Sorry but why on earth would you pay for a DD wheel and then run it at 17%?
I am not trying to be rude, I am genuinely curious. At these torques, I’m sure a belt drive could produce 90% of the feeling for 20% of the price.
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My wet Dreams since 2001* was a Ffb wheel like the Logi MOMO (Red) with unlimited steering range and no cogging/motor bumps.
Since then, ffb wheels change a lot but DirectX ffb Dont.
My Dream comes true last year.
Should I turn off the Reconstruction Filter when using the irFFB?
I don’t think most recommend irffb as that introduces too much latency.
You should set the recon filter very low. Maybe 1 or even off.
Even if you don’t use the 360hz modes, the interpolation of irffb is better than the recon filter, imo.
So I’ve always used irffb when I had the time to set it up for both that as well as the obvious 60hz iceracing issue.
Reg. latency it depends on the mode, as you’re prob. already aware, so if you find it an issue irffb still is better even in the lowest latency mode that really should not make you any slower, while it will feel better.
Thanks for the suggestion, like you said, it seems you need less of the Reconstruction filter, since irffb already dampens the effects.
any tips on making F3 car have more ffb detail? I made my own custom settings for iRacing and I have made settings that seem to work well with almost all of the cars but when I tried the F3 car the ffb seemed very dead aka there is barely any feedback from the road but very strong feedback from curbs. these are my settings
maximum torque is set at 15 nm
Just go down with Friction (like 0 or 1), then try UltraLowLatency at 15 to Get less bounce back forces, 16 to achieve a more Direct centering forces
After all of that, go down with Overall strenght.
As others have said run the recon low if you are using irFFB probably 1 but not off… the reason for NOT OFF is that there is another boost in frequency from the irFFB output to the simucube Drive system up to (if I remember correctly) 2500hz. Yes there is a little correction by the Recon filter but it does so on the irFFB signal.
Generally speaking you don’t need irFFB with the SimuCUBE unless… you are wanting it for its special add in features like SOP and susupention boosts.
What are you running for iRacing Max force?? and as well SimuCUBE wheel strength.
I get the feeling that suzuka’s tarmac is too smooth, I just did the ferrari challenge and I felt the same feeling with the F3.
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All of the Japanese tracks are known to be slippery in real life.
Something to do with shells mixed into the tarmac.
At least that’s the rumor. 
It’s smooth in ACC too. 
Yes, Suzuka is very smooth.
I sometimes get a (slight) CLUNK when driving. It doesn’t feel like road texture. I typically notice it just after I’ve gone through some high load corner, where I’ve been fighting the wheel, and as I exit and return the wheel to centre, and the loads disappear, I feel a bit of a bump or notch or click in the wheel. Has anyone else felt this?
After more testing, it seems to be occurring when I have had loads in one direction, and then turn the wheel back to centre or slightly in the other direction, then there are some clicks or notches (like something settling back into place?). It’s not my rig or cable, my settings are sensible (everything close to default, no clipping). This happens on many car/track combinations, but right now I am driving the M8 GTE at Road Atlanta.
EDIT: after even more testing I think I have concluded that it’s either the SQR on my main wheel or the Cube Controls button box shifting slightly. I tested it back and forth with a Motamec wheel bolted straight to a second SQR, and could not reproduce. Next I’ll switch the SQR from my main wheel with my spare, and see if it keeps happening. If so, it’s the CC button plate. I will also give everything a tighten.
It’s not a huge problem, and doesn’t even really bother me now that I think I know what it is.
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Thanks for the advice, I have the RF set to 1 for all cars. Regarding irFFB, the FFB with irFFB turned on is a big stepup, as turning is smooth now and not so blocky anymore, luckily the latency doesn’t bother me.
had the same issue, the screws on the 70mm pattern got loose over time, re-tightened them and the clunk is no more.
Which 70 mm pattern screws are you referring to? They were not the problem for me – I switched QRs around and with that I can’t reproduce the issue anymore, but I didn’t tighten the 70 mm pattern screws that connect the rim to the button box.
yeah, I meant the SC2 70mm pattern piece that connects to the rim itself.
Okay that might be true for your setup, but nothing of the SQR touches my rim (button box in between) and nothing on the my SQR has a 70 mm bolt pattern (the thin star-shaped piece does, but I’m not using that).
Apart from that, was what you experienced close to what I described, with something feeling like it was clicking back into place after the wheel first being loaded in one direction and then moving to the other?