You seem to have problems with reading. The latest firmware was running fine and it could take weeks or months till the FFB-drops appear again if it hasn’t been fixed already, not minutes. And if the firmware is causing problems, many more people would have them, so it might not have been properly installed if it has anything to do with the firmware.
Different people, different taste in FFB feeling, different way sims implement in title dampening, some don’t even need any in TD.
And you got reasonable recommendation to revert to pre major rewrite FW version, yes, lots of people are trouble free on the new one, but seems like you might not be in that camp.
Nice buddy
You also seem reluctant to take advice that might solve your issue
I have read everything you have said. You stated that you had no issues until you updated the firmware. You’re also saying that the new firmware is fine but then you are still having issues whether it takes a couple weeks or a month? So then it’s not fine?
My solution of downgrading to the firmware where you had no issues takes less than a few minutes.
It seems like a logical way to rule out the firmware and potentially fix your issue
Since there are regular updates, possible problems will always happen after one and there will be a past firmware without problems. I was testing the newest fimrware for several hours and it was running fine. It didn’t happen right after an update and the delay could’ve been weeks. I forgot and I doubt that it is a firmware-problem since it would be replicable and happen way more often here and elsewhere. Since problems appear and also vanish out the blue, it seems more likely there is a loose contact maybe inside a cable or inside the base itself.
I’ve put the base into the box after replicable drops every session within 20 minutes, put it back on, did the new update and it was running fine. So if it was the firmware, it’s fixed. Possible that the emergency stop is causing it? Is there a possibility to use the base without it?
The e-stop is also affecting the gate drivers for putting any current into the motor, i.e. its a real safety switch and not just software.
If e-stop button was at fault, you would get a fault code about it in True Drive.
Before the RMA the FFB dropped off completely for a split of a second and one time I had a permanent cut-off, but without error-message. After the RMA and after months without problems the FFB ‘only’ went into low-torque mode in similar manner (maybe more mid-corner instead of entry, so higher load) and I got the 442001-errors after the same permanent crashes. So it must be the same problem, but the firmwares have different outcomes. So sorry, but I don’t buy that you don’t know what it is since the software changed to reduce the problems and I’m not the only one with this error. I just seem to be the only one that got it a 2nd time, but without getting a 2nd RMA. The only reason that keeps me from selling the SC2 Pro is: I don’t want to sell flawed product and lie about it to get a good price.
Did you get a new base? That now has similar, extremely rare problem that only manifests itself once in few weeks / months with different firmware installed?
I’m sorry but it’s really difficult to debug and find the problem without having direct access to your environment. Do you have an UPS, is the electricity in your house good, have you ruled out other technical problems/flaws with your computer.
I’m not saying there isn’t a technical problem with the base, but I’m pretty sure the base should be within GD’s limits and the problems are partly because of your own environment. So in that sense it would be safe to sell it.
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Hey guys - new SCube owner here (SC 2 Sport) - I had an issue today when joining an iRacing race where my wheel had stopped giving FFB, or at least gave very low levels. There were no indications of anything wrong, I spent ages trying different profiles and settings but no joy. Then I read this thread, turned the motor unit off at the back and back on again, and it came back.
I have a couple of Qs if anyone can help
1 - any ideas if there is anything I can do to know if this has happened? I only found out once I jumped in the car, and it was too late then (I messed up our teams 24hr stint strat 
)
2 - in terms of mitigating the issue, do I have to turn the wheel on and off every time I enter a race to be sure?
3 - is there anything I can send to a support ticket to help diagnosis?
Thanks
Sam
Oh - I’m on:
SC2 SW: 2022.5
FW 1.3.26
TD 1.3.13
Servo FW 10833
Are you a SteamVR user?
Yes sir I am - HP G2 with steam VR
There is a known issue with losing FFB in VR. As a temporary workaround, first open SteamVR manually before starting iRacing
Ok thanks but I always do this anyway
This happened after I went from one iRacing session to another, I wonder if that’s what confused things
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I was going to sell the SC2 Pro because after switching between the SC2 Pro and VRS at least three times while doing the same tests with the same combos I preferred the VRS-FFB and made better lap-times with it in AMS2. Before selling I though of installing the latest True Drive to check if everything works fine. This check went over a week without drop-outs, so my initial problems were certainly software-related, but especially the FFB has improved significantly with the July-update it seems, at least in AMS2 
Especially the texture-FFB around the center I preferred with the VRS before and now I would say, it’s slightly better with the SC2 Pro. The issue of exaggerated effects was the 2nd issue I had with the SC2 Pro, but this seems solved since annihilating all Direct Input effects to 0. I still don’t know what they are for and thought, if they are on default it just must be like that. They might improve immersion for people running a fraction of the torque, but for me with running 70+% of torque to get some decent load in the corners, it’s just distracting, slowing me down and even dangerous. Without the SC2 Pro feels very similar to the VRS, but with more power. No additional effects needed with this power 
So I’m glad to say I keep and run the SC2 Pro. It’s clearly the better product providing more power, a great QR-system, wireless support, just not necessarily the best FFB out of the box.
Set a lower slew rate if you prefer a more natural feeling. I run 2.2, but you can go as low as 0.35 which feels very rubbery
I was tinkering with the slew-rate a bit in the past, but can’t say it changed the experience noticeable. I like strong FFB and also it’s effects, but I want to keep the control over them, not the opposite. I was just testing it again with the Copa Montana in AMS2 prone to oversteer and with DirectInput-Effects the FFB can easily rip the wheel out of my hands (and/or hurt me) once the rear is stepping out from an oversteer while without I can keep the wheel under control. I get the same effect, just far more reasonable. Lower slew rate seem to me like a patch for a problem caused by stupid default settings. It’s like buying highend loudspeakers with in-build default compression to boost low-volume performance for the sake of clarity while providing some filters to cut off the compression artifacts if running a usual gain.
Lower slewrate is not a patch for default settings. The default setting is the maximum the hardware can do and a lot of people like this reactive feeling. The slew rate filter is a filter you can set based on personal preference. And before you feel anything from it, you’ll be down to about 3. Everything between 0.1 and 3 should be a very noticeable change.
It doesn’t change overall FFB, but the motor accelerates slower and this gives a feeling of less overal force because over curbs the motor sometimes doesn’t reach peak output because the motor is slower with acceleration.
Also play with the reconstruction filter. I don’t play AMS, but I like it at 3 for ACC with 333hz FFB and 5 for iRacing with 60hz feedback.
There is also a simple mode where you just have a smoothness slider to keep it easy. Maybe that’s more for you if you don’t want to tune the base to your own preferences. But I like it a lot that we have these tuning possibilities. The SC2 with a bit of tuning feels better than my DD2 where I have limited settings. I got rid of the DD2 because I couldn’t tune the harshness out of it. And even with default settings the SC2 is less harsh than the DD2.
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All my experiments with the slew rate in Kunos titles resulted in more sluggish response and somewhat artificial notchy feeling, could be just because of the contrast with this filter off.
It’s up to everyone to try it of course, but in my opinion capping motor slew rate is just a wrong way of slowing wheel down, recon, dampening, and friction can accomplish pretty much the same effect in may be more natural way.
Again just my personal take on this for balance, everyone is finding own way to “perfect” FFB.
BTW, ACC FFB refresh rate was raised from 333 to 400Hz in 1.8, you probably want to check your settings.
In True Drive nothing is there to boost. Every filter does exactly what the word stands for: filtering. Slew rate activation is cutting the ability of the Simucubes potential to deliver Newton meters per milliseconds. It can make the difference between getting hurt or not. If you think that you must have always use the maximum torque then you have to either limit the potential danger elsewhere or to live with the danger.
All I can tell is: The VRS DFP is far less spiky/more pleasant when it comes to collisions and those oversteer moments without any filters, slew rate on default and very low dampening an friction, but the same maximum torque. The oscillation is also far lower compare to the SC2 Pro and in AMS2 I don’t need to hold the wheel while standing. Until 2002.7 I also experienced better road-feel FFB in the center. At least this issue is fixed, but getting those extreme spikes under control, at least optionally, without watering down other effects is the next step I suggest improve the experience.