I’m interested in getting my first DD wheel, I’ve been looking at packages online and can only find 3-4 vendors still selling them (Simplicity, Pure Sims UK, VRS & Sim Tech Racing) They all seem to come in around 900-1100€. Are self sourced builds cheaper?
For a while I was trying to decide on the larger mige vs the small but recently I’ve seen Simplicity’s offering of the st130-M10015. It seems to have the same dimensions of the small but more rpm and +5nm. Are there any details of this (medium) mige being used with simucube?
I’ve also seen a post where someone was trying to decide upon a psu for the small mige. NDR-480W 48v is recommended but if you plan on overclocking in the future a 550W or more is necessary. What is the best Psu for this ?
Also can somebody say how much the M10010 motor complete with biss-c and shielded cables are from the factory?
I would say that the small mige is the way to go. The large is great too.
The 480w ndr and the sdr are great psu for the small mige.
The small mige let’s say that the pricing differs from country to country because you have to take into account the shervo prices plus taxes plus shipping cost and import fees. Some times it maybe cheaper to diy and sometimes it maybe cheaper to buy it complete. And i don’t take into account time and support/warranty.
Thanks. I thought the large mige was the m15015 model not the m10015. Got a good price quote from lisa earlier. So the total parts I have gathered in my head needed are
Motor
Shiedled main cables
Ioni pro hc - only 20€ more
Simucube board
Sdr 480w 48v psu
Whats about connecting the controller box/ simucube board to the pc?
Also need to source a housing for controllers and psu, maybe a small fan also?
Yes the large is the 15015, the small is to 10010 and then there is that mid one which is the 25Nm 10015… that particular servo hasn’t been used much anywhere even in all the normal self builds and my guess is that it is because the price is so close to the 15015 that there isn’t much reason not to get the “Large”
I am not sure power wise if the 10015 required use of the SDR720 as does the 15015 if ou want to get full power from it, likewise I cannot remember if the 10015 will require the HC IONI… I could figure it out but I don’t have the info on hand while writing.
Generally a Large Mige 15015 DIY will run about $1300 after shipping which for 30Nm is an extremely good buy (if you do some research about where to buy for the best pricing on other components such as the PSU as you can get an SDR-480 for around $120.00) the Small Mige you can probably have for around $1000.00.
Sim-Pli.city units ARE NOT Simucube units any longer so they use their own control systems and yes are cheaper. and their SW20 is a better price than you can DIY a SC1 10010 system for… BUT the SW30 I belive runs about the same as a DIY 15015.
As for building:
Motor and Cables are all sour cable through Mige
IONI Pro (HC version is ONLY needed if the servo you choose needs it)
NDR480 is the minimum PSU for the 10010 and the SDR480 would be the minimum for the 15015 (not sue which would be better for the 10015.
You would need the SimuCUBE Board
Standard Micro Computer case (usually comes with a fan)… In a large enough case the SimuCUBE never really runs hot enough to really NEED a fan.
The simucube board connects directly with the PC and its components and all you need is appropriate wire for the connections between the PSU and board and then a USB cable to the computer.
Yes I did forget to list that but those were included in the pricing that I did list, Cant edit the above so I will repost here:
Motor and Cables are all sour cable through Mige
IONI Pro (HC version is ONLY needed if the servo you choose needs it)
NDR480 is the minimum PSU for the 10010 and the SDR480 would be the minimum for the 15015 (not sue which would be better for the 10015.
You would need the SimuCUBE Board
Standard Micro Computer case (usually comes with a fan)… In a large enough case the SimuCUBE never really runs hot enough to really NEED a fan.
EDIT:
Drive lock and 70mm PCD adaptor (add QR if you wish)
Servo mount if your rig doesn’t already have a Servo Mounting provision (P1 / TrakRacer)
OP here. I went ahead a few days ago and purchased an osw kit from Pure sims. I think im missing the kettle lead and usb to mini usb type b lead but everything else arrived. Just waiting on a wheel to be delivered. I had a quick look inside the custom controller box and found they are using a Smun 400-48 8.3 A. Is this sufficient for the small mige ?
That should be sufficient, if it isn not what will happen is the wheel may drop into a FUV or low voltage fault from time to time and the wheel will stop force but not stop the ability to drive… Normally a quick cycle of the e-Stop will fix it… This generally will only occur when using the wheel at full or close to full power…
Worst case because I don’t know the PSU is that if this happens it will turn off this would be due to the type of protection circuitry in the PSU as some have shutdown overload which will completely turn off the wheel.
the original uses PSW was a 380w that was fine for probably 90% of the people out there… the 480w took care of that… So 400 isn’t bad.
Not sure what you mean by kettle (spell correct maybe taking over)
Thanks im sure it will be fine. Im going to follow sim racing bays setup guide as mine didnt come with any. Do you know how people overclocked their wheels to 25nm? Just no tutorials out there. A kettle lead it just another name for pc psu lead
While it is possible to drive the small mige to 25Nm anything above 20 is beyond the parameters of the servo design… This means that even though calculations say that it should output 25Nm it very well could be running less or more or even be non-linear at that point… It also puts more stress on the Electromagnetic winding which could shorten the life of the Servo… It is not an Over Clocking as such it is an over Amping with in computer terms would me more like upping the Voltage on the Processor not the clock which is actually pretty dangerous to do to the Processor and this is much the same…
As well even if it would hold longevity there is a very good chance that the wattage requirements would rise exponentially. so the 400w may not yield the results wanted.
As far as setup if you are part of iRacing you can go to this link in the forum https://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3573261.page… This will provide DRC files for Maximum power from the system as well as information on how to set-up the wheel and sample set-ups.
DRC files are pre-saved servo drive setting files that people are using to configure our IONI and Argon servo drives, so that individual parameter tuning is not required.
In practice with the SC1’s the hiccups would tend to survive the fault without shutting down but of course the fault would be set… Though current limiting is really the best type for this.
Would 8.3 A be enough for full power? I seen that the normal psu now is the ndr 480, but that can also peak to 700+ W for a short period in spikes ? Just wondering if this psu can peak that high also?
I would not use such PSUs that do not have even a simple datasheet available. Probably nobody can answer those questions for you for these cheapo PSUs.
