How can you determine the correct notch filter?

I know that if you edit music at e.g. 50Hz with the equalizer, some tracks sound normal and others live on this frequency.
My question, is it advisable to use this filter?
Because I could eliminate the oscillation with it, but I would kill the information of the FFB in another place. Also, I don’t really plan to take my hands off the steering wheel while driving.
But it might actually be possible to achieve something sensible or useful.

Regards Manuel

Here we have the information, what it is, but how to determine the correct value?

“My question, is it advisable to use this filter?”
Yes it is! I use it every single time by a small amount.

If you use rF2 or iRacing, make FFT of your FFB in Motec.

Take this for your help.

DO not DO not EQ under 10Hz!

Have a nice Day…Max :smiley:

There is no “correct value” for this filter. If wheel resonates audibly in a bad way, you can use for example an audio spectrum analyzer on our phone to determine that frequency.

So you say we all should use this, even we don’t have a problematic frequency?
For me to understand: what you use is based on sound frequencyies. Where does it helps there? On loudspeakers, headphones, or what? And my last question is: when I have a problem with frequency, the recon filters do limit them. The notch filter is then to increase the precision of which frequency I’m after. And Q factor narrows it even more. Or is this wrong?

If you don’t have a problem then there’s nothing to fix.

Don’t try to overdo things. :wink:

I have no intention to use it. All I have are some questions for better understanding

You dont have to cut a specific Freq… most times i give the FFB a different tune.
like this for example.

Some times i need a more aggressive tune for curbs or something else. so at around 40-45Hz

Ok! Thanks for the answer! Very kind!

You asked if we all should use this and the answer is no. That’s what my answer above boils down to. :wink:

Regarding sound: it really depends on your application.
A notch filter can be useful for audio application, if you e.g. recorded something in an environment where there is a distracting noise at a constant frequency or frequency range. Then you can filter that by reducing or even removing this frequency from the spectrum.
It’s the same principle for the Simucube. If there is a frequency that should not be there, you can remove it using such a filter.

In more advanced application you can also use such a filter in images after applying a fast-Fourier transformation. (The latter transforms from the location information into a frequency spectrum, so you can see a spectrum of how quickly pixels change locally.) Then you can remove some of these frequencies and apply a reverse FFT. Removing frequencies here can help e.g. with noise reduction or Moire. Or, in case of video, with flickering.

Generally, though, you want to filter the signal as little as possible, for all of these applications, because filtering almost always results in loss of information. How much depends on the filter type and the parameters.

This Is what I asked

Everyone should at least give it a try. The notch filter is very cool but also a very powerful instrument in True Drive, if you set it wrong you can f*** really FFB.
I once saw one that set it to 2Hz, Q: 0.1 at -20dB or so. He killed his FFB.

I always have a basic tactic. I set up my Simucube2 like my bass guitar or bass amp. To create a solid foundation for my FFB. First the Torque Bandwidth Filter, then the Slew Rate, then the Notch Filter! The rest of the filters will then appear automatically.

Regarding notch filter, and reading the documentation, it seems the filter is disabled when the Hz is <1.5 so all Paddock profiles that have it at 0 Hz or 1 Hz have in fact it disabled. I’ll update the text in Paddock for any new profiles in the next True Drive release.

As long as I don’t have any vibrations and/or anything else that disturb me frequency wise I’ll prefer to stick with what @Mika proposes

Yes, and I said “don’t filter if you don’t have problems”, what’s so hard to understand about that?

Nothing. I never used it. Why so angry?

Sure! If you like it. Never change a running system!! But for me, I worked with this stuff since i am 13 and i love my way of doing it. It takes a lot of time, but the resaults are just great!

This is how i see the True Drive Software in my head and thats why i praise Granite for coding the software like it is. it is rational and understandable.

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Now you know why I maybe don’t get it…:grin:

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:+1:Nice! Ibanez… Warwick?

It comes very close to that of course not completely. But to get a foothold in FFB’ing, it helped me a lot to derive that from the bass amps.