First up - for ‘mad vibrations’ - can you check the in-game setting for ‘minimum torque’?
This setting is quite important for non-DD wheels as it tries to overcome the inherent damping of cog and belt-driven wheels. For DD wheels (SC2s at any rate) it should be set to zero. The suggested method of setting it for non-DD wheels was to gradually increase it until the wheel started to oscillate gently while driving at slow speed. If you’ve still got something set here, it probably won’t help your cause…
Also, some of the JSON entries are what I’d refer to as vectors - I.e. the +/- part of the value affects the direction of the force (a good example is the overall steering effects entry - if you flip the sign of this, your wheel will stop self-centering and will try to force the steering full left or right. Fanatec wheels, for instance, need the opposite sign to SC2s…
It’s not always clear (to me) which others are true vectors - the curb pull, for instance, should act as either a ‘sucking in’ or a ‘repelling’ force depending on the +/- (and have a neutral effect if set to zero) but it can be hard to isolate the feel of one setting when so many other factors (other JSON entries, car setup, track design) are at play.
Thank you so much for the response. As far as in-game FFB settings go, I have smoothing set at 0 and minimum torque also set at 0. As far as the JSON goes, I’ve tried the default one, @SuperMonaco_GP file from last year, and also the default changed with your edits from 5 days ago. I am not sure what else to do. It’s strange that this issue began despite not changing anything in the game, so something in one of the updates definitely messed with something. I thought a fresh install of rF2 would fix it for sure, but I am not sure what folders it clears out, so maybe it didn’t clear all of them. I did notice that the other JSONs that I edited in the past stayed in the controller folder despite the reinstall, while the defaults showed an updated “last modified” date field. I am open to any other suggestions. I don’t mind deleting everything and starting from scratch…but that’s what I thought I was doing with the uninstall route.
…in game or TD? In-game ‘should’ normally be zero.
@Chip - does the behaviour occur at all tracks with the Porsche GTE? Have you tried any other combinations?
My rig is in pieces until Sunday (decorating…) - I mostly race historics but recall that the FFB in the GTE and GT3 official cars can be epic. My SC2 Pro is set to max torque capability but the in-game multiplier needs to be way down (50-65% or maybe less) for the cornering forces to be manageable for me with those cars.
If you can confirm the track(s), I/we can test for the same behaviour with default settings etc. fairly easily.
@MrFox@EsxPaul@Jan_Kowal Problem fixed by uninstalling game AGAIN, but deleting all residual rFactor 2 folders this time as well. I hope it doesn’t happen again! Was a good excuse to clean up everything though I suppose. Thanks for your help!
hi guys, new SC2 owner here, i will finally mount my rig with SC2 pro and cube controls formula pro wireless tomorrow. i was trying to follow this neverending thread to find informations on how to set my wheel but i’m literally lost in here could you please point me in the right direction to have the best starting point with both TD software and rf2 settings?
ATM the only one thing i did is to put the wheel image in the TD window:
I find these TrueDrive settings to be the best overall. The default SC2 Pro profile in rF2 is good, but I’ve changed mine using the same values in the link.
EDIT: To clarify, you will need to change max torque value in JSON file to match your wheelbase (SC2 Sport vs Pro vs Ultimate). So, 25 for the Pro for example.
I don’t think that the custom files were the fix…they might have been, but it seems unlikely given that the custom files don’t change really anything other than kerb/collision effects. I had to delete and reinstall the game including the user folder. You could just try deleting the user folder as well. I realize either deletion option is a huge pain/inconvenience, but that’s what fixed it for me. I have no idea how I would have fixed it otherwise.
I deleted the User folder because of the weird steering issues I had with the 911 RSR as well as with other cars. That did not help. I still get huge rapid fire vibrations as soon as the car moves forward. Same with the Radical SR3 and a few others.
Are you able to run the 911 RSR now with 100% FFB in TrueDrive?
Apologies if I’ve missed this in the back history, but have you got anything set for ‘minimum torque’ in the in-game FFB settings (a hangover from an older non-DD wheel?). Min torque should definitely be zero and any other value would/could contribute to rapid oscillations.
No, I deleted the entire UserData folder and had rF2 rebuild it, so I have no pollution from previous profiles, etc.
With the SR3 and the RSR 911, as well as with a couple of others, with 100% FFB in TD and as soon as I start rolling the car, the wheel vibrates so fast it’s like an ultra-high speed jackhammer. Only hitting the brakes stops this manic vibration. I have to turn the FFB down below 70% to get it to stop occurring. It only happens with a few cars.
I’ll try it out ASAP and respond/edit this post when I can with my results. rF2 seems to be so finicky, but when it works, it’s amazing.
Update: No weird issues with the 911RSR. I guess the next option is to uninstall the game and reinstall it? I used 100% strength setting with 45 gain in rF2.
I forgot to try 75 strength in rf2. I will do so and report back. Although with 100% strength in true drive, using 75% in rf2 would be far too much with the 911RSR (at least with the Simucube 2 Pro). I will try it out regardless though and report back.
Thanks. I’m starting to form a list of rF2 official cars - from either S397 or ISI - that exhibit extreme vibration on 100% in-game FFB and TD FFB @100% as well. So far, the 911 RSR and the Radical SR3 are the worst - impossible to drive at 100 / 100.
I ran some experiments last night with 911 RSR and with the Norma LMP3. Both have power steering, and both race on the same tracks in the main IMSA series and ELMS, so I can compare lap times and also watch the onboards to check driver inputs and wheel reactions.
What I noticed with dropping both the in-game FFB and the TD Strength is that you can extract more detail from the FFB when you start using the Reconstruction Filter. I was using 0 RF before and I changed it to 1 Minimum “Fast”.
What happened? With the RF set to “1” the tyres became far more nuanced and I could feel the suspension travel through the wheel. I had been using RF “0” for several weeks and I am really surprised at the large change in the overall feel when going from 0 to 1.
This made the 911 RSR so much more interesting to drive (and got rid of most of the vibrations) and I played around with things like Static Force Reduction, Inertia and Friction so that my steering inputs match up with the on-board footage. I know some drivers are much stronger than others, but you can see on tight turns like La Source (T1 @Spa) or T7 (Hairpin @Sebring) how much input is needed to get the car to rotate.
As Alan McNish says, “a modern race car’s geometry is designed around its power steering.” And this is really critical to understand how steering is supposed to behave, how quickly you can move the wheel, and the difference between the wheel getting light because the FFB is not set up correctly and the wheel getting light because the power steering is working as intended.
could you please point me in the right direction to have the best starting point with both TD software and rf2 settings?
