Just stating obvious, but do you have High Torque enabled, your screenshots says it’s Off, last FW update reverted Permanent High Torque setting if you had it.
Next time it happens try to immediately click on Download Event Debug Log, some info might be there.
My uneducated guess it’s PSU, R2 switched to single brick Phiphong model that was operating outside manufacturer’s original spec, high load can trigger higher amperage it cannot supply.
Another thing, try brand new profile, and may be different game to rule out sim/profile possibility.
@OP: Probably best raise the support ticket again and mention to Personnel at Simucube that it is most likely something amiss with the base itself, or PSU acting up. Best they test it at their facilities for you.
This is very unlikely to be a device or firmware issue. We have shipped several similar cases to our office and to our factory, and we have never managed to reproduce similar issue in either case.
We will continue in the support ticket.
Lets not spread misinformation. The PSU was operating within our specifications and the PSU was customized by us and the manufacturer so manufacturer’s original specifications do not apply.
I’ve set member rights to OP so he can post again.
True Drive downloads the default profile name and settings from the device when it connects to device. Nothing wrong or amiss here.
If the FFB otherwise seems to work fine, there is no way for any profile parameter to cut torque mid-corner.
One thing that may cut torque, could be the e-stop cable being loosely connected to the wheel base or the connection inside the switch vibrating somehow. But that would be associated with the beep tones when torque resumes, IF you are in high torque mode.
There is no such thing as a complete firmware flash. The device will not go past bootloader mode on device power-on if there is a “bad flash” or something like that. The application binary is CRC checked on startup, and also in firmware flashing the integrity of data transmission is CRC checked, and that is on top of all the USB communications integrity checking. I wonder where the “bad flash” heritage is coming from, maybe from devices from some other manufacturers…
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I can confirm e-stop is firmly connected and no beeps or sounds occur when the FFB cuts out.
So what shall we try now as this problem still exists??
I have tested the base with 3 different profiles. It cuts FFB with all three. Suggesting not a profile issue but something else…but what??!
Well if not a PSU or hardware issue, what IS causing the FFB to cut??
I have tested WITH and WITHOUT high torque. FFB cuts out either case. 
I have also tested plugging USB directly into PC/MoBo (every USB 1.0, 2.0 and 3.0 port) as well as also trying with a powered USB hub.
I lose FFB same place on track every time.
Still stumped.
I have no solution to this problem but my own anecdote while driving AC in Sveg track where I had the same problem.
The symptom was similar, total loss of FFB in one specific corner nowhere else. Not on every lap maybe 1 every 5th lap or so. Very annoying… Luckily I did not have to go to as drastic measures as you as the symptom disappeared by itself - I still don’t know why.
You are one of very very few that seems to use notch filter. Could you tell me a bit about it?
IDK. If you are referring to a setting in the profile I was using, that profile was created by Rob Clark, iRacing streamer and pro driver IRL. I’d have to ask him…
This is the SECOND time and 2nd SC 2 Pro base that has done this to me. First time was on Win 10 second on Win 11. Both happened around 10-12 month age of the DD base. Coincidence?? 
Ok, you took over these settings with the paddock profile. Thanks for the answer!!
And yes, almost forgot: the settings in TD peak and notch filter with QFactor. Is something Granite knows about, and @Purple_Red … and maybe god…
Most likely. I suspect some weird software coincidence in specific circumstances. When it happened to me I had had SC for a few months, and not once after that. That was over 3 years ago.
Well, to rule out any more software questions, I am rebuilding the PC…AGAIN…today from scratch with a clean Win11 install. Will install USB peripherals one by one with latest drivers and software.
If it doesn’t work after that. How can it not be a hardware/firmware failure???
I honestly don’t know. But I hate to reinstall windows. I myself wouldn’t do it based on guessing. You are different. But to come back to your question: you do a windows reinstall, maybe to find out it didn’t help. What remains is the question: what causes the problem. It’s pure speculation when I say it’s not windows. But tell me/us: how can windows make it possible to make you loose your FFB in the same spots, for the same amount of time, in the exact same way?? Even when it’s successful, you don’t know the root of the problem. It could happen anytime again. Sorry for the pessimistic outlook. Maybe the Granite team does find a solution soon!?!
I agree. But if I start with a clean fresh install, I might have a better chance of identifying the root cause as I rebuild my apps/software/drivers one by one. It also might cure any conflicts between drivers or firmware/registry files that may have been created when I updated the TD and FW 2 weeks ago. I’m skeptical too. But since I can’t get a solution (yet) from SC…i have nothing else to try…
If it happens in the same corner with different True drive settings, different iRacing settings then it’s even hairier situation. If it behaves the same way on other sims too, it could be HW problem of some sort. If only iRacing and one corner to me that points to iRacing weirdness.
Also don’t load ready-made settings, but put same or similar values by hand to rule out corrupted settings or other unlikely situations.
I agree that windows probably isn’t the culprit but if you feel like reinstall it doesn’t hurt.