I was hoping someone could help me with the issue I have please?
I have a 20nm Mige with an Argon control unit and the motor is not Phasing at start up due to an under voltage indicated in Granity Faults
Thanks in advance for any advice.
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I have a question regarding (product) regarding (issue).
My hardware configuration:
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Problems arise when:
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How it behaves:
-(describe system behavior)
How I would expect it to behave:
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I suspect faulty power-stage, see below link to determine if any of those are faulty. My bet is the rectifier pooped, but let’s see what you find and what Granite guys say…
Thanks very much for the fast response Beano. Brett Stiles from HRS said you’re very busy but you might be able to point me in the right direction.
I’m definitely not an electronics expert but I have tested both the slow burn fuses with the multimeter and they were fine.
I’ll have a look at the link and try to work through it.
Do you hear one or two relay clicks when you power on the unit?
Hi Mika, Thank you for responding so quickly, I just tested and hear only 1 relay click when turning on the control box.
There have been some failures with the High Voltage relay during the lifetime of the Argon product. Not a huge number, though. The failure will also cause a resistor to fail.
Thanks very much again for the prompt response Mika, and I’m sorry for the slow reply (I was asleep here in Australia)
Could I try this below that was posted by The Granity Team in another post ?
The RL2 is marked with blue in the attached picture.
It’s possible to get the relay moving again by connecting 5-9 Vdc to the coil pins multiple times. The relay is specifed to be driven with 5 VDC so if you use higher voltage, please be sure that the contact is short to prevent overheating and overloading.
The coil pins are pins A1 and A2 marked in this image:
I forgot to ask Mika, Will it be the R7 resistor that I’ll need to change if I don’t have a reading on the multi at a of resistance +/- 2 ohm ?
if it shows open circuit (off-scale high resistance), then you need to change the resistor. But the underlying cause is the relay.
Excellent, thank you !! I’m sorry I’m definitely new to electronics. Thanks for your patience.
Should the RL1 be in the NC position like the photo below. The Coil of the relay reads 800ohms but the NC reads O.L (Open) on the multimeter ?
I’ve tested the Rectifier and All diodes gave readings of 0.4 to 0.5 Volts.
I’m a noob to electronics, so I’m always more than happy to listen and learn.
I will have to consult @Esa about this, sorry for delay.
Good thread so far guys.
Maybe a good learning tool for future
The startup sequece of Argin is so, that when Enable and STO have their voltage connected, the STO-relay is switched. It will connect the HV voltage to the motor/power side of the drive.
Also, after this, the HV voltage bypass capacitors are charged trough the R7. When the voltage has stabilized and is withing parameters, the RL2 is switched into a short. This causes the second relay click.
You can try connecting the mentioned 5-9 V to the RL2 coil wires, just make sure the contact is a short one (say 0.5 sec) to prevent overheating.
Please measure the R7 again. It was originally specified to 33 Ohm, but was changed to 100 - 130 Ohm to further soften the startup procedure. Measure R7 with ±200 Ohm setting.
The RL1 (HV switching/STO relay) is connected to, that it’s normally open (NO). Your measurement is correct, as the NC (normally closed) is not the one used.
I hope I expressed myself clearly. If not, please let me know.
Thank you very much for taking the time to explain the sequence and yes it’s very clear even to someone as inexperienced as me !!
I’ll let you know how I go as soon as I have checked.
Actually there’s one error in my explanation. The STO relay needs only the STO voltage. Enable signal is required otherwise to enable the drive.
Good morning Esa,
I’m sorry for the slow reply.
Just an update, I’ve put 24vdc across the coil on the RL1 and 9vdc across the RL2 and both relays are working properly. But the R7 was open circuit and was a 5 watt 33 ohm resistor.
So clearly, and more than likely the original R7 resistor, would you suggest to change mine to a 5 watt 100 or 133 ohm considering mine is a 2014 manufacture on the control box ?
Thanks again for your help,
Quick update, R7 5W 100Ohm Resistors arrived today, installed, tested OK !! Yahoo !!! All working again, So I’d like to thank the Granite Devices Team for helping a Technical Idiot Like Me fix the problem.