general rule is to keep True Drive at 100% and set the ffb into the game at the level you are comfortable with.
I’ve been receiving conflicting information on this. A few (who I consider well in the know) people have suggested using the TD strength as the absolute max you want to experience. Would it really clip, as long as the in game/sim gain is at or below 100%? So far it’s been making a lot of sense for me to set TD strength to about 9-12Nm and then in sim have gain at around 50-75% depending on the the title or car. Of course sometimes I use higher for fun/workout, but normally I tend to go for the IRL car feel.
Anyway, so currently I have no reason to think TD strength would have anything to do with clipping. I look at it like an audio mixing desk. TD would be my master gain, and the sim would be the individual channel gain. If the signal was to clip, it would be because the game/sim clips. Not correct?
You are right, it wouldn’t clip as long as your set the in-game FFB correctly. Setting up the True Drive strength always to 100% is bad and dangerous thing to do - one should always consider safety before anything else.
my new profile for AMS2 (Sc2 Sport). best settings I tried so far.
ingame I only use gain at 60%, no low boost and no effects. AMS2 new_2020.08.02_19.28.ini.txt (877 Bytes)
(tested with P1 @ Hockenheim and Stock Cars @ Interlagos)
Has anyone else been experiencing the what I would consider excessive road feel in AMS2? I noticed a post about it further above, but didn’t end up with a fix. I tried the then recommended custom FFB settings file from Reiza forums, but imo this made the problem even worse (the effect more amplified). Maybe I got the wrong file…
It’s as if I’m driving over a rumble strip at about 300kmh, except I’m actually on the black part of the track at around 100kmh. I definitely do want road feel/effect, but as is, I’m getting just a very high pitch, disturbing vibration. It’s also making my SC2 Pro emit a bit of sound similar to the audio notifications (very subtle though). Some cars better than others, but the worst offender I tested with so far is the newer Dallara F3 car at Hockenheim. Taking the same thing to somewhere like Ibarra and I can’t drive at all. Then it’s like racing on cobblestone.
Tbh I would be happy with the default FFB settings in AMS2 if I could just only reduce that vibration. Only I’m not sure if it’s about reduction in “volume” or reduction in “pitch” that is needed.
I’ve got a 100% fresh install of PC and AMS2 couple weeks ago, FFB gain at 50, LFB 0, FX 0. TrueDrive settings very minimal, with strength at 48% (12Nm), Recon 5, Damping 20%, Friction 15%, DIFX off.
hi, i’ts something I can’t get rid of, tried with multiple settings combo but it seems to be hard coded in the ffb signal, so also setting just total gain with no low boost and effects, like I did, it doesn’t seem to solve the problem, which depends on car/track combo.
for me Donington seems to be made of sand paper, can’t drive on that.
Thanks for sharing! @SuperMonaco_GP, which FFB file are you using with these settings? I was using @NuScorpii’s “Heaving Messing - Detailed”, but now I find that I’m preferring @kledsen’s latest “Full Silver Raw 6.4 - Momentum Rack 4.0”. I am still trying to find the best TrueDrive settings though to pair with it though.
There are a number of configurable parameters tunable within the user-made custom profiles that should do what you want. I suggest referring to their respective authors (Reiza AMS2 forums / Custom FFB) for help with the specifics but, I can’t imagine how you wouldn’t be able to achieve the results you want.
NuScorpii or Karsten should be able to explain what parameters you need to focus on.
In some cases, what may feel like road detail may actually be engine-vibe’s or some other effect so, it’s best to consult the profile maker for the best results.
I’m using the default profile, so no custom files.
I know there are such effects in the custom files, but I still don’t understand why they are also present in the default gain ffb, since it’s the only parameter I use, like I said no lfb and no effects, just 55/60% gain.
I get very little detail using the Default-ffb, it’s too sterile for my liking (SC1). At least with the custom files, you can find one that suits you better and improve it from there. I have little doubt that the best FFB in AMS2 for me, will come from a Custom profile.
That’s likely the case but, users with wheels of many types are finding success with the myriad of custom files available. Then add to that, we can fine tune them to our preference.
Also, both Pcars2 and AMS2 seem to require more Friction & Damping than other titles in order to achieve smooth ffb. It’s likely that you’ll want to utilize more of the tuning options available to you.
It’s been over a month since i played AMS2, but as far as i can remember there is a hardware lock implementation in the game. Correct me if am wrong, but regardless of the DOR value in TD and calibration in game (as long as it is high enough), AMS will adjust the DOR specifically for each car. Of course it wont hurt setting it to 1080 (there may be cars with higher than 900 DOR), but i can’t think of a reason why this would make a difference.
you can say the same for AC calibrated at 1180° or rF2 at 1440° as suggested directly by the devs. I found that both pCars2 and AMS2 feels better at 1080°, I don’t know why.