Ok,
So maybe just make this unadjustable part of it accessible for everybody?
It’s all I need, personally. I know of others I’ve heard from they’d like that same thing…
Feel free to hide it under advanced/advanced/advanced/secret settings.
Or put it in the “Simucube 2 Factory” windows registry key, like some other things 8)
I have sc2 sport and received profile of someone with the pro.
If he has iracing settings of max force 50 and wheel force 25 should I use max 34/wheel 17 to have similar experience?
Or are profiles not transferable between sport and pro?
Correct, you should.
I will mention that while alot of users do go to this philosophy the issue I would point out is that DD wheels especially (Going off Brand) the DD1/DD2 and smaller motor units react and spin up extremely quickly… This leads to a situation where the servo is imparting motions quicker than what would be real and can lead to things like overcorrection, harshness over bumps and curbs, and just plain additional driver fatigue that wouldn’t be there normally… So finding a good balance on the filters to control the servo correctly is pretty big in getting a comfortable and realistic driving system. Having used so many different wheels myself there are reasons to have the more active nature of some over others but generally if you are looking for pure realism you won’t want that or you will want to know you can tune it out… NOT all wheels have the ability to tune into both helms and that is one area where the SimuCUBE firmware/software seems to have an advantage over other brands is that it is wide ranging enough that it is possible to go in either direction… This is also why it Disappoints me that they are “simplifying” the interface because “our research shows that XX number of the people we get information from don’t use this” BTW I opted out of the Data send with my SC2.
I’m sorry, but you are wrong. extremely quickly… This leads to a situation where the servo is imparting motions quicker than what would be real and can lead to things like overcorrection, harshness over bumps and curbs is the problem of all simulators. iracing is very , very close to reality, there is a little fix with tire deformation and tire temperature graphycs build up + some other little tweaks and it become brilliant. There is no problem in DD wheels in this dirrection. But anyway FFB must be tunned, but i think from the side of iracing
If you have used as many different DD wheels as I have your opinions might be a little different on this… But having driven Lighter faster wheels and Heavier more Naturally dampened wheels along with Many others in between you do get a sense for where the wheel itself and the way it delivers information (regardless of the game) and drastically can change the way the information is Felt at the user end of the wheel… In iRacings case all of the information they send to the wheel is based off of telemetry models… They do not impart “Canned” effects which are common in many other games… Given this that can adjust their tire compounds or the Car model itself and Change the Feel of the car and make it feel better to use… But that change will be directed toward every wheel Brand in the same way…BTW I have seen overlays of Real Car telemetry data AND the iRacing data and the points of reference aligned way better than I expected given how many people complain about the Data being off. In the end some of those wheels react in ways that are significantly different than others and that of course is not on the Game developers to Tune to each and every wheel brand out there, it is the nature of Direct drive wheels as they are… Which this there are some servos and systems that allow for more tuning to eliminate adverse effects imparted on the user by the way it translates information and that is an important part of things.
New SimuCube2 Pro owner here. A quick question.
I’m a little concerned about large full power spikes (particularly in game that are developing like AMS2). My thought is to run ~45% power in the True Drive software and adjusting the in-game power within iRacing to prevent from clipping.
In that scenario, should I still set the max force to 25Nm inside iRacing or should i lower it to 11Nm (45% of full power) inside iRacing?
You should set it so that your FFB is not clipping in iRacing. Around 30 or 35 Nm is enough there for most cars, and those that have stronger FFB will clip in kerb strikes and other FFB situations that do not have information value.
Hi Mika,
Thank you for the quick reply. I think you’re referring to the maximum force. I understand that one well.
I’m asking if the Wheel force should remain at 25nM or if I should lower it to the corresponding power in True Drive. So, for my example 45% would be around 11Nm.
You can set the Wheel Force to same as in TD, but it doesn’t really have effect. All it does is set minimum for Max Force slider.
Maximum force will set the strength you feel at the wheel. Wheelforce is the one that should probably be set at what your actual wheel output is i.e. 11Nm if you are setting the wheel at 45%.
If you want to really learn all about how to set-up the FFB in iRacing please visit this link in the forums and it goes over pretty much every aspect of how to set up strength.
https://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3770438.page
there are many many different methods to set up the forces in iRacing that range from allowing the wheel to fully extend itself and try to recreate everything to imposing clipping on the wheel to eliminate harsh reactions.
As far as other games it is hard to say but generally I personally still use the wheels at 100% but turn down the gain in the game… iRacings system workes completely different than most games in the way that FFB strength is set.
Just found, directly from the competence, a very usefull guide with recomended Max force setting for most Cars (taken from VRS telemetry):
I like how “Non-linearity” filter sounds
I struggle with good TD settings for GT3 cars… these still feel numb to the point it makes me furious. No sense of understeer, no feel in the braking zone, not recognizable losing the rear out of corners. Most other cars are good though. I remember having had good settings but I guess I’ve overwritten those with further “non-sensical” one’s.
What are your TD settings specifically for GT3/GTE cars?
THX, the link seems cut off though.
I had a training session yesterday with 488GT3 on Barcelona Historic, achieving something around 1:42.3, struggling hugely with having extremely poor FFB. This morning I did an experiment with activating irFFB once more, and I could do 1:42.6 within 2-3 laps. So, as far as GT cars in iRacing go, it may be better to use irFFB in order to overcome the lack of proper tire parameters, these cars still have. At least compared to other iRacing cars.
You have to click on the upper right arrow
These are great, thanks. One question: those Max Force settings in iRacing for each car, are they the “Auto” settings after a few laps, or just what you feel is best?
I ask because I have similar settings and clicking “Auto” after a few laps in the P217 gives me a Max Force of 40nm, which is undriveably heavy. Wondering if I’ve got anything else wrong.
Not Auto settings. @bsohn can explain better what happens when hitting the auto button.
I began with some settings from @phillip.vanrensburg and optimized them for my own liking (Had not much to change anyway).
What happens with the “auto” setting is that as you are driving iRacing is logging your Telemetry (probably in some sort of a buffer that will hold a few laps) in the same manner it would if you press the buttons to record and save your telemetry. After that buffer is filled the “auto” button lights to allow you to use that data to analyze the telemetry for the steering telemetry output used during those laps that are in buffer. With this it figures out what the Peak Telemetry for steering torque is and than is removes anything over appropriate 98% to try to eliminate errant spikes or abnormalities. It then readjusts your Max Torque number to this calculated amount.
The Issues with auto are the following:
#1 - If you are a very smooth driver that 98% could remove some usable data at the upper end of the spectrum… To solve this add a few Nm to the number generated.
#2 - The auto setting is specific to the session on that track with that weather, set-up, car, driving, tire temps… all the way down the line… though the number man cover that car on different tracks there could be some abnormalities in the setting if you end up on a grippier track or you change anything about your set-up, the result would be premature clipping. This also means that while you can switch between cars easily ONLY cars that are weaker than the one set by Auto will not clip… other more powerful cars will as the MAX Force needed would be higher than the set amount.
Hi guys,
Anyone who can share his OVAL (road) profile? I do use SC2 pro exclusively for road section GT/GTE/LMP2 but I can imagine profiles for Oval can be very different.