Hi @phillip.vanrensburg I’am really enjoying your setup for gt and gte class cars and your td setup is baseline for all cars. I like heavier wheel and ffb but I’am little bit struggling with my Holden. Same values and 33nm/25nm on ir and td 25nm. Is it just car charasteric that wheel centre area is quite loose and lightish? But as you turn more there good ffb but I would like to have it same as gt and gte cars. I know they different but can one make with td or is it just what it is.
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Just don’t get hung up thinking that those are the only settings you can use to be at the top level. I held a Pro/WCS license for a couple of years and there was a huge variety of equipment and settings used amongst the drivers I talked to. We were firmly mid pack in the VRS World Championship but it was lack of talent rather than wheel settings that put us there!
What feels good to you is what you’ll probably go fastest with 
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I agree! The current settings I use I really like when driving with one exception. I still sometimes spin the Porsche cup car “randomly”. The car spins yet I have never felt or sensed anything. So I am looking forward to trying out settings of a pro driver, to see if I can better feel the when my car is losing grip. I suspect there won’t be any difference because iRacing FFB just doesn’t give that info to the wheel and you have to use your vision and other cues to get that info. But in case there is, I for sure want to feel it in my wheel! 
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Hotel12: What Simon said above 
And you’re welcome.
PS: Holden will be having a lighter steering than the M8 BMW, or Moocedes, for example. That is because iRacing models column-torque based on real-life data they get from teams, every car is different, thus they will feel very different in the sim too.
Most other sims I believe are using a similar or same model for all cars, not sure.
Cheers,
Beano
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If I change the overall strength to 13.5nm in TD, must I then change the in game wheel force slider to match or just leave it at 25nm for the SC2 Pro?
I want to run the auto ffb and see what strength the game recommends for me afterward.
the auto ffb recommends the maximum torque without clipping. That value has nothing to do with the car just with the maximum what the base can handle.
Not useful in my opinion.
My dangerous half knowledge means when you lower in TD than also lower Max Force
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Thank you.
I just tried auto and you are correct. It set the force far too high for my liking and I had a clipping notification beep in every corner 
I still can’t seem to get my head around how iracing ffb works.
I want to avoid the harsh forces when crashing so tried lowering the overall force in TD
I ended up with these in game settings for the MX-5
I thought you had to increase in game strength in comparison to the wheel force?
That’s the opposite of what I had to do with the Ford GT although I did have TD set at 100% overall force
I’m just not getting it 
You can avoid the violent crashes with slew rate limit at ~0.25.
Don’t know for sure that i understand what you mean in your second question.
The larger the Max Force value in iracing the weaker the ffb.
You cann see a more accurate (and more technical) explanation at the start of the thread
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I’ll try out the slew rate changes. Thanks!
What confuses me was that with the MX-5 settings, if I increased the Max Force, the FFB got stronger. That’s why I ended up setting it at 16.0 which doesn’t seem like a correct number.
Something strange going on there Paul, for the MX5 you have FFB displayed in NM but not for the Ford GT 
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Good spot, Simon. Thank you, I completely missed that 
It’s ‘Strength’ on the MX-5 and ‘Max Force’ on the Ford GT. I’ll go back in and take a look at that as I must have done something wrong along the way.
I will share my impressions of Max Benecke’s settings in case anyone will find it useful.
At first they felt strange because the wheel is very light with 30% static force reduction. However I immediately felt a lot more confident at driving the Porsche cup car. Somehow I felt in control. Then I decided to turn off static force reduction, because that by definition sound unrealistic. Now the wheel was a bit heaver which I liked during cornering. However I again started to have “random” spins on cold tires. So then I tried it with 15% static force reduction and I again felt in control of the car. So I really like these settings now and I enjoy driving the Porsche cup so much more now.
It really does feel that with high damping, inertia and friction settings you lose the feeling of what the car is doing and control becomes a lot harder. I have also noticed that Dan (the streamer) also has very similar settings to Max, just without static force reduction. I guess with static force reduction you just amplify the sudden changes in FFB which are needed to catch slides without the wheel being too heavy to move quickly when you try to correct the steering during o shit moments. I personally like the feeling with it at 15%, since it gives me nice feeling of force during a corner and also all the info I need to almost never lose the Porsche cup car.
Might not be realistic, but I’ve come to terms with myself that I prefer to be fast in a game than to feel like I am driving a real racing car. Especially since I will probably never get to drive this cars in real life So without knowing how these cars feel in real life, I can still manage to pretend I am driving them in the sim even with my settings
Here are the links to posts containing the said settings for future reference:
Benecke’s settings
Dan’s settings
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R0zina: And that’s the absolute beauty of the Simucube 2 -> it can accommodate a very wide range of settings. Glad you like it, enjoy
Thanx for the post! Questions: any oscillations on the strights with their settings? Also what force value in game? And would you say your physical steering wheel is a heavy or a light model?
Those settings are super impressive! I been using Dan’s settings for a while. But now i feel the throttle/angle better. I general feel the tires better. +1
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For the Porsche cup car I have 33 Nm in game force value and Ascher wireless wheel, which I assume is on the light side of things (around 1 kg if I am not mistaken). There might be a little oscillation on the straights, but they don’t spiral out of control and are not very strong.
Besides Daytona I’ve also tried Bell Isle which is known for its bumps. I’ve felt that the bumps are annoyingly rough. But for now I won’t change the settings until I get used to them. Will deal with Bell Isle when it comes on schedule again
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Probably a good idea to change the NM setting in the iRacing app.ini so that you always have it NM mode to avoid confusion.
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Trt also make this changes set filter to 40.0 Hz and Q Factor 1.8
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I have actually disabled the Peak notch filter and didnt notice any difference. What is it supposed to do?
Max Benecke and Team just won with those settings.(24 houer daytona) And i have to add i been driving 5-6 houers with em now and am still impressed how well i feel the angle of the car. I can be waaay more agressive with the throttle in the V8supercars. Now i want his settings on other sims also. If he even drive others.