Yes, I know it’s a known kind of “non-issue”, and ultimately it’s down to the high precision of the engineering on the SC QR system.
Sometimes I get the feeling that I’m possibly exerting too much force to remove the wheel and have some concerns about the wheelbase bearings, although I’m sure they’re way stronger than I am.
However I’ve seen it suggested that treating the QR (both sides) with a dry PTFE lubricant, like Heusinkveld recommend for their pedals (https://www.wd40.com/products/dry-lube/), can help make the removal of wheels easier.
The question is, is this a good idea, and would it be a recommended manufacturer solution?
If not then fine, I’ll stick (pun intended) to using brute force, unless there’s a more suitable solution.
This is a good question and I have wondered about it, as well.
I can’t speak to the technical implications of using PTFE (or similar coating) however, the friction will naturally be reduced over time, as the contact surfaces wear-in. Still, it would be nice to reduce the force required for removal until that happens.
I had a very stiff QR for which I did not apply any lubricant or anything else. What helped in my case for unknown reason was the lock pin screw adjustment. Maybe it affects the QR ever so slightly so that it’s not binding so much anymore.
If you look down into the two outer holes (top of Servo-side QR), you’ll see tensioner screw heads. I loosened them by roughly 1/4 turn, and it seems to have reduced the force required to remove the wheel. I imagine the Pin tension system utilizes springs(?)
Of course, you don’t want them so loose as to allow the pin to fall out at any point so, use caution and check for some tension (on the pin) with wheel-side removed. Nor should there be any movement of the wheel side QR with pin inserted.
Just wondering if there’s any official manufacturer feedback on treating the respective QR interfaces with a dry PTFE type lubricant.
I didn’t really want to loosen the pin retainer screws as removing the wheels is not really an issue, except that it could be smoother. Plus I’d rather have an absolutely solid connection between the wheel and wheelbase without risking the pin falling out. However thanks for the suggestion @Nrde.
If you have difficulties removing a wheel you can try loosening the screw just a tiny bit, it really doesn’t affect the screw tightness that much. I haven’t thought even that it could be dropping off by itself.
What I mean is that the tolerance seems to be so small that a tiny change can make releasing the wheel buttery smooth or a frustrating struggle without any other noticeable change.
I put a dab of superlube ptfe synthetic grease on the two ears of the wheelbase side QR 2 years ago and it has permanently solved any sticking. The dry ptfe worked as well but seemed to need reapply every few months.
Giving this a try. We’ll see. It does look more “greasy” than the WD-40 Specialist 2209 Dry Lube I tried before. It has a consistency which makes me think it’ll stick around and won’t dry out.
Nothing, I swear bro! I just use a firm grip, that is all. You shouldn’t do it on the wheel but on the QR itself. By holding the wheel you won’t pull it straight up, more up and sideways. Which is not good. You can turn on the sound, you gonna here how easy it comes out
It’s not that classic lifting…I have the QR secure bolt attached in a way that I can pull it out, and while doing it gently, can feel the notch. All I do is holding the QR wheel side part and the the DD side. What you can try is: fix it with your hand and give a little slap with the other hand. To make it easier try it upside down
