Recommended settings on Raceroom 2020

I do, wheels seems a lot less snappy if set to values under 4 (and because it acts as a multiplier I tried 1 and felt decent).
Try yourself and tell me if that’s just placebo or not…

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Can’t test at the moment but found this on RD


Seems like accordingly to “S3 Peter” (dev I guess) it’s for gamepad controllers only.
And to work needs to analog sectors to be non zero, as it multiplies them by that coefficient, and they all 0 for steering wheels.

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And this

We discussed “Return multiplier” several times with the SimBin staff in the paste and they always told us, it was only for gamepads.

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oh dear, let’s pretend nothing happened then :slight_smile:

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Hey Guys,
EsxPaul told me something is going on here. The first thing you should know:

The new SC2 rcs file is not intended for 100% FFB strength in truedrive. It was made to fit to the max game output. So if you use the default 50% FFB in truedrive you WILL get 12.5 Nm in fast corners like eau rouge.

Turning your SC2 to 100% in truedrive and lowering the ingame output is like maxing out the speaker of an old TV while minimizing the CD Player output. It leads to a worse signal-to-noise ratio. Out of that, sudden FFB peaks which may come due to any kind of bug will knock your arms with the full 25Nm in worst case. You should leave the max input force ingame and adjust truedrive to the desired strength.

The 55% steering rack was my personal preference and was just adopted by the developers.
Out of that we were able to fix the remaining forces when leaving the track by ESC.
And most important: The curb-effect was fixed and no longer will brake your hands.

Setting up default profiles for everybody is not as easy as it seems. It must match with the default car multiplicators and should not go into clipping for various wheelbases.

Regards Martin

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No, it IS friction.
And you have 2 “types”.
The stationary friction now is reduced to 0.35 by default. (This is for the 50% default FFB strength in truedrive)
When starting the engine the servo steering is simulated, which causes a first drop in friction. Afterwards the friction reduces when accelarating until 2.77 m/s is reached, at this point the stationary friction is 0

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Thanks for coming over to give us your input @Martin_Petermann :slightly_smiling_face:

I think in my case, I would have to reverse my current settings to retain the strength level that I’m happy with.

So, 100% steering force intensity in game and 70% in True Drive.

Having True Drive set at 50% wouldn’t feel quite strong enough for me personally, although I recognise that I could receive strong FFB peaks as you mentioned.

Jeez, I’m a dope.

Ignore my post above. I’d completely forgotten that Steering Force Intensity can go above 100!

I’ve taken the advice given by Martin and have changed my overall TD strength to 50% (12.5Nm) and moved the in game Steering Force Intensity to 120%.

No ill effects on the FFB and it’s lowered the possibility of extreme jolts that you may find when you venture off track.

Next big step for me would be to work out how to lower the wheel wanting to snap back to centre :slightly_smiling_face:

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After last update I had to up TD strength to 100% from 60% to get to the same level as before with the same Steering Force Intensity 75-80% to have some signal headroom to avoid clipping.
In practice as far as FFB quality goes, changing in game or in driver strength should produce the same results. The only reason to limit in driver is safety if sim sends some uncotrolled signal like iRacing during crashes. And I am happy to report that after recent update FFB from contacts in R3E is much more civil.
If anything it’s more a personal preference than hard rule.
Can you please explain the reason behind high steering rack force settings, it was the one that was making things feel out of place.

Is it DI Friction, guess this is the confusion as I didn’t see that effect active in TD. Dropping DI damper did help with mammoth wheel resistance when stationary though.

The stationary friction is a value in R3E which simulates the resistance of the tyres to turn while the car stands still. And this value is only changeable in the rcs file.
There is still room for improvement, as this value is a multiplier of the overall FFB strength. This leads to complete different feeling for DDs vs. a G29 for instance

That wasn’t my question, but I guess you imply that it is not implemented via Direct Input Friction Effect but simulated via constant force.

you should still be cautious. Even if contacts with other cars are more civil, sometimes the FFB does crazy things during impacts on walls (even with collision effect at 0%)
During beta testing i had a few FFB peaks wide above clipping, which could have ripped of my hands.
Therefore i would suggest to lower the TD FFB strength and increase the “steering force intensity”
The 55% steering rack is just my personal preference, as i feel better when the rear of the car gets snappy.
But as said before, FFB is a personal thing. I am happy with my settings and they are good enough for Top20 overall in R3E.

oh that is too far into detail. Only the developers could answer this i think

Thanks Martin.
So related question, how to avoid signal clipping if Steering Force intensity is at 100% or even higher as Paul set it to. In all other sims general recommendation is to leave some headroom there.

the default 45% steering force intensity was chosen, so that you are just below clipping for the cars with most FFB (on default car multiplier).
If you have a low FFB car like the GT3 and like the FFB harder, you should increase the car multiplier until it is just below clipping. If it is then still too weak you should increase FFB in TD

Andrew, I was just checking this and I do still have some headroom with my settings.

At maximum I’m about 75% of the way towards the redline on the in game FFB meter.

I should add, that’s with a GT3 car with the standard per car multipliers.

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on dtm 16 in eau rogue you will probably get into clipping then

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Martin, any chance S3 adds keybindings for car FFB multiplier, going to pits every time for little FFB adjustment is quite a nuisance.

I’ll keep a close eye out for clipping on the higher downforce cars and increase the TD slider if needed.

Thanks for the tips.