Thanks for sharing as always @SuperMonaco_GP 
Getting back to try the new GTE update and i’m confused about the 1440 degrees which used to be recommended when most of the online profiles are 900 like yours.
Out of the box after re-installing rf2 it is 1440 in the jason file and it is un-driveable so i will try your settings.
Thank you again.
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I use 900° in TD, and it works perfectly, and I didn’t have to edit .json, all is very nice.
Now I can have a very strong FFB with all the details, without any clipping.
The Static force filter is my favorite, I use almost zero other filter, to have a very raw FFB, but the Static Force filter is the only one I use, cause it’s very very strong with some cars.
OMG my SC2 is the best wheel on the market.
I will save for 4 DBOX and I think I will have the ultimate rig.
hi to all sc2 pro users fan
playing during near one year on 2021.9 True Drive version with all satisfactions. Sc2 pro (damping 15, friction 10, reconf 5).
I give a try to latest fmw 2022.7…little disappointed. Something is different, little less damped, little more rough, and little more loose at center point.
If i want to keep 2022.7 version, which params must have to change to recover my original feel ffb ?
I will test for you, I like raw, so maybe I will be happy.
I use 2022.5
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Has anyone experienced an “Error: 140404 Overvoltage” while running rfactor 2? I did today. First time it has happened (never with any other game). I reset using the e-stop and it seems to be working, but I haven’t tried running rfactor 2 again. Any insight appreciated.
-Monti
Can’t be sure this this is exactly what happened in your case but this fault can appear if you happen to have been turning the wheel as the servo was booting up.
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Thanks Paul,
That may be the case. I wasn’t paying too much attention until it wasn’t working. It hasn’t happened since, so hopefully that was the answer.
-Monti
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rFactor 2 has to be one of the most frustrating games I’ve ever used. It just hates the user I think.
Anyway, in the process of trying to get it to work today for the first time in a couple of months (After switching back to VR from triples), I had a bunch of issues trying to load up a server, and ended up needing to delete a bunch of things and switch versions and some other stuff. It was a long ordeal, as usual, because rFactor 2 is torture sometimes.
Anyway, somewhere in that process my force feedback has become super awful and grainy, or notchy. It almost feels like there’s velcro in the wheel? or like you can feel the individual magnets or something?
I found this thread in a google search and I tried some different json files I found further back and I’ve had to try to use those and I’ve remapped my controls and recalibrated these things enough times now I’m about to pull my hair out, because it’s not making any difference at all. is there a place to find the most up to date one? Or is there a known cause for this issue that I can address?
I dont have this in any of my other games, and I didn’t have it in rF2 at all until today. Just feeling confused and defeated. Just frustrating when you know it worked fine before and now nothing you do can solve it.
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When I last encountered ffb issues or inconsistencies in rF2, here’s what I did.
- Delete the SimuCube2 ffb-preset and run Steam rF2 file verification to download a fresh version.
- Move, delete or rename your current custom controller profile.
- Run rF2 and load the SimuCube2 controller preset.
- Setup your controller axis and buttons and be sure to save (or export) your new controller preset using a unique name.
- Exit / Restart rF2 and be sure your newly created controller profile is loaded.
- Test the ffb to see if improved.
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with a very high FFB multiplier (more than 35%) and TD panel at 100% with a SC2 pro, no way to reduce the bumps/kerbs harschness…it’s always too much strong.
The only fix could be if the s397 devs add a special FFB filter.
There are some others games which use better a high FFB…without too much harschness like rF2.
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I see it the same way: there is stuff you can’t really use all torque: dirt rally, r2F, F1 titles are also something I don’t use full torque.
I struggled for quite some time, what is better: TD high/in-game low, TD low/in-game high.
I definitely prefer TD high and in-game low (if high high is not practicable). I tried it the other way aswell. But IMO to have TD at the highest torque level is just better, if I don’t have to make compromises with damping, friction and inertia. I just don’t like what their results are, or my steering wheels just don’t need them
I think differences between the high-TD / Low game-ffb and inverse approach, is largely placebo. I’ve tried both in various titles and can’t detect any significant difference in feel (so long as clipping is not a factor).
Where Low-TD approach is advantageous is with safety. People may falsely believe that errant spikes in ffb signal are limited to the game-ffb strength level but, I don’t think that is accurate. The ultimate force limiter is dictated by the SC2 output setting.
I find a good balance of Friction & Damping solves any issues related to strong bump forces, oscillation, steering instability, torque-steer, etc. I also think the overall steering behavior is more realistic as a result but, then again, I don’t have RL experience driving race cars. 
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Can we all agree that rf2 is broken like too much kerb effect with a very high ffb??
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What do you consider very high ffb?
At the ffb levels I run, curbs are certainly no issue at all in rF2.
Have you tried using Slew Rate? I think that may be useful for reducing such effects.
Damping makes the wheel feel heavier to move and helps when you steer too much.
Friction is slowing down the wheel movements around the shaft. It helps preventing the wheel to start oscillating. It also makes it easier when you facing problems to hold a steady position
That said my conclusion is that none of them were made for the purpose you actually use them.
RF2, with its harshness, is the perfect simulation for a thing called static force reduction. This setting let you maintain the FFB strong without experiencing “shock moments” were a spike starts scarying you.
To keep it overall safe you can, of course, limit slew rate. It’s your life insurance in massive crashes.
I would consider to stop using damping and friction (especially for the purpose you are using it).
The source of FFB is the simulation. All simulations I know offer the possibility to limit the strength. Why? You need a certain amount of FFB coming from the physics, tyres Aso. If you have in-game FFB at 0, that means FFB is off. You can add 100 torque from TD and the result is still O. Best approach is to get the right dosis from the simulation and then gain from the Simucube. Seeing it in this light it’s not placebo.
I don’t have any experience with RF2, apart from peeking in a few times. I think @Tony is right. There maybe is a way to find good or very good settings. It will be very time intensive, I’m afraid.
hi,
whats about this .json(?) file, i remember to read about changes there to tone those harsh bumbs a bit down… i,m confused, is this working,or not?
I’ve heard reports (in rF2 forums) of recent changes to how ffb and controller json interact but, I don’t recall any specific information. It suggested that certain file parameters may be disabled or locked.
I’m well aware of how Friction and Damping work but, thanks anyway.
My methodology works great for me. Guess I’m just lucky.
Regarding High-TD strength / Low-game strength: I used 100% TD / 50% Game vs 50% TD / 100% game strength in my testing. To me, the results felt the same.
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If I use ACC with 100% FFB and 50 of the Simucube, won’t this lead to clipping, or at least increase the risk to experience clipping?
And 50% FFB from ACC with 100% from TD, isn’t this the opposite?
By setting TD to half of the force the maximum torque will be less than 9Nm for my Sport, no matter how strong the incoming FFB signal is. Everything above will cause clipping. If I have TD at 17.7Nm, then clipping occurs not at 7.9 but at 17.7 Nm. I have a problem in seeing this as equal. Is there anything I am missing?
I believe it’s accurate to say that 100% in TD / 50% in game eliminates any chance of signal clipping. The inverse settings will almost certainly produce clipping, at least in certain cases. The 50% figure is an example case.
Of course, we need to take into account game output signal clipping, either by monitoring via app or reducing the game-ffb output to lower levels. I generally start by using something like 60% / 60% (TD / Game-ffb) but, make some adjustment from there.
I’m not convinced that 100% in TD brings any benefit to the quality of the ffb beyond addressing clipping but, there are other ways to keep that in check, while also reducing the risk factor. Of course, if one wants to maximize forces to the limits, then 100% TD will have to do.
I just prefer a more balanced approach for risk / reward, and I’m not that strong. 