USB Connection issues - possible fix

I do not know if this will help anyone, but this link explains how you can ensure Windows does not ‘suspend’ or ‘sleep’ any of your USB ports.

I’m not suggesting this is a fix to any of those issues where your wheel seems to drop out, or you seem to lose FFB, but it is another thing once you have done it, you can cross off the list as a possible cause.

I use the ‘balanced’ power profile in Windows as I have a relatively small form factor PC, so heat can be an issue if I do not monitor it. Changing these settings within the balanced profile should not lead to a significant increase in heat, but may help prevent USB devices from losing connection.

Even if you use the ‘full power’ profile it may be something worth checking.

1 Like

BTW, the options mentioned in the link above don’t seem to be available in my version of Win11, but I found a command to enter in a terminal window that seems to do the same job, but you do not seem to get any feed back when you enter it, however if you get it slightly wrong you get an error message.

It should be in the advanced options of the windows power profile. I have it in my Windows 11.

Ha just replied this on your other post yeah definitely check that as mine has miraculously been turned back on by a windows update



These are all the options I have access to via advanced settings. I have to use control panel to access these.

I use a maximum plan and it is on there. Is it possible to use a maximum plan yet adjust it accordingly?

It seems that I have few power options available to me on this system.

It is highly possible that it is due to me using an Intel Nuc 13 Extreme, rather than a full form factor system. That is not to say that this isn’t rather high spec, but apart from space for three NVMe drives, you can add two 3.5 inch SATA SSDs, or one 5.25 SATA drive.

I have an NVIDIA 4090 card installed, but there is no space for anything else, and although you can overclock an i9-13900k cpu heat is an issue so it’s probably not recommended, and also the power supply is limited in output, and cannot be upgraded either, although it is perfectly adequate for running what I have installed at stock speeds.

Which let’s face it with iRacing does fine, as I can get 144hz most of the time with ALL the bling turned on, and it really only drops lower at the start of a race in a big pack in front of large grandstands.