what about direct input effects?
thanks for the advise, but tried this already and still does not registered
I have them all set to 0. They have no influence in the game anyway. The only effect used is Spring for centring the wheel in the menu.
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I had this today. Didnāt work in normal mode but did work in VR. Had to delete the AMS2 documents folder too.
Another option that is usually mentioned is to unplug the pedals first and then try assigning.
sorry for little off topic. do you guys experience in last month of the game development all cars throw back of the car little more. I enjoy ams 1 at the moment, ams 2 was good in the moment when they started to push the game on steam with first versions of early access. now when ffb hit i feel that all cars start to be really challenging to drive but not in a realistic way. maybe setup can fix this but I am not really into setups. what are your thoughts so far?
Yes, that seemed to help me a lot before I FINALLY got steering to work in Project Cars 2. And in AMS2, I didnāt seem to have any problems getting steering working; probably because I was doing this also. I have TD stops at 420deg in all sims, and I just bounce wheel off of the stop and then reverse wheel quickly. Best of luck!
Wow, and Wow! Thanks, finally ffb is alive in my SC2 pro
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new hotfix today, ffb seems to be good again as it was before 0.9.6
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Hello, I have just installed AMS2 and I cant get any feedback at all. I managed to calibrate the wheel fine as a custom wheel (and there was plenty of resistive spring force when I was calibrating it).
I have true drive set to 50% for strength and in game strength at 100 and there is zero force, same as having the e-stop pushed (which it isnt). I also tried installing the custom feedback file, but still zero FFB or resistance of any sort in game. Any ideas?
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@NielsHeusinkveld hi Niels, just saw your yt video about ams2.
could you please share both your ingame and true drive ffb settings?
thank you very much.
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Im using these settings but I cant steer in the game.
When I want to calibrate the wheel its very heavy to turn the SC2.
Can someone explain this?
Press emergency button for easy turning in calibration. 
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I finally got my Simucube 2 in the mail and got it bolted onto my rig. I canāt assign steering axis in AMS2 and in RRRE the FFB is odd.
Can someone just TL,DR thousands of posts and tell me succinctly what I need to do to feel $2500 worth of FFB I just paid for?
It would be lovely if someone from Simucube themselves made it easy as you guys are speaking a different language. There is so much baked in assumptions about what people know you guys are talking about, where to make the changes, how FFB files work or are overwritten, etc.
Please, please help make this simple!
EDIT: Finally got steering input after changing to very low rotation and using Emergency Stop to kill FFB. However, in-game there is a grinding noise and heavy oscillation not present in RRRE.
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have you turned on high torque mode?
I have, yes. For AMS2, I got some FFB working but itās pretty vague and light but in high speed corners it loads up tremendously and also beeps when itās really loaded up. Maybe clipping?
Also, can I say I was glad when I saw it was you that replied. You seemed like you had found some good settings. Would you be willing to share the full settings you have for both True Drive and AMS2 in-game? Ideally I wouldnāt be messing with custom FFB files as I donāt really understand how to make that work in-game.
Lastly, it seems like setting strength in the True Drive software to, say, 5Nm doesnāt really mean anything. In-game both RRRE and AMS2 if set to 100% is still REALLY strong so it seems like the True Drive settings donāt mean anything? I figured if I set True Drive strength to 50% and then in-game to 100% Iād be getting 50%. If I set True Drive to 50% and in-game to 50% Iād be getting 25%. Half and then half again, right? But that doesnāt seem to be the case at all.
TD: 2020.4
Iāll share my settings asap.
True Drive max force setting lets you set the Nm expressed by the motor, the % of ffb you set ingame is a whole different thing.
think of that as a fraction in which numerator is the game % of ffb and denominator the wheel force in Nm : if you set the motor force too low and the game ffb too high, it will obviously clip because the game is asking to the motor more power than it can produce.
general rule is to keep True Drive at 100% and set the ffb into the game at the level you are comfortable with. in AMS2 for example I have True Drive at 100% which corresponds to 17.1Nm for my SC2 Sport and ingame ffb at 45%. if you do the opposite though, like I think you did, you will just get clipping signal.
the Nm in True Drive actually means everything as you can seeā¦which would be the sense in having 3 different Sc2 models each with a different peaque of Nm?
Thank You for the quick reply! Personally, I love the idea of keeping things as minimal as possible in software and then doing all the tweaking in-game. This is how my lowly G27 worked so I never had to worry about Logitech software.
I believe you play RRRE as well. Do you use similar True Drive settings for that game? Whatās been confusing thus far is how incredibly different not only each game is to each other but when I seek consensus for True Drive vs. in-game settings things seem all over the board. Three different people say the game feels great but both their TD and in-game settings vary wildly from each other.
Also, if Iām abusing this thread we can take this to private messages. Thank you for the help thus far!
answered with private message
Iāve found that adding Inertia (10-15%) on TrueDrive really helps to reduce the ābouncyā feeling Iāve had with AMS2.
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