I use
Overall force 100%
Force reconstruction 4
Damping 15%, Friction 10%, Ultra low latency 15%
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me too I use 100 for fine tuning at default
Thanks, i will give it a try
Hello, can anyone assist, I’m having a terrible time setting up rFactor 2 with my Simucube Ultimate. rFactor feels grainy, far too much power in the wheel, and just feels unnatural to drive.
People keep saying how realistic the FFB is, and I’ve never got close to it feeling anywhere near as good as iRacing does.
I have an Ultimate. Is there anyone else with an Ultimate that could send me their TD settings as well as their rFactor 2 settings?
I mainly race open wheel.
I was trying out the McLaren 1989 F1 car the other day, and it was just horrible, and I ended up frustrating deleting rFactor.
Did you set Steering Feedback Strength to negative 100
make sure to load the correct profile and then start binding but do not start the calibration as this can mess things up.
also remember that ffb per car defaults to 100 everytime you enter a session so you have to reduce it everytime. Also some cars could benefit from a little filtering in game, try 1 and see.
when you finish bindings and all your settings do not forget to save a new profile with a name that you like
if you get ingame and you have no force feedback check the file that you named and saved just previously with a notepad and see that “DI Steering effects strength”:10000, because sometimes this is 0 and you have no feedback.
Here’s how I set up rF2.
In rF2:
- Create a new controller profile starting with the SC2 Ultimate preset.
- Assign all axis and buttons.
- Calibrate wheel and pedals.
- Save the new profile using a unique identifiable name.
-
Per-car ffb multiplier should be reduced to avoid clipping issues (aim for 50-75%)
You may want to reduce the overall ffb gain as well (Depending on desired force levels).
In True Drive:
- Force Recon Filter Level: 1-3 (depends on Friction / Damping / Slew Rate)
- Friction: 12-15%
- Damping: 12-17%
- Slew Rate: Use to reduce wheel speed, harsh movements (lower = slower).
- Direct Input Settings: Default
I do much prefer rF2 ffb over iRacing but, they both convey cornering intensity through the wheel very effectively. rF2 is better at surface details and front grip-loss cues (imo). When using the Friction / Damping / Slew Rate settings properly, abrupt wheel movements should not be an issue at all, even with FWD cars, raised curbs, off track, etc.
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I did do so, but FFB was still horrible.
I’ll give this a try.
On my settings, I just find the cars are too ready to snap and crash.
I feel I might just be used to the iRacing FFB, and my mind won’t adjust to anything else.
Damping can help with that for sure. Some titles have damping (or gyro) baked into the ffb already but, think of damping as a form of speed control for wheel rotation. Also, Slew Rate can help with taming large quick movements, reducing harshness.
When the Damping level is optimal, the steering should feel natural, a comfortable speed for you to catch a slide but, not so slow that the steering feels laggy (like you have to force the correction).
I recommend playing with Friction / Damping / Slew Rate (each in isolation) to better understand what each effect does and how if feels. Then try combining two, then all three effects. After some time, you’ll be able to quickly dial in the ffb in any title.
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Hi community members, and hi Marty, I’m the one who messaged you on Reddit the other day about this subject. I came here to ask about the thing I said to you.
Could a fix for graininess in rFactor2 be to not use the Software wheel rotation setting, and instead setting cars manually using ‘device driver’ setting and Truedrive?
It sounds crazy, but I think I feel a difference in signal richness when using the manual setting with ‘device driver’. But I need someone else to try it.
It came through as graininess with the Renault Megane Trophy, which is a rough-feeling car. With software mode, I feel like the signal feels more noisy because the different bumps are more of similar character so they blend together more. It feels like there is less range, and I don’t feel the smoother, deeper forces when cornering. I am trying to account for any strength difference between the two modes. The ‘device driver’ way seems to have the smoother and more nuanced cornering forces, and more natural low forces. I think it felt more real.
On other cars that are more smooth, like the Panoz Roadster, the feeling with the manual option, I think, is more tactile, less like repetitive tugs. And things like bumps have more of a range of frequencies, so they feel more 3-dimensional. Again, I may be imagining this.
It made me wonder if maybe the frequency of the FFB was being altered when software mode converts the wheel’s rotation. Could someone at Granite test this out?
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Yep, that was me!
I’m going to reinstall rFactor 2 at the weekend and give it one more try before I relegate it to the bin.
Interestingly, I have the Kart Sim add on, and the FFB for the Karts is excellent. It’s just every single other car feels crap.
But I am going to try to suggestions above and see where that gets me.
I also find the FFB in ACC a bit rubbish too. I fear I may have just gotten used to the iRacing FFB, which I love whereas most others (on belt wheels) don’t like.
Good lucky Marty, im willing to bet a little money that itll be uninstalled by end of week. Ive tried all these suggestions and still cant get it right, unfortunate. If you have luck, pls share.
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It also really has to do with the content. I mean the gt3 cars (haven’t tested the kart sim) are really good , but for me the btcc are terrible. But if all the content feels terrible , then something seriously wrong is happening because rfactor 2 isn’t that bad.
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Newer rF2 DLC provides the better ffb imo but, different classes may require their own TD profile for best results. I find the differences generally include minor adjustment to Friction / Damping / Slew Rate.
Some of the older rF2 content (ISI for example) may have ffb falloff like AC does (Front grip-loss effect). I prefer a more progressive steering resistance representing edge of grip level, something rF2 excels at.
S397 cars ffb do vary quite a bit in how certain ffb characteristics are rendered, imo. They range from feeling over dampened (some GT3) to harsh and chunky (BTCC / Caterham). Others feel more direct and balanced (LMP series / Tatuus Series).
Isn’t it opposite, AC and ACC have progressive steering resistance while rF2 and AMS2 have that grip loss effect when wheel goes limp.
Unless you enable that awful enhanced understeer effect in AC which makes it more like the other two.
In rF2, it depends on the cars. The S397 GT3/GTE cars don’t have significant fall-off, if any.
In AMS2: I can’t speak to either default ffb profile as I haven’t used those in quite some time but, it is an option in the custom ffb file structure. There are custom versions that ramp up the resistance to very high levels but, a bit of scrub or tear effect can be applied to help define the “edge”.
Those effects can be altered in intensity / hardness / frequency / timing / sequence, etc. Many custom files have those effects overdone or engaging too early for my liking but, it’s all super adaptable once you know what lines to edit.
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Default+ has extreme fall-off, Default is a bit better but still there. I have only experience with default rF2 content, no DLCs, so can’t comment if the latest GT3s have it close to Kunos progressive resistance.
@GT_Greg and @Marty feel free to send me your saved controller json in pm just to give it a look , maybe we can work something out to make it feel better
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My settings are similar. However, I set the “Torque bandwidth limit” to a mid-range number to filter out some high-frequency vibrations (which I assume come from the road texture).
With my settings, I find rF2 to be the most involving sim, ahead of the original AC (and way ahead of ACC), but similar in feel to AC. I guess I tuned both rF2 and AC to produce what feels realistic to me, so it’s not surprising that they feel similar, but I don’.t think it’s possible to get the same kind of feel from ACC.
I drive mostly GT3 and LMH/LMP, and I use the same settings for all cars.
I should also add that it took me a while to tune rF2 to my liking. I actually gave up on it for several months after they made changes that messed up the feel for me. But then I got back into it, and I’m glad I did. I find it extremely rewarding. So I wouldn’t give up on it after a week or two.
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