I purchased my membership, downloaded and installed the game outside of Steam, then generated the code to link it to the Steam interface. Hopefully that won’t cause me any issues.
I’m just downloading updates for the various cars/tracks right now.
Is it best to run through all the auto configuration stuff or would I be better off requesting some basic ffb settings from you guys for something like the Mazda MX-5 and practising with that?
I’m also a iRacing noob, having joined proper a couple of weeks ago. I’m on SC1, but the experience is similar. I’ve driven exclusively the MX-5, chose a recommended ffb profile from the equivalent thread here for my wheel and stuck to with it. The more I drive the more I get used to and like the ffb feel I’m getting.
I’ve only done a couple of races, but they were both clean and close racing. Have fun.
@phillip.vanrensburg @Revan @Ceolmor
Thank you all. I shall search for a MX-5 profile and start there.
From the very little I know, I get the feeling this title leans toward building a library of individual, car specific TD profiles so I’m going to tread carefully.
Not the same approach for all, but if you Know about Digital Combat Simulator and its modules, then iRacing is very close to that type of simulation.
Taking any car like a New module is the best method for me
I would strongly recommend reading these threads on the iRacing forums for more information about its FFB:
https://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3659244.page
https://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3646421.page
https://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3645705.page
These 2 threads are meant for the simucube1 but still have lots of information:
https://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3573261.page
https://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3517883.page
Yes Paul,
You will need to have a profile per car but you probably won’t drive many different types in a season or across seasons.
To be competitive in iracing it is best to stick with 1 car in each discipline (oval and road) if you wanna focus on irating climb.
I once had 4000 irating running only 1 car then decided to try another and dropped to 2000 
I would suggest a profile per car class and from there you can adjust per car strength ingame.
I can provide some profiles for you when i’m back home. I started for myself with Beanos Merc Profile some months ago and from there i developed my own profiles for different car classes like Porsche Cup, Open Wheelers.
I have a “set it and forget it” truedrive profile and only adjust the FFB strength for each car. Usually around 42-60nm ingame and 100% strength.
Same here, no idea why people would need to change anything other than overall FFB strength when changing cars.
For instance, slew rate limit is a useful feature when you configure the Dallara F3.
You can set a very powerful strength without having the wheel bouncing on every bump or kerb.
But i don’t need it in a GTE/GT3
Porsche Cup doesn’t need as much damping as a GTE (imho of cource ;)) and so on…
Revan is spot on as to why I started to create a profile per car. You can do some tweaks per car which improve the experience but also you can also create a general true drive profile and just make same ffb strength adjustment and still be fine.
It is a personal preference and honest a “how much time do you have to test” question
Does anyone have a good profile for the Porsche cup? I often lose my back and and I don’t seem to feel it through the wheel. It just seems like random spins to me, so I am wondering if my settings might be wrong for this car.
Im New to the Porsche Cup since NTM update and may not help too much but its a tricky car for me…
I achieve the best feeling by ramping up iR forces but then is clipping on long loaded turns… Not clipping on loaded turns = no tire feeling for me with this car…
Another issue that bothers me is that the car can turn more that the visual steering wheel and bumpstop dont work very well
I post one today evening when i’m back home
iRacing set the turning angle automatically for each car, you just have to set, lets say, 900° steering range in TD, 940° bumpstop range and calibrate iRacing to 900°.
The 900° are just the maximum what you need, you can also choose 1080 or 540 if you like. Just make sure you drive no car with more steering angle than what you calibrate.
Thats it.
My problem is more critical about the on screen steering wheel, it stops visually turning and iracing applies its software bumpstop before the car reach its “Real” bumpstop so I become paranoid thinking that the car did not reach its full turning range
On VR is very distracting
I am in VR with SC2 Pro, no such issues at all. Have you edited the bumpstops in iracing .ini file?
I use this ini file setting, same for both SC1 and 2
Alse here, a guide from Augury.
Could also be that you do something wrong when you calibrate?
You should have 900 DOR in TD, and calibrate to 900 in iracing.
IIRC im using very low bumpstops in app.ini, 10 or 15.
But my concerns is about ingame steering wheel, can you try the P911Cup with your settings and do one test for me?
—Spin in any track, try to do a full turn with the car stopped to continue your lap in the right way and see if you have more turning radius past the visual steering g ingame
Edit: I can watch it on replays, turn my wheel to the limits you can see how the driver stop its motion but tires are still turning