I don’t think that the custom files were the fix…they might have been, but it seems unlikely given that the custom files don’t change really anything other than kerb/collision effects. I had to delete and reinstall the game including the user folder. You could just try deleting the user folder as well. I realize either deletion option is a huge pain/inconvenience, but that’s what fixed it for me. I have no idea how I would have fixed it otherwise.
I deleted the User folder because of the weird steering issues I had with the 911 RSR as well as with other cars. That did not help. I still get huge rapid fire vibrations as soon as the car moves forward. Same with the Radical SR3 and a few others.
Are you able to run the 911 RSR now with 100% FFB in TrueDrive?
Apologies if I’ve missed this in the back history, but have you got anything set for ‘minimum torque’ in the in-game FFB settings (a hangover from an older non-DD wheel?). Min torque should definitely be zero and any other value would/could contribute to rapid oscillations.
No, I deleted the entire UserData folder and had rF2 rebuild it, so I have no pollution from previous profiles, etc.
With the SR3 and the RSR 911, as well as with a couple of others, with 100% FFB in TD and as soon as I start rolling the car, the wheel vibrates so fast it’s like an ultra-high speed jackhammer. Only hitting the brakes stops this manic vibration. I have to turn the FFB down below 70% to get it to stop occurring. It only happens with a few cars.
I’ll try it out ASAP and respond/edit this post when I can with my results. rF2 seems to be so finicky, but when it works, it’s amazing.
Update: No weird issues with the 911RSR. I guess the next option is to uninstall the game and reinstall it? I used 100% strength setting with 45 gain in rF2.
Ah ok - so you cannot run anything higher than 75% FFB in rF2 (what you call “gain”) without the vibration.
I run 70% in-game FFB (gain) and anything higher than that produces the vibration.
I forgot to try 75 strength in rf2. I will do so and report back. Although with 100% strength in true drive, using 75% in rf2 would be far too much with the 911RSR (at least with the Simucube 2 Pro). I will try it out regardless though and report back.
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Thanks. I’m starting to form a list of rF2 official cars - from either S397 or ISI - that exhibit extreme vibration on 100% in-game FFB and TD FFB @100% as well. So far, the 911 RSR and the Radical SR3 are the worst - impossible to drive at 100 / 100.
I ran some experiments last night with 911 RSR and with the Norma LMP3. Both have power steering, and both race on the same tracks in the main IMSA series and ELMS, so I can compare lap times and also watch the onboards to check driver inputs and wheel reactions.
What I noticed with dropping both the in-game FFB and the TD Strength is that you can extract more detail from the FFB when you start using the Reconstruction Filter. I was using 0 RF before and I changed it to 1 Minimum “Fast”.
What happened? With the RF set to “1” the tyres became far more nuanced and I could feel the suspension travel through the wheel. I had been using RF “0” for several weeks and I am really surprised at the large change in the overall feel when going from 0 to 1.
This made the 911 RSR so much more interesting to drive (and got rid of most of the vibrations) and I played around with things like Static Force Reduction, Inertia and Friction so that my steering inputs match up with the on-board footage. I know some drivers are much stronger than others, but you can see on tight turns like La Source (T1 @Spa) or T7 (Hairpin @Sebring) how much input is needed to get the car to rotate.
As Alan McNish says, “a modern race car’s geometry is designed around its power steering.” And this is really critical to understand how steering is supposed to behave, how quickly you can move the wheel, and the difference between the wheel getting light because the FFB is not set up correctly and the wheel getting light because the power steering is working as intended.
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how can i get this controllers?
Reckon filter at 0 should be disabled, i don’t know why they still keep it as an option since it confuses people.
I would be really sad to see it go.
Used together with lowest slew rate setting, it provides a different way to smooth the signal.
Also for developers of ffb signals it can provide the most true form of the original signal, so is an important feature.
So removing it could make it less useful for developers and we might not get as good results on SC2 as if it is not removed.
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ok i don’t disagree if it works for you. 
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I think Loukas meant that we should force reconstruction filter on at minimum of 1 at all times. I agree.
The game developers never meant to have the artifacts from the low update rate to be felt on the wheel, as it they are DD wheels with no smoothing filter.
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I did understand what Loukas meant.
As I directly stated, I have use cases for “recon 0” in 2 ways:
- Sometimes “recon 0 + lowest slew rate setting” makes sense for me.
- For developers to feel their signal as directly possible, it is important to be able to switch off as much smoothing as possible. This is NOT for how they intend it to be felt, but to understand what signal they produce, I have used this myself. I am sure some developers also visualize by graphs etc, but you still benefit from this ability.
From my perspective it’s a really bad idea, but since you already have the “simple mode” then what is the problem? Just don’t set recon at off in any way when using that.
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Having non zero as default value for new profiles can help new users too, but please keep the ability to disable Recon altogether.
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Hi all,
I’m new to Simucube as well as these forums. I’ve been having some issues dialing in the ffb in rF2 that I’m hoping I can get some advice on. I should mention that I’m new to sim racing as a whole starting earlier this year, I’ve really taken to this hobby like no other so I decided to make the jump from a belt driven wheel to an SC2 pro as I really spend a lot of time in the sim and want to maximize my enjoyment.
First, when adding an rFactor 2 profile in Truedrive there is a link to a post in this thread dated July '19 by Mika that has the rFactor 2 json files. Are these files still valid or is it dated? Because from what I can tell rFactor 2 does have a default Simucube 2 Pro profile that will load. However I want to be sure that I’m using the correct profile as recommended by the Simucube devs.
That said, I’ve tried the default profile in rF2 and the one in this thread and neither get the ffb feeling the way I prefer. The biggest issue I’m finding is that there is a very dead feel in the center. It’s hard to put my finger on but something is missing when the wheel is close to center, there is almost zero ffb happening and no sense of movement. I also don’t seem to have as much of a sense of the grip compared to my belt driven wheel.
I’ve taken the time to read up on the Truedrive settings and have played with the various filters, cranking things up incremently and turning them all down to zero to get a feel for what’s happening. The dampening, friction and inertia don’t seem to help with what I feel is lacking. It could very well be that I’m now getting the full rF2 experience as the software developers intended, and maybe I was just to accustomed the feel of my clubsport wheel. But it always felt as if my CSW was tugging at me slightly and keeping me more engaged. Perhaps there is a boost to the more minimal forces that while not being accurate, is easier for a beginner to pick up on.
rFactor has gone from being my most immersive ffb experience to one of the least for me personally. I mainly drive open wheelers and the Tatuus vehicles are some of my favourites. It may not be an apples to apples comparison, but when driving the Tatuus FA01 in Assetto Corsa with the default settings in TrueDrive, regardless of how realistic the phsycis are I always know where the limit is and it feels truly amazing to drive. With rF2 it feels like guesswork now, especially on the throttle. I don’t really know when I’m about to slide until it starts happening.
Lastly, I’m curious how all the ffb force settings relate to one another. I have the controller json for rf2 set to 25nm, and use the in game multiplier to adjust the strength. I generally keep TD at 100%, but if I were to say drop it down to 50%, does the game clip at all because rF2 is requesting more nm then what TD will now allow? Or does TD essentially halve all signals? I’m fairly certain it’s the latter but just want to be sure.
Again, I’m new to all of this and perhaps I’ll adapt to the new feel with the SC2 pro. But it does feel very off to me. However I would expect that when travelling over 200km/h there would be some sense of tension in the wheel near center, even when not cornering.
Sorry for the long post, thanks to anyone who has read this and any response is really truly appreciated.
BR - I’ve been using the SC2 Pro with rf2 since around August last year after several years on rf2 with a Thrustmaster T500RS.
Firstly, you are correct, I believe, to set TD to 100% and to modulate the forces from within rf2. Depending on the vehicle (I’m mostly into historic sports cars) my in-game FFB is generally around the 60% mark but for modern GT3s with lots of aero it can be lower and for older 60s single seaters it can be much higher to get any real feel.
It might be a bit much for you just now in your rf2 journey, but at some point you might want to find and install the 3rd party Motec plugin and analyse the actual FFB output in the real-world Motec analyser software. This is quite complicated but you can see from one of the data feeds what the actual ‘demand’ FFB forces are for a particular vehicle/track and can tweak the in-game force % to give you maximum detail without clipping.
Even as an experienced rf2 driver, it took me weeks or even months to settle on a basic combined profile (TD settings plus the relevant rf2 Controller.JSON internal settings) for me to be happy. The default SC2 rf2 profiles do need tweaking in the JSON in my opinion - for instance, out of the box, the kerb strike (and general collision) effects are overblown.
There are a lot of ‘moving parts’ in the equation - car mod, track, setup, controller.JSON, in-game settings, TD, driving style/preference… - so don’t despair but be patient.
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Can anyone remind me what JSON line to modify in order to lower the amount off ‘pull’ that I get when applying the brake? It’s been so long that I just cannot remember.
Here’s what I have at the moment:
“Force Feedback”:{
“Brake effects on steer axis”:0,
“Brake effects on steer axis#”:“0 = Brake effects on brake axis, 1 = brake effects on steering axis.”,
“Brake effects strength”:10000,
“Brake effects strength#”:"-10000 to +10000, applies to all brake effects (force, vibration, static spring, etc?)",
“Brake spring coefficient”:0.3,
“Brake spring coefficient#”:“Static spring effect rate (-1.0 to 1.0)”,
“Brake spring saturation”:1,
“Brake spring saturation#”:“Static spring effect peak force (0.0 to 1.0)”,
I’m using the Porsche 911 GT3 and just a gentle application of the brake wants to pull the steering strongly back towards centre.
I would think Brake spring saturation. Treat it as a percentage in 0.0-1.0 form so if you want half strength use 0.5.
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