If you turn this on, vanilla gyro is forced off, cause it’s the same function with a bugfix for the coordinate system it uses. it still damps ffb, but the actual amount varies depending what the car’s doing as a whole instead of just related to wheelspeed. so effectively it’s still the gyro force that makes front wheels want to keep going the direction they’re pointing. but in practice it damps over/understeer forces much less now
Current recommendation is to disable vanilla Gyro (just in case), and set new one to 10% instead of default 25%.
Enjoy more alive wheel and new found details.
Spent some time today playing with new Gyro implementation.
Sooo nice, slides recovery feels absolutely natural, wheel goes the right direction itself.
Revised AC and SC2 settings below.
Not silly at all. Stereo (mod author) states that it should override old one, but still recommends to disable old (just in case). Can’t tell I could tell the difference with old on and off, but have it disabled as indicated in screenshot above. Just in case.
Try to up damping effect, this is what I did.
You can find it more natural that way. The problem with high gyro is that it greatly increases resistance in turns. Read Stereo description on RD, link is above.
In the end, it’s what works for you.
Any new gyro users? I reverted to original for the time being, seems like new implementation added some nasty, hard to overcome resistance in turns even at as low settings as 5%.
Liked wheel self alignment though.
Try some high mechanical grip DTM cars. I think Kunos Bimmer is the worst.
Then do another run with the same settings, but vanilla Gyro (new one disabled)
Andrew, i still haven’t checked the new Gyro, hope to check it this weekend. However i just wanted to say that your previous settings on Feb 20 gave me a great base to build and find my own setup and wanted to thank you for this . I made the following changes: recon @ 2, added some inertia @ 13%, ULL @ 8% and 75% damping on the Direct Input Effects (this is actually the only DI effect that works). BTW with the hardware lock always enabled. With these changes i am able to control slides better and somehow everything feels more natural. I found out that the most important change out of these with the most significant impact is the DI damping, so my piece of advice would be to play a bit with this.
Of course as always this very personal and depends also on many things including the rig, wheel diameter and weight, etc.
Mate, my opinion is that these values are too high and they should be adding a lot of noise in the FFB. Of course this depends on the TD settings and forces strength you are using.