I just can not figure out how to do this…
My problem:
iRacing is my go to sim. So in True Drive I have my torque settings at 100% (25Nm). But here comes the part that I cant seem to understand:
Should I have the in-game Wheel Force set at 25Nm and ONLY adjust with the Max Force? Or should I set the Wheel Force setting at a lower value and ALSO adjust the Max Force??
Ofcourse I want the most details out of the base without breaking my hands.
Wheel force does not affect FFB in any way. It just sets a maximum level to set the force, IF you use automatic FFB adjustment checkbox in iRacing. The wheel force slider doesn’t even save.
Only use max force slider. Click the “Strength” text label in iRacing to set it also to show in Nm values.
And filters are there to adjust and accentuate this force, not to alter FFB, correct?
Thank you sir 
Just what I needed to know 
On the iRacing forums is a great article about FFB =).
Thanks for the advice 
I gotta say, I switched from Fanatec to Simucube just recently. And OH-MY-GOD what a difference 
I mean, its just rediculus how much better the Simucube feels. All the details I now feel and how quick this thing is. My passion for simracing multiplied several times over with this product! My one and only regret is that I didnt buy Simucube to begin with
While there are several ways to set-up force at the wheel when it coms to iRacing which I do explain in the
Thread.
The couple things of note with your question is Max Force is what actually controls your force at the wheel. The Number indicated is the Force of the Telemetry that the iRacing system allows to be recreated so the higher the number the more forces get recreated before clipping occurs. The Larger the number the weaker the forces at the wheel as you are increasing the scope of force recreation… The Lower the number the higher the forces as you are closing up the window of recreation and depending on the car you can create clipping (losing information from the car) i.e. Max force is set to 25Nm but the car outputs 35Nm, 10Nm is clipped from the singnal.
Wheel Force, (Though named somewhat correctly) does get very confusing to people but that setting really does NOTHING until you need it. That setting Limits how low the Max Force Number can go or how much you can close down the window of force. This was implemented by iRacing in part due to the Full Strength challenges highlighting an issue based on the way iRacing translates force and issue with the misunderstanding of how forces are translated… Without this setting it is Possible to overdrive the telemetry with a direct drive wheel if you do not understand what is happening…
The main thing was that when you have a wheel set to output 25Nm such as the SC2 Pro at 100% and you use the “auto” setup function in tracing with a car such as the MX-5 this will happen very easily… the MX-5 at full tilt on a track will only put out about 15Nm maximum in telemetry which is of course 10Nm less than the 25Nm your wheel will put out… the Game outputs signal based on % so if you have the Max force set at 15Nm the game will output 100%… but your wheelbase is set to output 25Nm at 100%… so you can see the issue… the MX5 is saying Im maxing out at 15Nm but once it gets to your wheel that 15Nm now has become 25Nm or 166% of the actual telemetry. Over driven telemetry gets VERY unstable.
Setting the wheel force however to the proper number (after Driver % adjustments) just stops this… as if you set Wheelforce to 25, then hit “auto” the Max force will set itself to 25Nm regardless of the fact that the MX5 really only outputs 15Nm… so now at the MX5 15 nm the game is outputting 60% which translates to 60% of the output of the SC2 at 25Nm or exactly 15Nm or 1:1 with the car output telemetry…
This situation can happen with ANY car that has a max force output lower than your wheelbase force… Though any above that number won’t make a difference. So in essence if you always have your Max Force number HIGHER than your actual wheelbase output Nm the WheelForce number could be 0 or 1 and it won’t mean or do a thing.
If there’s “one correct way” to do it, I’m pretty sure it’s this:
That would cover most of it HOWEVER one thing is being missed and that is the possibility of clipping… If you are fine with clipping and for most people who run lower at the wheel strength the above will work well… If however the F Meter is going red often then you have to add in.
figuring out your specific output, possibly using auto (or) increasing max force until you see no more (or very limited) clipping (red on the F Meter), taking your new Max force number and your OLD Specific output and figuring out what your new True Drive Output strength level should be so you get no clipping at the power you like…
There are those that are fine with clipping as long as the power of the wheel does not exceed what they want it to (i.e. the above step #1) but at the same time Most people don’t know what that limit of force is that they would want.