do you have all the direct force filters on the right hand side of the app at ‘0’?
Yes 0
I find when the value is at 0 the wheel get loaded at corners and it’s more difficult to get a feel for the tire grip and slip. I’ve noted that with higher values I can sense the tire giving, skidding, sliding. Too much though and it’s not useful so I find a threshold and it may very well be impacted by my settings for inertia, dampening and friction.
Additionally the topic on force has been discussed. Leaving your servo at max and adjusting in game promotes better response of fine detail. But you’d have to try that yourself and see if you notice any difference.
Hi Seb
The issue [for me] with having the SC at max force, is that I find many of the cars feel far too strong in the 45-65Nm range, which is why I prefer the approach of allowing all cars to remain within the iRacing fidelity ‘sweet spot’ of 45-65Nm, which means I have to reduce the SC max force.
I guess it’s different for everyone, but I think it’s generally agreed that values in iRacing outside of that range essentially just produce ‘noise/garbage’ data.
I’d rather have all the good data, even if that means reducing the SC max force - the alternative is a very strong wheel, with a lot of useless data.
I noticed that right away that the motor would be overdriven at 16amps also.
I wondered how it would change things?
I’m always open to improvements.
I’ll try running at lower amps for say the gte and see if I feel any difference and how it affects the filters.
So I tried the wheel at lower amperage and didnt immediately notice any difference with the same settings aside from adjusting the iRacing strength to match the previous power setting.
Perhaps with lower Amps there may be less oscillation to have to control down the straights which in turn could mean the filters could be turned down a tad. I will play with this some more comparing while driving.
I played around with the static force reduction Glove Spy. I find when it is at or close to 0 the tires feel like they are fighting me too much into turns, with SFR that is toned down some to allow me to steer into the turn without feeling like the tires are loading up like tight springs. The wheel tends to then have moments when its lighter vs heavier and it gives me some perceived tire slip. With it off, if the tire slips i dont really feel it until the wheel snaps back on the correction.
Is this your experience? or am I off here.
My last settings with lower max current and 25NM max force in game
I took out SFR, it feels good albeit a more active wheel.
A bit of SFR might be better for me IMO.
Good that you lowered the amps to 12.86. this will allow you to try others setups and insure you feel what they feel. At least close to it. 
Normally it has been found best to have nm set to 50-60 in iRacing. Then lower force in Simucube software to get the strength you are looking for.
The reason for this is in certain cars that have high force outputs you loose the info on the higher end. " Clipping"
The explanation of how all of this works in iRacing is pretty complex to explain. Brion Sohn has a good thread on iRacing about it.
If you are looking to feel more what the car is doing I would try lowering the filter from 7 to 5, but this will also make the wheel more active.
I have many guys that like to run it around 2. I always preferred 5, but I haven’t raced in a while so that could change with the newer firmware.
I understand the principle you discuss. I don’t like it too active because it’s not like what I’d expect in a real car. I’m after more tire slip feeling and not like I have bicycle tires.
I’m going to lower the power for each car I think based on what their max telemetry might be and adjust power to suit. I don’t mind the lower 7.84amp setting I’m using for GTE and 25NM in iracing. If it clips above 25NM I assume it’s a crash as no way those cars put out 25NM during driving. Unless I go over a curb perhaps.
I thought you understood things pretty well. You have been around for a while. 
Hello everybody. it’s not been easy for me to set up my Simucube1 as it had a thrustmaster T300.
I leave here the settings I’m using and ask the more experienced ones for your opinion and help… 
Marco that’s a good starting point but try dropping friction to 5 and try it
Hi Marco
What car are you driving in iRacing with those settings? Are you trying to get the Simucube1 to feel like your T300?
With max force in game at 60nm and only 45% overall strength in Simucube, you are running low levels of force feedback. The wheel may still feel stiff because you have damping, friction and inertia quite high.
Try increasing overall strength in Simucube to 100% and lowering damping and friction to 10% each and see how that feels.
There is a very good post in the Hardware section of the iRacing forum by Brion Sohn called “iRacing Force Feedback Setup Explained - Wheel Systems” which you will find very helpful with setting up the Simucube1.
hi Ceolmor I currently drive the BMW M4 GT3
in conversation with a professional simracer he commented to me that Iracing does not assume the other filters. that’s true?
Yes, iRacing does not use any of the DirectInput effects, its just uses physics based torque signal.
he even refers to the “other filters” Damping/Friction/Inertia/Stati Force Reduction
Those filters are operating on the device. Racer should set them up as preferred. iRacing does not control those settings in any way.