I’m a little concerned about large full power spikes (particularly in game that are developing like AMS2). My thought is to run ~45% power in the True Drive software and adjusting the in-game power within iRacing to prevent from clipping.
In that scenario, should I still set the max force to 25Nm inside iRacing or should i lower it to 11Nm (45% of full power) inside iRacing?
You should set it so that your FFB is not clipping in iRacing. Around 30 or 35 Nm is enough there for most cars, and those that have stronger FFB will clip in kerb strikes and other FFB situations that do not have information value.
Thank you for the quick reply. I think you’re referring to the maximum force. I understand that one well.
I’m asking if the Wheel force should remain at 25nM or if I should lower it to the corresponding power in True Drive. So, for my example 45% would be around 11Nm.
Maximum force will set the strength you feel at the wheel. Wheelforce is the one that should probably be set at what your actual wheel output is i.e. 11Nm if you are setting the wheel at 45%.
If you want to really learn all about how to set-up the FFB in iRacing please visit this link in the forums and it goes over pretty much every aspect of how to set up strength.
there are many many different methods to set up the forces in iRacing that range from allowing the wheel to fully extend itself and try to recreate everything to imposing clipping on the wheel to eliminate harsh reactions.
As far as other games it is hard to say but generally I personally still use the wheels at 100% but turn down the gain in the game… iRacings system workes completely different than most games in the way that FFB strength is set.
I struggle with good TD settings for GT3 cars… these still feel numb to the point it makes me furious. No sense of understeer, no feel in the braking zone, not recognizable losing the rear out of corners. Most other cars are good though. I remember having had good settings but I guess I’ve overwritten those with further “non-sensical” one’s.
What are your TD settings specifically for GT3/GTE cars?
THX, the link seems cut off though.
I had a training session yesterday with 488GT3 on Barcelona Historic, achieving something around 1:42.3, struggling hugely with having extremely poor FFB. This morning I did an experiment with activating irFFB once more, and I could do 1:42.6 within 2-3 laps. So, as far as GT cars in iRacing go, it may be better to use irFFB in order to overcome the lack of proper tire parameters, these cars still have. At least compared to other iRacing cars.
These are great, thanks. One question: those Max Force settings in iRacing for each car, are they the “Auto” settings after a few laps, or just what you feel is best?
I ask because I have similar settings and clicking “Auto” after a few laps in the P217 gives me a Max Force of 40nm, which is undriveably heavy. Wondering if I’ve got anything else wrong.
What happens with the “auto” setting is that as you are driving iRacing is logging your Telemetry (probably in some sort of a buffer that will hold a few laps) in the same manner it would if you press the buttons to record and save your telemetry. After that buffer is filled the “auto” button lights to allow you to use that data to analyze the telemetry for the steering telemetry output used during those laps that are in buffer. With this it figures out what the Peak Telemetry for steering torque is and than is removes anything over appropriate 98% to try to eliminate errant spikes or abnormalities. It then readjusts your Max Torque number to this calculated amount.
The Issues with auto are the following:
#1 - If you are a very smooth driver that 98% could remove some usable data at the upper end of the spectrum… To solve this add a few Nm to the number generated.
#2 - The auto setting is specific to the session on that track with that weather, set-up, car, driving, tire temps… all the way down the line… though the number man cover that car on different tracks there could be some abnormalities in the setting if you end up on a grippier track or you change anything about your set-up, the result would be premature clipping. This also means that while you can switch between cars easily ONLY cars that are weaker than the one set by Auto will not clip… other more powerful cars will as the MAX Force needed would be higher than the set amount.
Anyone who can share his OVAL (road) profile? I do use SC2 pro exclusively for road section GT/GTE/LMP2 but I can imagine profiles for Oval can be very different.
Hello guys. So I am proud owner of a SC2 pro, switching from DD1 and oh boy it feels good. Anyway I was looking for the best settings for iRacing, since I drive LMP2s and GTEs. I feel pretty good with reconstruction to 3, DAM 3, FRI 5, IN 3 and Low latency to 19. The rest is set to default. What do you suggest?
Yeah I like an active wheel but I would like to find a reasonable balance between responsiveness and easiness of control. My current settings are:
Overall strenght 100
Steering Range 900
Bumpstop feel Hard
Bumpstop range 900
Reconstruction 3
Torque bandwith Unlimited
Damping 3
Friction 5
Inertia 4
Static Force Reduction Off
Slew Rate Limit Off
Ultra Low Latency 19
The rest is default.
Thanks for the help.