I’m using pretty much the same settings with a few differences.
Higher gain in game since I’m running SC2 Sport
Around 3% friction and 20% inertia since I’m using a very light wheel (Ascher Racing F28)
I think your settings are a very good starting point. It should communicate clear FFB for many situations (understeer, wheels locking, tire flat spotting, etc).
hi all, so today I was on AC forum and I read this list of real steer locks for ACC cars :
I tried a bunch of different cars (all values are correct) and I felt a much more direct ffb than before, if someone could try this, I would like to hear your opinion
My opinion, not only for this sim but for all, why to waste x% of steering range/ffb scale Using 900º when car needs less than that value?
With saved profiles is very easy to change steering range per car
sure, ingame dor and td must have the same value. try it with any car on the list above, I did and felt quite a big difference, especially in the McLaren 720, which always felt a lot vague to me, and by matching the right dor I get a lot more detail and a more substantial ffb.
anyway, both ac and acc are the only sims without auto lock (except the cm option for ac)
AC is the only sim that I was able to use auto lock and that was in conjunction with CM as OEM lock was a total junk.
What “other” sims we are talking about and how do you enable that?
Have done some testing hotlapping Porsche GT4 on Suzuka using 1080 and 800 (DOR matched in TD and game).
First time switching to 800 it “felt” as if FFB got tighter with more details, but switching back to 1080 later did not feel any different. Done few more back to back runs, feels almost, if not absolutely, identical.
Not sure what to say.
Good reference chart though, thanks for posting. I’d just set to the max DOR of featured cars (900) and stop worrying.
Thats my exact feeling, more Direct force, game doesnt need to compress forces between bumpstops because bumpstops are hardcoded by TD.
I can feel some gains and eliminate the games calculations, to ease my mind. I want total control, not what game suposes is the correct DOR
R3E : set dor to 1080 in td
AMS2 : same
iracing : just set td and ingame dor to the same value
F1 2020 : same
rF2 : set dor to 1440 and “true” one parameter into controller-json file
what is left is AC, ACC and AMS1, the difference is that with AMS1 you actually can see any car’s dor and set TD accordingly, which was the case in R3E untill last updates.
May be I misunderstand. Do any of these titles feature in game bumpstop?
How setting TD and AC, ACC DOR to the same value is different? Only car specific subrange is used, virtual wheel stops after that, except in AC you can also have bumpstop in CM.
I’ll be damned, it works in R3E, swear it didn’t in the past.
The interesting part that TD actually shows full range of rotation 1080 degrees, but compressed over limited by in game bumpstops range.
Is it some trick with steering linearity?
Added thread on this on ACC forum. Hope Georgio or somebody else from the team can help.
Edit:This is getting a bit confusing tbh have 900 In true drive for every game i play (ACC, AC, R3E & F1 2020) and the only exception is RF2 1440.
but i see that some have 1080 and some 900! What is the reason for that? Expected that at least we have the same degree for the same game. Could someone shed some light here plz.
Thanks in advance.
I’m curious as to why 1200 degrees is allowed as the in game maximum even though no vehicle comes close to needing that much?
I’ve always set in game and TD to 1200 but I might get around to experimenting with individual settings for each car if you guys think it will truly make a difference.
I’ve tried the McLaren 720s at a track I know well with 480 vs 900 and there is no difference. I expect it is just placebo for anyone that feels a difference as there shouldn’t actually be one. The only range compression is the position signal coming from the wheel. The position variable is 0 - 65535, so if you are using 900 dor then you get 1 unit per ~0.013 deg, at 480 dor it’s ~ 0.007 deg. (On a 32cm wheel this is equivalent to the rim moving 0.035mm vs 0.02mm per increment.) However the FFB value is just a force signal and doesn’t lose resolution when wheel dor is altered.
So then, The force is related to the precision of the input, since our arms act as a shock absorber/damper in relation to the ingame FFB.
According to your position-VS-DOR calculations, we would be losing around 50% of the precision that I personally can notice when correcting any force transmitted by the game
No, it doesn’t work like that. The FFB is derived from the physical simulation of the interaction between the tyres, road, suspension, steering geometry etc. The steering rotation angle will be interpolated as an input to the physical simulation so you would have to have a massive difference in resolution and also be rapidly moving the wheel for any differences to have an effect. At these resolutions you wouldn’t be able to physically move the wheel rapidly enough back and forth. And as you say our arms act as natural damping so the wheel will move even less.
50% of the precision is a meaningless figure in this case. At just 10 deg deflection the difference in precision is just 0.0006%. Differences on this magnitude will have practically no effect on the output of the ffb simulation as the majority of the force output is from the road and tyre interactions, weight distributions, etc. A small difference in precision such as this will just disappear as noise in the calculation.
Placebo effect is well documented. Rigorous double blind tests are used for a reason. I’ve got some incredible USB cables that give better treble and bass reproduction for audio amps. They’d work well for preserving the fine details in the FFB signal too. Only $10000.