to spike or something in game settings doesn’t come across right. Mika early on in post states it’s much safer and thus the correct way to go about it to up the gain in game and only up to what you want in the wheel. But then I get to reading and that might cause clipping in a lot of games? Is that why people are upping the strength of the wheel in TD to full almost?

Also if it helps any (which I don’t see it being too useful of information) I have a sim labs P1X and a momo R1909 wheel. I mostly am trying to go for detail but the one thing I do not want is powerful spikes.

Any pointers. Like are most tunes where if you hit a wall you should have let go of the wheel a long time ago? What about spin outs or bumps into a wall or trying to recover from wrecking before you wreck? Is it common for those to also produce high strength spikes?

Also if there can be any expert advice that has been learned by you guys through your trials on the sims stated above I would love to hear. Like the don’ts for a setup that would just be the complete incorrect thing to do.

I can only recommend to start with less strong settings and work your way up when you feel it is safe to do so. 25 Nm straight to hands is surprising to say the least…

Yes, you can take those settings and make one change, which is to lower the overall force in TD. You can then increase it back upward as you feel more comfortable and confident in what you are doing.

Or if you prefer, you can leave overall TD force low and bring the in game gain upward. It’s just a matter of you building up your confidence and trusting that any potential ‘spike’ won’t hurt you.

Just keep everything on the low side to start with and bump over kerbs etc to see how it feels to you. Then bring either TD or in game gain upward in small increments until you reach your personal limits.

This is where one size fits all won’t work. Each game has its own traits that have to be tailored for.

For example, I don’t play iracing but if memory serves, that’s one where I did have to remove my hands if I crashed. Probably down to me not having experience in setting things up correctly. That’s where the specific game threads here will be a great help.

RF2 has a particularly harsh kerb effect with stock settings. Again, the game thread here will help you to get started.

My advice would be to get the base installed, pick one game at a time and then come back here to get specific tips. Once set up to your liking, move on to the next one and the next one…

There are lots of smater guys than me here that will help you out for sure :slightly_smiling_face:

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Okay my one main thing is what prevents clipping or issues with the game when it comes to gain. I have read for both RF2 and AC that most tunes are set to full strength in TD to prevent clipping they found through the motec analyzer. If I go lower on my strength in TD but keep upping it in the game will I quickly get clipping?

Also when you state base do you mean like just a paddock base or a base of someone’s most recent recommendations on the thread for the game?

A very good and important advice! Once you really know a track and car combo it’s much easier to understand and experience what TD is about, what the different settings are for. If you jump from simulation to simulation, from car class to car class it will be difficult to learn about TD

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Yes, there will be a point where you will experience clipping if you go too far down that route but that’s easily fixed by swinging that ratio back in favour of TD. In that case you would add some TD gain and reduce in game gain in fairly equal amounts until you achieve the balance you want.

The main aim of my advice was to have you start out with safety in mind and avoid the hard hits that you feel anxious about.

Sorry, I meant the servo itself. Get that mechanically installed, pick a couple of profiles for your game of choice and try them out with lowered gain. That way you can try to feel the differences between them and settle on a profile that suits you best to start with.

Once you are happy with the basic feel, you can settle on that one profile for now, start to bring up the strength and then add your own fine tuning. If you get stuck, come back to the game centric thread where we can try to help with any further questions you might have.

It can seem overwhelming at first, especially if you overthink it by trying to plan for every possible outcome in advance (it did for me) but there are a lot of smart and friendly members here that will guide you as you go. Once you have a few hours of TD use under your belt you’ll feel more confident to experiment with the settings and enjoy it.

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So overall since it seems that I should start with a good base I will re arrange my question to be for the following games what is a good base that many recommend not just from how it feels, but because it’s correct to what the game has for:

Richard burns Rally (Rally Sims fans version)
Assetto Corsa
RF2
Project Cars 2

What I mean by “correct” to explain is how on some even recent threads for some titles mentioned above there were posts with settings for a game that had 1 or 2 replies of why would you have that since the game either didn’t use or take advantage of it. I’ve seen also for RF2 that some up the degrees of rorations in config files while others say you don’t have to. So what are the proper bases to start with that is correct to the game?

Also if there is anything to know right away about each of the titles mentioned above to get started just let me know. I’m looking for any advice such as this game doesn’t use these filters, or you shouldn’t turn this up too much, this game is harsh in crashes or cars hitting you (since AI traffic in AC also hits you a lot).

Lastly I wanted to make sure I have this covered. For the games mentioned above do I have this correct on all the parts that control FFB.

AC: you have CM for both AC and CSP settings, you have TD, and you have the FFB Controller in the game.

RF2: You have a config file and TD

RBR: just in game and TD?? (this game I know the least about)

PC2: config file and TD?

Take your time. I went from 6 years on G29 to Simucube 2 and it was a shock.

At first it was underwhelming, A LOT stronger for sure but no magic FFB feeling.
Then after weeks of tuning and driving you start to feel those small nuances and you learn the wheel better.

I still tweak stuff after 6 months but now I love it.

Take your time with it :slight_smile:

Thanks for the advice. I feel like I may be somewhat short with patience at first due to the price and my order has been pushed back multiple times. I ended up just today having to cancel it and order the wheel from G performance who will ship it out Monday.

I am just hoping to at least have one or two main games that it will work quicker for and I can feel my “money’s worth” out of it.

So you bought the same Simucube 2 but from another distributor? You soon gonna receive it? If yes, the good thing is you have the best DD! Bad news is, you will have more questions than before… while the experience is overwhelming!

@CLAYREGAZZONI Yes I was waiting the “2 weeks” got postpone twice so I ordered it from G performance who has already emailed me to let me know it will be shipped Monday. So I will still be getting it this upcoming week. I’m sure the questions will be there (too many of them for sure), but I’m still trying to understand all I can before I dive into trying a setup. My first two games are definitely going to be Rally Sims Fans Richard Burns Rally and Assetto Corsa. I have been focusing on learning about AC currently. I see that almost everyone uses the 1180 rotation and hardware lock on CM as well as 100% gain on the wheel which still doesn’t settle well with me.

Can someone please explain the clipping to me here. If I have my wheel at 100% gain (25nm) and then I have the in game like say at 20%, then I hit a bump and see the FFB Clip jumped above the target line of 25 nm does that mean that I would have in those moments I would still receive 25 nm of force or would it be reduced due to the in game gain?

1180 or 900, important is that you have in both TD and AC the same value. I have TD at 100 with the Sport. In AC are 2 settings: overall gain (which I have lower than 100) and then, while you are driving, the “per car FFB”. You have also FFB settings for: curbs, road, slip (think so) and ABS. I am using the newest CSP version, which have a special section for DDs and load cell brakes. Is “untested” but working very well for me. Clipping will cut everything above and is, if you don’t have it too much, not really an issue. Too much and constant clipping is not good for the motor and produces heat. RBR: it is literally a very old starter file only. Everything else is new and developed from a variety of people. I prefer WRC but must admit I didn’t spend enough time to really get into RBR. Do you have a rally wheel aswell as a Formula/GT wheel?
I forgot something: congratulations!! You bought the right product!

No, it doesn’t mean you will get 25nm, it’s signal clipping, meaning you reached 100% or max FFB value range available and everything else after that is flatline. So this is why it’s recommended to lower gain in game to have enough headroom for signal and increase in TD so it doesn’t feel completely weak. Check this post, it has some nice charts explaining the situation. But it’s not really different from G27 or whatever wheel you had before.