How can you determine the correct notch filter?

Yamaha left handed Pacifica… I’m a bloddy newcomer. Just to be into music…to be into sounds

Oh a lefty. Hard to get stuff!
Keep it going, makes a lot of fun!

I fall in love with an Ibanez SR1500 since a long long time!

That is a bass guitar, right? What a wonderful bass❤️ Although the Yamaha is a total entry level product it gets very good reviews. And as a lefty… there are not so much choices for the price. But I love music, and playing guitar is difficult, and great fun, a very positive thing to do

The only real way is trial and error, Usually adjusting while actually driving the car in question… This is a VERY specialized filter and when you change cars the frequency spread and reduction of this filter could change.

This is why generally it is suggested just to leave it off…

Having it on with a car that doesn’t need it tends to cause a feeling of Blank FFB in a certain area of use… i.e .entering a corner you may find that the feedback feels it disappears and then comes back for no apparent reason.

My thought is also, in hi-fi, if I just set the equalizer down at 500Hz and leave all the others set normally, some songs just sound weird or lack something. Maybe this also ensures that certain resonance tones no longer occur, but I’d rather have these than miss something in terms of information when driving.

So in short, using it won’t improve anything and I don’t want to filter out curbs or anything like that. That’s part of racing.

Trail and error!?! That is not true. at least for rf2 and iracing!
Dont try try this at home! :wink:
You need the FFT of your FFB and your slew rate.

Can you explain the graphs… there is no context as to what you have altered on the filter or anything to change the resulting output…

The reason why I say trial and error is because generally you can analyze one corner or one set of date but that it is it is that one set of data you are correcting so if it is not something that is distinctly repeatable. you are actually going to compromise other portions of your drive…

It is sort of the same with an Audio EQ… Eq’s actually were never really designed of constant adjustment. They are designed to be able to adjust a Reference Tone(signal) to be as flat as possible within a certain environment… There are actually exacting methods you are supposed to use… BUT in practice that isn’t what is done… It is generally well this sounds better to me… Problem is what @Manolo mentioned is that a setting might make one piece of Music sound great but the Next is sounds terrible… it is hit and miss…

So my Trial and Error comment is similar to how we set an equalizer without all of the references… we listen, we adjust, we go OK that is a good compromise, then we move onto the next and go crap now I have to change that :-).

The best use of this filter would be if there was some sort of resonance that is caused by your wheel or rig that causes a loop back into the system and removing it … Sort of like removing static by knowing the base signal and adjusting for it… Problem is with FFB it is almost impossible to know what is constant Resonance frequency and what is signal change due to actual driving.