Hello all 
With the new versioning, we tried to obtain the most realist FFB from SC2 Pro
[2021.12 build].
If you have any feedback or ideas to improve it don’t hesitate.
I used some telemetry of the Mige engine, filtering signals,…
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I tried it now on the RB Ring and it felt really great. I just had to turn down the Strength to 20nm cause it was too strong for my Asher.
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Why don’t you post it the traditional way so us the “grumpy gang” can try it as well 
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I dont have any real life experience in GT3 , but i liked youre profile in the Pcup 992.
If i let the strenght be at 100%, it was to heavy for me over time in a race, but it gave very good feedback. I dont think i`ve felt the front wheels loose grip as clearly as this before.
It was too liveliy for me though, to use in race. A bit too loose in center, and with the high strength and loose center it made me wiggle the wheel alot more than i should.
I reduced the strengh to 80% (and 20nm in iracing), and it got better, but then i lost some of the good feedback.
My referance go-to profile in iRacing, is the one from Jon Miller, with 20nm in iracing wheel strenght, and 30-32nm in the blackbox.
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Is this for all cars, or car specific like F3, or F1?
I’m going to give the profile a try and report back.
Hi,
Thanks for your feeds, i try my best for the feeling
Real GT3 / GT4 gets more strenght.
It’s an profile for all GTx / LMPx / FRx / PCUP / …
For Dirt Road, i’m using 19NM with 96NM
Yep, i want to have the best front grip return. Hard to feel with the new 992. I prefer the old pcup <3.
Wheel rotation = 900°
Max Strenght at 25 NM
Damper at 0
Min Force at 0
Use FFB => Checked
Use Linear Mode => Checked
MAX TORQUE NM DELTA
BETWEEN 96 - 62 NM
PERSONNAL (86NM FOR GT3 / PCUP AT 72NM / 96NM FR2.0 - FR3.5 - P2)
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Interesting… These look alot like the settings that I use to get realistic feel, based on past Race Car driving experience… The Main thing though that I think is working for us is the Slew Filter… I do use much more at the wheel force as I run Max force at 42 with these settings for a Specific Output of .595:1.
I generally use these for everything, but do tend to up Max force to 25 for low force cars such as the Miata and then for super High Force cars such as the Indy I generally use around 60 - 65 (with some set-up changes)
Direct Input effects aren’t used by iRacing so I am not showing those but i leave them at 100%
I don’t use the cloud stuff so unless someone I originally gave these to has posted them they aren’t up there but I thought I would post them here since it is a thread about achieving realistic feel settings.
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Do you use these settings for all cars, or specific ones?
All cars… though as expected even with real race cars some are more brutal than others… and on certain cars I do change the Steering Geometry to more realistic settings… i.e iRacing puts the 8 tooth steeing pinion on the IndyCars default where in Real Life they actually use the 6 tooth for road and street courses which lightens the steering tremendously… As well with the Dirt Sprints you can adjust the steering Ratios and pitman arm to reduce at the wheel forces through actual car set-up…
I think I racing sets these cars default to the Heavier settings so that lower wheels can “feel” things since you cannot get actual strength out of the most common Belt Drives.
That’s all actually super interesting to know.
Do you use those settings on just Oval tracks, or in Road/Open Wheel cars too? ie: F3 and F1?
I’m going to give them a go.
I gave Team Techone’s settings a go and really really liked them in the GT3 cars.
I use them on everything… Oval and Road… There are as I think i mentioned some cars like the Indy Cars that are just so strong that I get worn out quickly at the Specific Output that I run (.595:1), but I have provided these settings to others who are equally happy when running at lower power outputs (higher than 42 Max Force (which is what I run) in iRacing)
Yeah, i had the ingame nm waay lower (35-40) to get more center feel…
Tested again at 45-50 today, and the profile is really good for sure 70+ is way to light feel for me in the 992, the 991 was alot heavier on the steering (i also miss the 991)…
Hey !
I made an new one for 2022 season,
Testing many SR value from 1.0 to 4.0 / Off (Prefer it “Off” less clipping),
In my last profile, was using the "boxthislap testing value @3.28
Same for ULLM and my best value is 18%.
For the reconstruction filter { GT => 5 ; for Formula => 4 }
Using it for all cars on IR.
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This was a good improvement TT1!
As a matter of fact, this just replaced my Default profile (Jon Miller is my second choice, but feels too loose in center, and not enough feedback at slip)
In the radical, i`ve never felt so good FFB before.
Havent tested other cars yet, but i really like this so far.
I must say that i dont understand why you are running 100% power with low ingame settings though. (i.e. i normally run 992 at 80% and 35 ingame)
I adjusted to 80%, and run the Radical at 67 now, and it`s a perfect match for me between force and not wearing my arms completly during a race… With a bigger wheel, i still keep 80%, but adjust up ingame alittlebit.
Edit; good point regarding wheel (comment below). I use a SC2 pro with a 300mm SRB GT3 wheel.
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Good morning,
I think it would be a good idea to show what steering wheel you use too. Since i have the SC2 Pro, i’ve been testing lots of online profiles on TD and most of them (80%) don’t work fine with my steering wheels (Tahko GT21, Ascher Racing F28-SC V2, Drifting with offset…) I think this point is important. The steering wheel weight, material construction, etc, make the feeling was completely different .
I tested your profile and i feel it very good with Ascher. Your comment about the SR (clipping), i’ve tried to change values and it doesn’t affect too much for clipping on my tests. Strength is more critical, at least to me when i play with different setups. The ultra low latency mode, i read a lot about this parameter and it seems to be mandatory to set it to 15% aprox on Iracing and to be honest, i don’t feel any significant difference. Maybe it was mi graphics card and fast monitor that attenuates this effect. Can you notice it on 18%?
I think to modify ULLM values is a minor internal hardware correction to fine-tune and some people describes it like something so important. I cannot really notice driving the sim on real time.
Greetings.
I made some test again before the official S2
Going to FR3.5 and keep continue in PCUP (my favorite since 991).
ULMM at 16/18/19/20% : i’ve got better feeling at 16. Very hard to feel 16-18.
For hardware => 3090, 5950X, NEO G9 with x570 chipset on CH8.
For wheel / hub => Ascher F28 L + MOMO D30 (32mm). So heavy wheel.
-
With heavy wheel, you not need high value for friction and inertia.
Ideal friction values i’ve found are between 7-12.
Ideal inertia values, 3% for GT’s car, 5-6 for Formula. So i made the choice to took 4% for an all cars profile. Running some endurance with P2, GTE, GT3. -
Yep, i think too for the % of ULLM.
Depends of the hardware configuration and OS.
BIOS USB settings, chipset, versioning, etc …
With recent and high-end PC, it’s a bit useless. iRacing give 15-16% for ideal value. Go with that. -
For the Slew Rate, i’ve tested all values during a week. From 0.5 to 7.95
Not bad for GT3/GT4/GTE at 1.2-1.47 and 3.0-3.28
Switching “off” help me to get a little more details and i adjust this feeling with the 1500Hz filter. -
I past more time on the Reconstruction Filter & Torque Bandwith limit to adjust and check on MoTec.
1500 & 2200 Hz are the top for me.
=> Best settings to adjust to obtain a quick and better feeling.
ps : it’s very different with and without gloves and without. I always made profiles without.
Without, it’s ok for 2200Hz with i’d prefer 1500hz. Again, it’s very personnal.
I’m finally happy with this profile and gonna use it for the entire season.
Good luck to all ! See you on track !
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Changelog (v1.0.4) : 2022.2
- Some adjustments since i’m running in FR3.5, this season.
- Trying to get less oscillation & more grip control.
I’m using SC2 Pro v2 / Ascher HUB B16-L + Momo Mod. 30 (320mm)
Ascher HUB B-16L = 1000g
Momo Mod.30 = 1120g
Ascher F28-SC-V2 = 1000g
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Until FFB wheel manufacturers and/or game programmers and/or FFB programmers (Microsoft Direct Input, Immersion Corp, etc.) find out how to make FFB behave more like a passive (ie. reactive) system rather than an active system, good luck trying to make FFB realistic - especially when using high-powered FFB devices (ie. DD wheels). The power, fidelity, acceleration, etc. of these wheels is far, far, far beyond the FFB technology itself.
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Updated for s3 !
Changelog :
----------------
– I’ve found my ideal car to tune the front tyres grip “feeling” and rear slip => V8 Supercar
– Filter smoothness switch to “7” with “3300Hz”
– SR changed to 3.42 NM/ms
All Fine tuning are off after tested them again last build but it’s too “artificial”.
